|
Post by Jason Summer on Apr 17, 2023 15:15:11 GMT
None of the tutorials I've read or watched revealed any information on what kind of belts to buy or how many were spent in the process, so I just went with aluminum oxide. I bought one set that had all the grits I needed, but only one of each, and they all feel like 1000 now, they wore down so fast. How many do I need for each grit? Is there a better material I should be buying my belts made out of?
|
|
|
Post by larason2 on Apr 17, 2023 17:02:32 GMT
Sounds about right. Aluminum oxide wears fast, but it is less likely to heat up too much and blue a blade. I'd just get more of the ones you are getting!
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Apr 17, 2023 19:33:22 GMT
What type of machine? Not that is of great importance, just curious. Never have tried an aluminium oxide belt, but the stone I used [pastense] wore quickly. I won’t have another. It is not possible to predict a belt’s life as there variables such as the amount of metal removed and hardness for example. I use a Work Sharp KO and have satisfactory used their belts. The last order I tried some cheaper belts from Amazon listed as Tonmp 18 PCS Knife Sharpener Sanding Belts, 3/4 x 12 Inch Replacement Sander Belt Kit for Work Sharp Knife Ken Onion Edition Sharpener Tool (18 Pack). I haven’t used them enough to give a fair appraisal, but have found no issues so far. I found that kitchen knives had little effect on the KO’s belt’s longevity. Save those worn-out belts, especially of fine grit. They are a cheap source for rubbing a polishing compound on in order to strop. Though I prefer doing this by hand on a leather strap.
|
|
Alan Schiff
Registered
Manufacturers and Vendors
Posts: 464
|
Post by Alan Schiff on Apr 17, 2023 19:58:19 GMT
As said, it's hard to say how many you "should" be using. Aluminum oxide is the cheapest, least durable of the common belt types. Zirconium (they are green) wears better but is somewhat more expensive. There are numerous youtube videos about types of belt and quality. But the hardness of the workpiece, how much material you're removing, and other variables all come into play. Also make sure you are using the right grit for the job. For bulk material removal, use a 36 or 40 grit belt, then move up to higher grits when you don't need to remove as much material.
One thing to note is that you may not be holding the piece hard enough against the belt. I don't recall exactly how it works, but basically it's like the grit is layered, so you need to have enough friction to remove the top, worn layer and reveal the sharper layer underneath. I ran into the problem when I first got my 2x72 grinder, and my belts weren't lasting very long.
|
|
|
Post by Jason Summer on Apr 19, 2023 21:23:40 GMT
I just bought a cheap 1x30 belt grinder from Lowe's
|
|
|
Post by mrbadexample on Apr 20, 2023 10:18:04 GMT
Aluminum oxide on a single speed 1x30 will wear out very quickly. On the plus side, those worn belts still work for polishing up edges.
|
|
RE:Wrap Studio
Manufacturer/Vendor
A wise man learns from his mistakes, a wiser man learns from the mistakes of others.
Posts: 89
|
Post by RE:Wrap Studio on Apr 29, 2023 1:16:07 GMT
Am I behind the times? I still use whetstones to sharpen. I'm too afraid that I would ruin a sword using a belt grinder
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Apr 29, 2023 3:21:01 GMT
Am I behind the times? I still use whetstones to sharpen. I'm too afraid that I would ruin a sword using a belt grinder I assume you are talking about katanas? Early on, with my katana I tried to sharpen with an Arkansas stone. I made only two passes and stopped. I discovered that the side of my katana was not flat although it appeared so. Each pass left a streak down the blade’s side. They remained there for at least six months, probably longer, until I learned a method that I use to this day. That is sandpaper with a compressible backing. I’ve since acquired a Work Sharp, but there is no way will I use that on a katana.
|
|
RE:Wrap Studio
Manufacturer/Vendor
A wise man learns from his mistakes, a wiser man learns from the mistakes of others.
Posts: 89
|
Post by RE:Wrap Studio on Apr 29, 2023 4:06:46 GMT
Am I behind the times? I still use whetstones to sharpen. I'm too afraid that I would ruin a sword using a belt grinder I assume you are talking about katanas? Early on, with my katana I tried to sharpen with an Arkansas stone. I made only two passes and stopped. I discovered that the side of my katana was not flat although it appeared so. Each pass left a streak down the blade’s side. They remained there for at least six months, probably longer, until I learned a method that I use to this day. That is sandpaper with a compressible backing. I’ve since acquired a Work Sharp, but there is no way will I use that on a katana. I ordered stones from Namikawa Heibei and have been giving those a shot. ive been practicing on my "throwaway" katana. a 1060 steel one didnt pay much for. its a razor right now. i use 1000/2000/3000/5000 grit regular whetstones usually. ive been sharpening knives with whetstones since i was 12 i have never used machinery for any sharpening. Recently started with swords, Worksharps are amazing for anything not katana
|
|
|
Post by Voltan on Apr 29, 2023 15:07:52 GMT
|
|
|
Post by larason2 on Apr 30, 2023 5:02:06 GMT
You have to use the right technique to polish a katana with stones. The curved edge (with niku) is actually done in 6 parts. I also purchased the water stones from Namikawa Heibei, though I've not used them yet. I also bought "The Art of Japanese Sword Polishing." That's highly recommended if you want to try to polish a Katana with stones. Each step has advice on how to go about it, and what stones/material to use. After reading the book from cover to cover, I feel comfortable enough to try it on a reproduction, and the kit I got comes with pretty much everything (I just have to start by making the bench and the stone holder!). I've used machinery to sharpen, but I switched to wetstones and I won't go back. I feel like I have so much more control on a stone, and I much prefer how knives and tools with a convex edge cut (especially chisels).
|
|
RE:Wrap Studio
Manufacturer/Vendor
A wise man learns from his mistakes, a wiser man learns from the mistakes of others.
Posts: 89
|
Post by RE:Wrap Studio on May 1, 2023 2:40:51 GMT
You have to use the right technique to polish a katana with stones. The curved edge (with niku) is actually done in 6 parts. I also purchased the water stones from Namikawa Heibei, though I've not used them yet. I also bought "The Art of Japanese Sword Polishing." That's highly recommended if you want to try to polish a Katana with stones. Each step has advice on how to go about it, and what stones/material to use. After reading the book from cover to cover, I feel comfortable enough to try it on a reproduction, and the kit I got comes with pretty much everything (I just have to start by making the bench and the stone holder!). I've used machinery to sharpen, but I switched to wetstones and I won't go back. I feel like I have so much more control on a stone, and I much prefer how knives and tools with a convex edge cut (especially chisels). i will order that book. i appreciate the insight! yeah i would never attempt to polish anything other than reproductions lol. i will leave the antique nihonto to actual Togishi
|
|