|
Post by squirrel502 on Feb 14, 2023 19:41:04 GMT
So long story short, I wanted to blue the guard/pummel on my Albion Crecy....but despite trying 3 times...it still comes out looking pretty bad. And since I cannot take the furniture off to hot blue them...and since cold bluing is questionable at best...I was thinking about alternative options. Some people like the mustard route (and I might give this a try)...but I was also thinking about cerakoting the metal (air dry veriaty). My only other options is to take off the bluing that I put on and flitz/buff the bajesus outa it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2023 20:24:28 GMT
My suggestion would be your last option. I have two swords that I would like to antique just a little but it's very hard to work on the complete sword that has had the tang peened, especially a high dollar sword that often has a very professional peen on it. Let alone if it is already sharp. I would buy a bottle of the Birchwood Caseys bluing remover and clean it up and finish with a satin finish, while not easy, looks good when offset by the highly polished blade. The cold bluing works great on small pieces, gun sights, control levers on a handgun, but not on anything the size of a guard or pommel- it's almost impossible to get an even finish.
|
|
|
Post by cerberus1426 on Feb 16, 2023 3:55:35 GMT
Having tried gunblue to i was very disappointed. To add a question to this does mustard actually darken the blade up?
|
|
Ouroboros
Member
Imperial, Mysterious In Amorous Array
Posts: 570
|
Post by Ouroboros on Feb 16, 2023 4:49:32 GMT
Hey! The Levin Lance has some good results with blueing using a paste product. I have some to try but havent prepped the sword yet so cant advise personally. Check out this thread here. Perhaps a blueing paste would do the job where a cold bluing liquid fails. Prep the metal well, multiple coats are best. Best of luck Ouro
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2023 1:11:46 GMT
I had never heard of bluing in a paste form. That would end the steaking that is often the case with the liquid, the color on that helmet looks very even.
|
|
|
Post by eastman on Feb 17, 2023 1:29:55 GMT
The Birchwood Casey paste is pretty good. Make sure everything is de-greased well (gloves are a really good idea both to prevent fingerprint oils from messing up the finish and also because it is fairly nasty stuff). Multiple coats will always be needed for a good even dark finish.
|
|
|
Post by davh on Feb 26, 2023 22:33:18 GMT
Hi, If you ever decide to go down the route of removing the peen and disassembling the sword, you may want to get in contact with Albion to see how their peen can be removed as it is flush with the pommel. I imagine there is a recess in the pommel, and they hammer the peen flat and grind the pommel smooth. I have not had much success browning or bluing the guard and pommel without disassembly as getting into where the grip meets the hilt and pommel is difficult. Here is an example that produces a blacksmith-like finish using only a torch and vegetable oil, creating a fingernail-proof finish. Very rustic if you are not a fan of the smooth uniform finish of hot bluing. Here is a sword I'm refurbishing. The final look is a work in progress and I'm not sure where I want to go with it.
|
|
|
Post by cerberus1426 on Mar 11, 2023 20:07:41 GMT
That looks even better. Colour always pops with a little black near it.
|
|