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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2008 4:06:01 GMT
I tried the etch 3 times, and three times it came out like junk so unless I get a step by step on technique and application Ill leave it until I feel up to trying again
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slav
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Post by slav on Sept 6, 2008 4:53:47 GMT
You know that you have to polish the etch off with metal polish to see the real results, right?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2008 12:51:58 GMT
Yes, I did polish it off but it wiped it out completely as if Id never done one. It regressed to the same look as before I started.
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slav
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Post by slav on Sept 6, 2008 13:46:05 GMT
But the hamon was still there, correct? It just looked the same as when you first bought it?
With the Kaze, that may be the best you can do. Same thing happened when I tried to etch out my girlfriend's Kaze to enhance the hamon. The appearance of the hamon really didn't change at all after etching.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2008 15:34:13 GMT
Yea the hamon was there, but you got it, It looked the same as when I bought it.
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slav
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Post by slav on Sept 6, 2008 20:07:26 GMT
Well, then that's the best you can do.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2008 18:39:59 GMT
that was the problem I fenced when I polished my Practical Plus. That´s the reason why I told you, that you will face a point where you don`t see any progression ;D
It is totally normal that when you etch a polished blade, hamon will appear extremely well visible, due to the oxides that are formed.
Then when you use your polishing paste all will wipe away. Is this the point where you`re at?
If so, all it takes is a little more patience and some more care. What I did at this point was this: I etched some more times, but took much more care when removing the oxides. I took my polishing paste and aplied it with utmost care with absolutely NO pressure using my tiny finger. Then I washed it off, not rub, or wipe but wash. Then I took a micromesh 12.000 grit. I think a worn out 2.500 will be the same, because they are using different systems. So you take 2.500 grit, put oil on the blade and wrap the paper around something small and square. You gently, using no pressure move the paper-block along the blade. No circular motions only one single stroke along the blade at a time. You might have to do this several times, but it did the trick for me.
If you are facing the same problem I did the solution is simple: take more care and use less pressure removing the oxides, so you won`t wipe off the hamon.
If you are not facing the problem I did, then maybe the 9260 has nothing more to offer but what you are looking at. 9260 doesn`t make that prompt hamon, but I think you could give it a try once more.
If you do not succeed you can go back to 2.500 at any time
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2008 4:45:09 GMT
Just received another Kaze from Hastur today.. He said his was purchased about 1 yr ago and I purchased one last week. A few differences: 1st thing that stood out was his Kaze has a chu kissaki(medium) almost a ko kissaki(small), whereas mine has an o'kissaki(long). Was the design changed or does it vary from sword to sword? I'd like to hear from other owners on what kissaki theirs has.. 2nd thing is the nakago length, his is almost 1 whole inch longer than mine. I'm almost sure that varies from sword to sword. The koiguchi on his is a hard plastic which wraps the face of the saya, while mine circles the saya but the face is raw wood. Saya length differs alot, his is about 1 1/2 inches longer! Last but not least the tsuka is considerably fatter than mine. It almost looks and feels like 2 different swords,he he. Just felt like sharing the differences I also did some tamashigiri with both and will post some pics and get some video soon.
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