Deepeeka Gunther Type H/I
Apr 11, 2023 17:15:39 GMT
Post by madirish on Apr 11, 2023 17:15:39 GMT
I had wanted to buy a Viking era sword at a lower price point for some project work (learn to rework the hilt and hilt wrap, make a scabbard, try sharpening, etc) and display. I had purchased a Deepeeka Hersir a few weeks back from KoA (reviewed in another thread) and wound up sending it back as the blade was twisted in the plane of the flat of the blade and the edges were an uneven undulating mess. Other than that (and being very heavy/unwieldy) I like the Hersir. I decided to give a shot to the “New and Improved” line of products on the Deepeeka site and chose the Gunther Type H/I Ulfbehrt Sword to see if it would be any better than the Hersir. I purchased the “R” type blade unsharpened.
Full Disclosure and Dealer Interaction
Purchased from Medieval Collectibles at the full price. Unfortunately, MC has a pretty high markup compared to other sites like KoA and Reliks, so I paid a good $30-$50 above what those sites charge. Unfortunately MC was the only site I could find it in stock. Online ordering was simple and the turnaround for delivery was quick (ordered on Sunday evening, it shipped Monday afternoon).
Initial Impressions
Sword arrived in an oversized box filled with plastic air pillow packing surrounding an unopened Deepeeka box labelled with the Deepeeka part number, etc. Appeared to be the box the sword was shipped from Deepeeka to Medieval Collectibles in. It was clear there was no inspection at Medieval Collectibles.
Inside the Deepeeka box was the sword (wrapped in plastic wrap) and the scabbard (wrapped in paper) twist tied in place.
Removing the plastic, the sword was coated in a thick, potent smelling oil. That scent remains in the leather wrap after cleaning. Scabbard was delivered in good shape.
About what I expected just popping it out of the box and casual lookover. Guard and hilt are less well machined than the Hersir. Everything felt tight and the sword rang nicely when struck.
![]()
Stats
Mass w/scabbard: 1813.8g
Mass w/o scabbard: 1372.3g
OAL: 955.7mm (37-5/8”)
Blade Length: 789mm (31-1/16")
POB: approx 146mm (approx 5-3/4”")
Fuller Length: 738.2mm (29-1/16") matched on both sides
Guard max width: 97.9mm (3.855”)
Guard Thickness @ center of blade: 16.8mm (.661")
Grip Length: 100.8mm (3.97")
Grip Width at Guard: 36.7mm (1.4455") - also the max width
Grip Width at Pommel: 28.8mm (1.133")
Grip Thickness: 22.5mm (0.885")
Max Pommel Width: 83.9mm (3.305")
Max Pommel Thickness: 27.46mm (1.081")
Pommel height: approx 50.8mm (2")
Blade Width at Base: 59.51mm (2.343")
Blade Width at 1/4 length: 54.33mm (2.139")
Blade Width at 1/3 Length" 52.36mm (2.0615")
Blade Width at 1/2 Length: 49.29mm (1.9405")
Blade Width at 2/3 Length: 45.34mm (1.785")
Blade Width at 3/4 Length: 44.12mm (1.737")
Blade Width at 2” from tip: 38.81mm (1.528”)
Blade Width at 1" from Tip: 27.85mm (1.0965")
*Blade Thickness at Base: 5.00/4.69mm (.197”/.1845”)
*Blade Thickness at 1/4 length: 4.49/4.08mm (.1769/.1605”)
*Blade Thickness at 1/3 Length: 4.43/4.05mm (.1745/.1595”)
*Blade Thickness at 1/2 Length: 4.21/4.2mm (.1655/.168”)
*Blade Thickness at 2/3 Length: 3.99/3.91mm (0.157/0.154")
*Blade Thickness at 3/4 Length: 3.76/3.61mm (0.148”/0.142”)
Blade Thickness at 2” from tip: 4.76mm (0.1875”)
Blade Thickness at 1" from Tip: 4.75mm (0.187")
*Note: thickness is slightly different when measured on either side of fuller
Components:
Scabbard:
Sword rattles in the scabbard like a maraca. Leather is well applied and the seam is sewed pretty straight and true. Color is a bit variable, but looks good. Unlike the Hersir, there is no metal chape on this model, but a leather “chape” with a couple of cord wrapped risers under it. Unlike the photos online, the belt loop is a lighter color wood than the scabbard, which I like. The scabbard holds the sword tightly (there is a bit of a gasket in the mouth of the scabbard) and it can be held upside down and shaken, but holds securely. Not sure if it is wood core or not…can’t really see down the throat and didn’t have a pick handy. Scabbard is 3.5oz lighter on the Gunther than the Hersir.
Pommel/Upper Guard
Pommel is a bit simpler than that of the Hersir (with no wire inlay between the upper guard and the pommel) and is more crudely machined than the Hersir example I had. Definitely more crude on the narrow sides angling to the point of the pommel and the gap between the upper guard and pommel is variable and a little ragged. The stats on KoA and other sites say that the pommel is peened on, but it is not clear that it is so. On the Hersir, the very end of the pommel was milled flat and there was an apparent peen. On the Gunther, the pommel comes to a point and there is no peen. I sent a note to Deepeeka asking how it is secured and Gagan replied with a video of a different model being made, but said it was the same for the Gunther. In the video, the tang is threaded and a nut is used to secure the upper guard to the tang. Then the triangular pommel is tapped into place with pins passing through the upper guard. Those pins are peened in place, but the video doesn’t show it.
This was a bit of a disappointment as ad copy on KoA, Medieval Collectibles, and others say the pommel is peened. KoA goes so far as to say the upper guard is peened on then the pommel applied. Not knowing what the structure of the underside of the pommel looks like, I’m hoping that it would limit the nut from backing off.
Grip
Grip is the same flattened oval profile throughout, with slightly diminishing height of the oval from the grip to the pommel. Wrapped in a brown leather band with one little tail of it coming undone. A drop of superglue should remedy it. It is comfortable
\
Lower Guard
The guard is simpler in shape and is less thick than that of the Hersir. Where the Hersir was ground with a distinct ridge running midline in the thickness of the guard, the Gunther is smoother and more rounded. Little bit of pitting and staining, but nothing major. It is definitely misaligned with respect to the blade and pommel (you can see it in the pictures below). The gap between the blade and guard is a bit wider on one side, but it is more than that, like the slot in the guard was cut in the wrong place and not aligned from apex to apex of the oval shape of the guard. black epoxy on the blade. No epoxy coming out of the gap. There is a cheater leather gasket supplied with the sword to cover the gap.
Blade
The blade on the Gunther is much better than the blade I received on the Hersir in terms of shape. There are, of course, plenty of ripples and hammer marks, but the edge is markedly straighter than the Hersir. As with the Hersir, though, the Gunther blade was also twisted in the last third of the blade, though not much compared to the Hersir. Not noticeable unless you are looking for it.
The fullers end at the same length and both start cleanly under the guard. Fuller edges are pretty crisp and straight, with some minor variation with the hammer marks. As noted in the dimensions above, the blade thickness was thinner on one side of the fuller compared to the other for the length of the blade. From the base of the blade to the fuller there was about 1-1.25mm of taper, but swelled up a little bit again after the taper as there is an anachronistic central ridge to the point of the blade after the fuller.
The finish of the blade was a little worse than that of the Hersir. It has a bit shinier finish and, though it appeared never to have been opened previously, there was a fair amount of fine scratching perpendicular to the edges, not a big deal. Grind lines are evident in the fuller. The polish near the base of the blade was not consistent with the rest of the blade as there were obvious coarser polish marks perpendicular to the edge. Again, none of this is a big deal.
The +ULFBEHR+T simulated inlay is not as dark as the design on the obverse side and whatever is used to color the inlay stains the entire blade in a rectangle around the inlay. So, the color is not just in the etched/engraved section of the inlay, but also on the surface of the blade.
At some point, I’ll probably try to polish the surface in those areas as it looks crappy. A little test rub with Scotchbrite did seem to affect it. not how much was removed to left and below the simulated inlay.
All that being said, this sword is about 6 oz lighter than the Hersir and feels so much better in the hand. Again, this blade is unsharpened and has not been cut tested.
![]()
Conclusion
After returning the Hersir I had previously bought from KoA, I wanted to try another low cost Viking sword for some project work. I looked to the “new and improved” line from Deepeeka with the Gunther Type H/I. I paid a premium for the Gunther since I used a higher markup provider as it was the only source with stock.
I would call it a little underwhelming in terms of being “new and improved” since I found the fit and finish to be inferior to old Hersir model. The Gunther, however, is lighter and feels much better than the Hersir and the blade on this example was made much better and it rings like a bell. I really do like the simplicity and clean lines of the Type H hilt furnishings.
Overall, the fit and finish are what can be expected from a budget sword (rough, but ready) and I am happy enough with it for the purposes that I bought it for. The included scabbard looks decent enough and does it’s job well.
Pros
-Budget price
-Nice overall design
-Includes a functioning, visually appealing scabbard
-Furnishings solid and tight
-overall design is simple and appealing
-Lighter blade than other Deepeeka designs, feels better in the hand
-Some distal taper
Cons
-Blade twisted out of flat for last 1/3 of blade
-Misaligned lower guard
-Staining on blade surface from simulated inlay
-Rattly scabbard
-Pommel roughly machined
Bottom Line
For costume, reenactment, stage, or even something to drill with, I would still recommend this sword. I can’t make any recommendations re: test cutting as I do not have a sharpened example.
Full Disclosure and Dealer Interaction
Purchased from Medieval Collectibles at the full price. Unfortunately, MC has a pretty high markup compared to other sites like KoA and Reliks, so I paid a good $30-$50 above what those sites charge. Unfortunately MC was the only site I could find it in stock. Online ordering was simple and the turnaround for delivery was quick (ordered on Sunday evening, it shipped Monday afternoon).
Initial Impressions
Sword arrived in an oversized box filled with plastic air pillow packing surrounding an unopened Deepeeka box labelled with the Deepeeka part number, etc. Appeared to be the box the sword was shipped from Deepeeka to Medieval Collectibles in. It was clear there was no inspection at Medieval Collectibles.
Inside the Deepeeka box was the sword (wrapped in plastic wrap) and the scabbard (wrapped in paper) twist tied in place.
Removing the plastic, the sword was coated in a thick, potent smelling oil. That scent remains in the leather wrap after cleaning. Scabbard was delivered in good shape.
About what I expected just popping it out of the box and casual lookover. Guard and hilt are less well machined than the Hersir. Everything felt tight and the sword rang nicely when struck.
Stats
Mass w/scabbard: 1813.8g
Mass w/o scabbard: 1372.3g
OAL: 955.7mm (37-5/8”)
Blade Length: 789mm (31-1/16")
POB: approx 146mm (approx 5-3/4”")
Fuller Length: 738.2mm (29-1/16") matched on both sides
Guard max width: 97.9mm (3.855”)
Guard Thickness @ center of blade: 16.8mm (.661")
Grip Length: 100.8mm (3.97")
Grip Width at Guard: 36.7mm (1.4455") - also the max width
Grip Width at Pommel: 28.8mm (1.133")
Grip Thickness: 22.5mm (0.885")
Max Pommel Width: 83.9mm (3.305")
Max Pommel Thickness: 27.46mm (1.081")
Pommel height: approx 50.8mm (2")
Blade Width at Base: 59.51mm (2.343")
Blade Width at 1/4 length: 54.33mm (2.139")
Blade Width at 1/3 Length" 52.36mm (2.0615")
Blade Width at 1/2 Length: 49.29mm (1.9405")
Blade Width at 2/3 Length: 45.34mm (1.785")
Blade Width at 3/4 Length: 44.12mm (1.737")
Blade Width at 2” from tip: 38.81mm (1.528”)
Blade Width at 1" from Tip: 27.85mm (1.0965")
*Blade Thickness at Base: 5.00/4.69mm (.197”/.1845”)
*Blade Thickness at 1/4 length: 4.49/4.08mm (.1769/.1605”)
*Blade Thickness at 1/3 Length: 4.43/4.05mm (.1745/.1595”)
*Blade Thickness at 1/2 Length: 4.21/4.2mm (.1655/.168”)
*Blade Thickness at 2/3 Length: 3.99/3.91mm (0.157/0.154")
*Blade Thickness at 3/4 Length: 3.76/3.61mm (0.148”/0.142”)
Blade Thickness at 2” from tip: 4.76mm (0.1875”)
Blade Thickness at 1" from Tip: 4.75mm (0.187")
*Note: thickness is slightly different when measured on either side of fuller
Components:
Scabbard:
Sword rattles in the scabbard like a maraca. Leather is well applied and the seam is sewed pretty straight and true. Color is a bit variable, but looks good. Unlike the Hersir, there is no metal chape on this model, but a leather “chape” with a couple of cord wrapped risers under it. Unlike the photos online, the belt loop is a lighter color wood than the scabbard, which I like. The scabbard holds the sword tightly (there is a bit of a gasket in the mouth of the scabbard) and it can be held upside down and shaken, but holds securely. Not sure if it is wood core or not…can’t really see down the throat and didn’t have a pick handy. Scabbard is 3.5oz lighter on the Gunther than the Hersir.
Pommel/Upper Guard
Pommel is a bit simpler than that of the Hersir (with no wire inlay between the upper guard and the pommel) and is more crudely machined than the Hersir example I had. Definitely more crude on the narrow sides angling to the point of the pommel and the gap between the upper guard and pommel is variable and a little ragged. The stats on KoA and other sites say that the pommel is peened on, but it is not clear that it is so. On the Hersir, the very end of the pommel was milled flat and there was an apparent peen. On the Gunther, the pommel comes to a point and there is no peen. I sent a note to Deepeeka asking how it is secured and Gagan replied with a video of a different model being made, but said it was the same for the Gunther. In the video, the tang is threaded and a nut is used to secure the upper guard to the tang. Then the triangular pommel is tapped into place with pins passing through the upper guard. Those pins are peened in place, but the video doesn’t show it.
This was a bit of a disappointment as ad copy on KoA, Medieval Collectibles, and others say the pommel is peened. KoA goes so far as to say the upper guard is peened on then the pommel applied. Not knowing what the structure of the underside of the pommel looks like, I’m hoping that it would limit the nut from backing off.
Grip
Grip is the same flattened oval profile throughout, with slightly diminishing height of the oval from the grip to the pommel. Wrapped in a brown leather band with one little tail of it coming undone. A drop of superglue should remedy it. It is comfortable
\Lower Guard
The guard is simpler in shape and is less thick than that of the Hersir. Where the Hersir was ground with a distinct ridge running midline in the thickness of the guard, the Gunther is smoother and more rounded. Little bit of pitting and staining, but nothing major. It is definitely misaligned with respect to the blade and pommel (you can see it in the pictures below). The gap between the blade and guard is a bit wider on one side, but it is more than that, like the slot in the guard was cut in the wrong place and not aligned from apex to apex of the oval shape of the guard. black epoxy on the blade. No epoxy coming out of the gap. There is a cheater leather gasket supplied with the sword to cover the gap.
Blade
The blade on the Gunther is much better than the blade I received on the Hersir in terms of shape. There are, of course, plenty of ripples and hammer marks, but the edge is markedly straighter than the Hersir. As with the Hersir, though, the Gunther blade was also twisted in the last third of the blade, though not much compared to the Hersir. Not noticeable unless you are looking for it.
The fullers end at the same length and both start cleanly under the guard. Fuller edges are pretty crisp and straight, with some minor variation with the hammer marks. As noted in the dimensions above, the blade thickness was thinner on one side of the fuller compared to the other for the length of the blade. From the base of the blade to the fuller there was about 1-1.25mm of taper, but swelled up a little bit again after the taper as there is an anachronistic central ridge to the point of the blade after the fuller.
The finish of the blade was a little worse than that of the Hersir. It has a bit shinier finish and, though it appeared never to have been opened previously, there was a fair amount of fine scratching perpendicular to the edges, not a big deal. Grind lines are evident in the fuller. The polish near the base of the blade was not consistent with the rest of the blade as there were obvious coarser polish marks perpendicular to the edge. Again, none of this is a big deal.
The +ULFBEHR+T simulated inlay is not as dark as the design on the obverse side and whatever is used to color the inlay stains the entire blade in a rectangle around the inlay. So, the color is not just in the etched/engraved section of the inlay, but also on the surface of the blade.
At some point, I’ll probably try to polish the surface in those areas as it looks crappy. A little test rub with Scotchbrite did seem to affect it. not how much was removed to left and below the simulated inlay.
All that being said, this sword is about 6 oz lighter than the Hersir and feels so much better in the hand. Again, this blade is unsharpened and has not been cut tested.
Conclusion
After returning the Hersir I had previously bought from KoA, I wanted to try another low cost Viking sword for some project work. I looked to the “new and improved” line from Deepeeka with the Gunther Type H/I. I paid a premium for the Gunther since I used a higher markup provider as it was the only source with stock.
I would call it a little underwhelming in terms of being “new and improved” since I found the fit and finish to be inferior to old Hersir model. The Gunther, however, is lighter and feels much better than the Hersir and the blade on this example was made much better and it rings like a bell. I really do like the simplicity and clean lines of the Type H hilt furnishings.
Overall, the fit and finish are what can be expected from a budget sword (rough, but ready) and I am happy enough with it for the purposes that I bought it for. The included scabbard looks decent enough and does it’s job well.
Pros
-Budget price
-Nice overall design
-Includes a functioning, visually appealing scabbard
-Furnishings solid and tight
-overall design is simple and appealing
-Lighter blade than other Deepeeka designs, feels better in the hand
-Some distal taper
Cons
-Blade twisted out of flat for last 1/3 of blade
-Misaligned lower guard
-Staining on blade surface from simulated inlay
-Rattly scabbard
-Pommel roughly machined
Bottom Line
For costume, reenactment, stage, or even something to drill with, I would still recommend this sword. I can’t make any recommendations re: test cutting as I do not have a sharpened example.
