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Post by wstalcup on Sept 11, 2021 3:15:15 GMT
If you bought an unsharpened blade, how much would you sharpen it? all the way to the hilt or just some percentage of the length from the tip to the hilt.. If it matters, what type of sword, I am speaking of a Medieval sword.. Thanks!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2021 6:03:08 GMT
For me, it would really depend on the specific sword but none really need a sharp edge right to the guard. Some really pointy swords actually cut better on the hilt side of the center of percussion. Others of a very similar pointy profile prefer to cut further out. Cut oriented swords should be mostly sharp.
It depends.
Cheers GC
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Sept 11, 2021 12:58:35 GMT
I don’t sharpen, even medieval swords, all the way. To say how far or percentage would depend on the sword. However I leave at least enough to comfortably grab as that makes a convenient grab spot as opposed to always using the grip during maintenance or other times. Besides I’ve never cut in that area so way sharpen? I know, lots of folks prefer all the way.
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Post by durinnmcfurren on Sept 11, 2021 14:12:34 GMT
Historically, some swords left a ricasso, and some were sharp all the way to the hilt (viking swords for example, from what we can tell). It really depends on the sword.
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tera
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Post by tera on Sept 11, 2021 17:02:10 GMT
Definitely depends on the sword and how "not sharp". Usually, for Japanese swords, if they are not sharp it is by design and they are intended as Iaito. Attempting to sharpen one of those is usually not a good idea as you either have to remove too much material for a real polish or you are grinding in a secondary bezel. In any case, most schools teach to cut only with the monouchi of the blade, so it doesn't need to be razor sharp all the way doen to the habaki.
European swords have different geometries, so I defer to those with more expertise there.
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Post by treeslicer on Sept 11, 2021 17:05:34 GMT
IMHO, "it depends" will be the best answer you can get. "One size fits all" won't work in this case.
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 11, 2021 17:32:58 GMT
very interesting thoughts from all! thanks!
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Greg E
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little bit of this... and a whole lot of that
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Post by Greg E on Sept 11, 2021 20:56:55 GMT
Another thing to consider is how much steel is being removed to be sharpened. Kult of Athen sharpens blades they sell. But they will leave 3 - 5 inches unsharpened near the hilt. This wouldn't be that big of a deal, but the amount of steel removed now changes the shape of the blade. Where the sharp and unsharp meet, it can almost look like a step. A different width of blade. And to me, once I see that, I can not unsee it. My eyes are drawn to it and it bothers me because the blade shape is a bit 'off'. Just my experience.
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 14, 2021 15:53:26 GMT
Another thing to consider is how much steel is being removed to be sharpened. Kult of Athen sharpens blades they sell. But they will leave 3 - 5 inches unsharpened near the hilt. This wouldn't be that big of a deal, but the amount of steel removed now changes the shape of the blade. Where the sharp and unsharp meet, it can almost look like a step. A different width of blade. And to me, once I see that, I can not unsee it. My eyes are drawn to it and it bothers me because the blade shape is a bit 'off'. Just my experience. I have seen that with some of my current swords i do like to cut cardboard boxes and things with my swords though..
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Greg E
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little bit of this... and a whole lot of that
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Post by Greg E on Sept 14, 2021 16:41:54 GMT
Another thing to consider is how much steel is being removed to be sharpened. Kult of Athen sharpens blades they sell. But they will leave 3 - 5 inches unsharpened near the hilt. This wouldn't be that big of a deal, but the amount of steel removed now changes the shape of the blade. Where the sharp and unsharp meet, it can almost look like a step. A different width of blade. And to me, once I see that, I can not unsee it. My eyes are drawn to it and it bothers me because the blade shape is a bit 'off'. Just my experience. I have seen that with some of my current swords i do like to cut cardboard boxes and things with my swords though.. Yeah I get you on that. I just have to sharpen the part that they don't just to make it look OK to me.
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Post by MichaelRS on Sept 22, 2021 7:50:16 GMT
If it's a thrusting sword I would say at least the first foot of it. That should be enough to get you from the sternum to the spine and reach most any other vital organs in between. For a cutting sword pretty much the whole thing, except maybe the last 4-ish inches of blade toward the handguard.
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Post by RufusScorpius on Sept 22, 2021 13:26:49 GMT
Generally speaking in broad term, swords weren't sharpened near the hilt for about an inch or so. This was due to a couple of engineering reasons:
1. It makes it easier to sharpen when there is a flat spot near the hilt. You can use hand stones or a wheel without worrying about damaging the handguard or other parts 2. there is no need to have that area sharp in the first place 3. it does less damage when blocking if you have that area dulled 4. You have less risk of hurting yourself when disassembling the sword for maintenance or repair.
Or you could sharpen it all the way down if you want to, it's your sword, do as you will.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Sept 22, 2021 13:30:40 GMT
If it's a thrusting sword I would say at least the first foot of it. As for thrusting I know of an antique rapier that had both edges sharpened to 9”. As for my experience using two swords as a test platform a P1796 and M1840 NCO, both repros. The P1796 has a more impressive blade being larger with a 9½” sharpened false edge and the M1840 1½”. Both the P1796 and M1840 will penetrate 4 rugs before passing through a filled gallon plastic jug. I believe it is only necessary to sharpen far enough to get the penetration started and then the taper is enough to allow the blade to continue farther. Of course the trick is the ‘taper’, if there is no transition such as having a step the blade will be handicapped. Below is the false each of each. Cosmetically speaking I wish the M1840 had more false edge to sharpen, but on the other hand the present blade is stiffer and balances well. To me the P1796’s blade is eye candy. 23” and 22” respectively of the true edge has been sharpened. P1796 M1840 NCO
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Post by wstalcup on Sept 28, 2021 18:22:19 GMT
If it's a thrusting sword I would say at least the first foot of it. As for thrusting I know of an antique rapier that had both edges sharpened to 9”. As for my experience using two swords as a test platform a P1796 and M1840 NCO, both repros. The P1796 has a more impressive blade being larger with a 9½” sharpened false edge and the M1840 1½”. Both the P1796 and M1840 will penetrate 4 rugs before passing through a filled gallon plastic jug. I believe it is only necessary to sharpen far enough to get the penetration started and then the taper is enough to allow the blade to continue farther. Of course the trick is the ‘taper’, if there is no transition such as having a step the blade will be handicapped. Below is the false each of each. Cosmetically speaking I wish the M1840 had more false edge to sharpen, but on the other hand the present blade is stiffer and balances well. To me the P1796’s blade is eye candy. 23” and 22” respectively of the true edge has been sharpened. P1796 M1840 NCO Thanks!!!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2021 5:17:58 GMT
I mostly just sharpen the two thirds near the tip, which is the only portion I use to cut with
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Post by wstalcup on Oct 8, 2021 15:05:27 GMT
I mostly just sharpen the two thirds near the tip, which is the only portion I use to cut with cool! makes sense!
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 8, 2021 16:21:51 GMT
That's appoximately what I sharpen, but I don't measure to make that exact. That is if the blade is not decorated, then I work around that.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2021 20:08:35 GMT
That's appoximately what I sharpen, but I don't measure to make that exact. That is if the blade is not decorated, then I work around that. Yea same here, maybe approx 4-5" down past the COP, mostly cause I'm kinda lazy. It's a pain to sharpen dull blades if they aren't already sharp Wstalcup: yea it's mostly a choice out of laziness haha
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Post by Lionhardt on Nov 3, 2021 13:06:27 GMT
Every inch of it I can! When I'm in the heat of slicing and dicing, I would be pretty pissed if, during the frenzy, I end up needing to slice the dudes throat with the inch closest to the guard, and I can't because I chose not to sharpen that part. Nope, it all gets sharpened.
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Post by ericmosser on Nov 3, 2021 14:58:08 GMT
it's a minor nitpick with no functional importance, but when a sword is only sharpened 2/3 of the way up from the point, the point where it transitions from sharp to blunt can sometimes be very visible and look "off" (but that definitely depends on how blunt is blunt). I do like the last 2 inches or so on single handed swords left blunt enough to "finger the guard"
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