Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2008 20:31:51 GMT
Hey All, I would really like to define the hamon on my Kaze when I receive it. There are many of you with first hand knowledge on this so am I wrong to assume that I would just use a hazuya stone just along the hamon only or how about this... how do I do it altogether? Thanks
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2008 0:22:10 GMT
well i have never used a hazuya stone but a way to get the hamon to come out even better is to get some white distilled vinegar mix in a bowl with dish soap (about a 6 to 1 ratio). heat it up in the microwave until it is almost boiling. then apply to the blade with a cotton ball and add more every now and then. u can also improve your results by using a butane torch to warm up the solution on the blade (just warm it DO NOT HEAT IT UP). this opens the pores in the steel making it more responsive to the acids. i have used this method on my knives with great results. source: www.arscives.com/bladesign/hybridpolish.htm
|
|
slav
Member
Senior Forumite
Katsujin No Ken
Posts: 4,457
|
Post by slav on Aug 30, 2008 5:48:32 GMT
Yes, you should etch out the hamon as described in the link above. You may want to use Ferric Chloride as your etching solution, which can be found at some RadioShack stores.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2008 6:25:26 GMT
Great link! Should I do the whole process with sandpaper or just the solution method?
|
|
slav
Member
Senior Forumite
Katsujin No Ken
Posts: 4,457
|
Post by slav on Aug 30, 2008 6:34:06 GMT
Just the solution. No need to polish it any more than it already is. You just want to enhance the existing hamon, not completely re-etch it from scratch.
Good Luck!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2008 11:21:31 GMT
btw. please, please do NOT heat up the blade with any flaming device. This would be absolutely unnecessary and dangerous!
If you warm up the etchant in the microwave the blade will automatically drain heat from the liquid and become warm by itself. If you wish to heat up the blade, which is normaly not needed, boil some destilled water with sodium bicarbonate and drench the blade in it. This is absolutely save and there is nearly no way to destroy the heat treatment.
But like I said, heating up the etchant is more than enough.
You could be experiencing some difficulties when trying to remove the oxides. You will need very fine, maybe even non abrasive, polishing pastes
Btw. Hazuya needs to match the steel of the blade. There are hard stones and soft, just like there are steels. It takes long to find out which hazuya matches your blade, to get a nice looking white hamon. But if you use Hazuya on the complete blade (excluding shinogi, means only on the Ji and the ha) and etching afterwards will lead to a nice silky surface finish
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2008 14:16:55 GMT
I would say just leave it as is.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2008 17:57:04 GMT
slav will that stuff burn ur skin on contact?
|
|
slav
Member
Senior Forumite
Katsujin No Ken
Posts: 4,457
|
Post by slav on Aug 30, 2008 21:47:20 GMT
No, not at all. It is not a very strong acid. It will turn your skin yellow like food coloring, though. Just wash with soap and water after using it and you're good to go.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2008 2:05:08 GMT
just curious but how much heat does it take to ruin a sword?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2008 4:22:41 GMT
500F I would say, for production low end swords, for high end I would say 450F.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2008 4:59:06 GMT
How many times can I or better yet, should I repeat the process? Can I do it until I'm satisfied with it? Oh and will Nevrdull work on removing the oxide?
|
|
slav
Member
Senior Forumite
Katsujin No Ken
Posts: 4,457
|
Post by slav on Sept 1, 2008 5:06:26 GMT
Do it until you are satisfied!
Haven't heard of neverdull, but give it a try. Otherwise, use MetalGLO or Flitz metal polish.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2008 5:16:15 GMT
Good Stuff! Thanks again!~ ;D ;D
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2008 18:14:25 GMT
before it`s too late, as a chemist I have to warn you about Ferric Chloride, or FeCL3 Your skin does indeed have a protective layer against acids. But I would still not recommend getting this stuff on your hands! Wear protective gloves, they are cheap and you killed any risk. But still there is something to keep in mind; Never. I really do mean never throw away FeCl3 or flush it down the drain. FeCl3 is extremely poluting. Either you store it and reuse it, or you try to neutralize it with much baking soda. I think this could work, but I am not sure on that. Lemon or aplle-acid are way more soft and friendly to your skin and blade. But both works just fine. Just keep the safety in mind and show us some result btw. the work can be frustrating, keep my words in mind: if you are not making any progress, stop working before you get frustratet and try it again another day.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2008 20:18:13 GMT
well i used vinegar with great results and to my knowledge the only down side of using it is that it smells a lil funky.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2008 1:43:21 GMT
btw. the work can be frustrating, keep my words in mind: if you are not making any progress, stop working before you get frustrated and try it again another day. Words of Wisdom Less, I sometimes find myself doing just that. If results aren't forthcoming, I will relax and save it for another day! ;D
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2008 5:08:57 GMT
Yes, you should etch out the hamon as described in the link above. You may want to use Ferric Chloride as your etching solution, which can be found at some RadioShack stores. Do i do the same process just with the Chloride watered down? whats the parts? I would think you would mask the shinogi ji since it should be darker right? since I've never done a chemical etch I'm assuming the chloride gives the hamon its milky white character so wouldn't i mask everything except the ha?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2008 9:33:09 GMT
there are several ways and all lead to different results.
First; yes if you don`t mask the shinogi it will get dull and grayish. You would have to repolish it with some very fine abrasives to get it that shiny again. I never mask the shinogi, but I think you could do it.
Second the tricky part. Making the FeCl3 solution. I never found any recipes that worked pefectly. There simply aren`t. Every type of steel gets affected differently by acid. So nobody can tell you exactly which solution wil work for you. You will have to do some try and error with FeCl3.
The one thing to keep in mind; the more water you add, the STRONGER will an acid attack metal.
Because I have not that much experience with FeCl3 maybe someone else can give you a little clue with that.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2008 19:23:33 GMT
Well I couldn't help myself... I went out and bought 800, 1500,2000,2500 paper and spent 17 hours in total polishing the Kaze. Now it has a mirror finish! I also picked up a bottle of etch from radioshack and have been currenlty staring at it wondering if I should leave it as is or go for an etch? I know that it will not come out totally uniform but im just not sure.. I know that FC can be tricky, right?
|
|