DIY Kydex Sword Sheaths

Any sword I purchase, I use for cutting.  I also loan them as class cutters in our HEMA club and travel with them to tournaments.

Most of those swords are Albions and Atrims, and so did not include scabbards when purchased new. I could have commissioned custom scabbards, but two things stopped me - cost - and the worry of damaging those pricey, beautiful scabbards with repeated transport and use.

My interest in Kydex was piqued after watching Kydex knife sheath making videos and checking out Zombie Tools Kydex sword sheaths. I liked the the rugged look of those sheaths. After discovering Kydex was not that expensive, I decided to try making my own Kydex sheaths for my sharps.

They came out better than expected and are just what I needed for my situation.

If folks are interested, I can post a bit more on my process for making them. UPDATE: You wanted to know more, so here goes...

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Right off the top, let me say I am NOT a handyman/craftsman by nature. I am sure there are smarter, more efficient, and just plain better ways to do this. This is simply how I did it. But feel free to ask questions or post any info that would help streamline or improve this process.


Supplies 


Kydex - I use 24 x 48 inch sheets of .80 thickness. Each sheet yields 2 swords for me.

Fasteners - I have used both of these:

Chicago Screws - I use 1/4 Diameter shaft x 1/8 length



    Pros:

• No special tools required
  
• Can be disassembled for cleaning 
  

    Cons:

• More expensive than rivets
  

Eyelets - I use QuickClip Pro Mil-Spec Kydex Eyelets GS 8-10, Brass Black Oxide 1/4"

 


    Pros:

• Cheaper than Chicago screws
  
• Rivets are more surface flush than screws
  
• Rivet holes offer more tactical mounting options

    Cons:

• Eyelet setting tools and/or arbor press needed
  
• Eyelets can be difficult to remove if mistakes are made
  

The 2 biggest monetary outlays for my setup were:

1. Sword Length Kydex Press
2. Kydex Heating setup


For my Kydex Press.



2 pieces of 1x8 boards I cut to a length of 42 inches - (My longest Sharp has a 37" blade)

Foam Sheets - I used Polyethylene 1" Foam - cut from a 24x48 sheet to fit the 1x8's

I attached the foam to the boards with spray glue.

To apply pressure, I mostly use Bremen 6" medium-duty quick clamps from Harbor Freight - the more clamps, the better.


The "Frydex"


The other significant piece of equipment is something to heat the Kydex.

I opted to place 2 electric griddles end-to-end. The large one in my photo is 35" long and can handle most arming swords by itself. Longswords require both griddles.

I HIGHLY recommend a non-contact thermometer to monitor temperature. The temp controls on the griddles are not at all accurate.


Making the Sheath


Measuring and Cutting the Kydex



When cutting your Kydex sheets - allow 3 to 4 inches of Kydex above the hilt and at least 1.5 to 2.5 inches below the tip. The excess will be sanded or cut away in the finishing stage.

I tend to allow for 2 inches of Kydex on both sides of the blade where it joins the hilt - typically, for my swords that means ~6 inch wide Kydex strips

I use tin/aviation snips to cut the Kydex - though you could probably use a band saw. Some people score the Kydex and then break it

After cutting the 2 identical pieces, it's on to the heating.


Heating the Kydex



I wear a pair of work gloves and simply flip and turn the Kydex sheets very often to get the most even heat possible.

Pro Tip: Grill the Kydex with the finished sides on the INSIDE. That way, if there is any scorching, it will be unnoticed on the inside of the finished sheath

The Kydex molds best as close to 350 degrees F as possible, although I have managed good results down to 325F.

When you remove the Kydex from the heat, you need to move FAST. Layer and clamp as quickly as possible.


Arranging the "Sandwich"

Here is the arrangement of press, Kydex and sword from bottom to top:

1. Bottom Foam/Board
   
2. 1st layer of Kydex
   
3. Sword
   
4. 2nd layer of Kydex
   
5. Top Foam/Board
   

Clamps



Apply clamps (or some other source of high pressure) as quickly as possible.

Make sure to use clamps just above and just below the hilt in particular.

For the first 5 minutes after the clamps go on, keep checking pressure and ratchet the clamps tighter as needed.

Minimum cool-down time is 10 minutes - but I recommend 20 to 30 minutes - Kydex temperature should be below 150 degrees when removed from the press.




Measuring and Drilling Holes




I generally start the holes 1 to 1.5 inches from the hilt. I mark about 5/8 inch from the edge of the blade and space screws/rivets along the blade length every 3 inches at minimum.



Pro Tip - If you can spring for "Brad Point" drill bits - do it. They have a sharp point at that tip that digs into Kydex. Regular bits can skip around if you're not careful.





Fastening


If using Chicago screws, I highly recommend applying blue Loctite to the threads. Without it, the screws tend to vibrate loose during sanding.

If using eyelets, I find 2 quick, medium force hammer blows give about the right amount force to tighten the eyelet. But, an arbor press will give a more uniform result.


Shaping/Sanding


 After fastening, but before sanding


Start grinding away what doesn't look like a sword sheath :-)

I use a Harbor Freight 1x30 Belt Sander with 80 grit belts

 About 50% sanded

Don't remove too much above the hilt. You want to be sure there is enough Kydex to secure the sword.

I tend to leave about 1/2" of Kydex beyond the line of eyelets along the edge, but 1/4" would probably be fine as well

Final step is hand sanding with a Fine grit foam sanding block to take off the rough edges. Some people go so far as to use a polishing wheel to get a super-smooth edge.

And that's basically it.


 Angus Trim XVIa.3 with Kydex Sheath