Traditional Filipino Weapons Moro Kris Sword 3
Dec 12, 2020 18:31:13 GMT
Post by alientude on Dec 12, 2020 18:31:13 GMT
Southeast Asian swords and weapons in general tend to be very flashy, prizing appearance as well as functionality. The Traditional Filipino Weapons Moro Kris Sword 3 is certainly no exception, with it's half wavy, half straight blade, decorative integrated guard, and striking handle design.
Full Disclosure
I am a sword-collecting enthusiast, and in no way whatsoever a historian, martial artist, sword or weapon expert. Furthermore, I know next to nothing about Filipino swords, so I'll be learning what I can as I write this review. Most of my sources for the history will be from Wikipedia and their sources. I apologize in advance if I get something wrong.
In addition, I am a novice when it comes to cutting and the use of swords.
I received this sword in a Kult of Athena mystery box for which I paid $200. KoA advertised the mystery box as full of functional weapons that might have a few minor flaws that would not hinder their use. This sword, while currently back ordered, has a price tag of $294.95 on KoA as of this writing.
Historical Overview
This blade, a Moro Kris, is a type of kalis, a double-edged Filipino weapon influenced by the keris. The keris, or kris, is a broad term used to describe Indonesian daggers that could date back as far as 300 BC. They might have been influenced by Dongson bronze culture in Vietnam, the Champa kingdom, or perhaps from India. The kris as we typically understand it today, with the highly detailed, integrated guard and carved handle, can be traced back to around the middle of the 14th century. Something I didn't realize until reading about this is that a kris does not require any waves in the blade – there are kris that are completely straight.
The difference between a kalis and a kris is generally that the kalis is longer than a kris, making it a sword rather than a dagger. The name of this sword comes from the Moro people native to the region known as Bangsamoro. Like the kris, there is no requirement for a kalis to have a wavy section.
The U.S. National Museum, Smithsonian Institute, has classified 8 different types of krisses (picture below), which can be used to classify the kalis, as well. Going by that classification, the TFW Moro Kris Sword 3 is a type 1.
Statistics
Blade length: 23 1/4" (59 cm)
Blade width near guard: 2 5/16" (5.9 cm)
Blade width after waves: 1 5/8" (4.1 cm)
Distal taper: 0.2375" (6 mm) near guard, 0.17" (4.3 mm) 2/3 way up the blade, 0.1295" (3.3 mm) near tip
Point of balance: 4 3/8" (11.1 cm) from top brass stirrup
Guard width: 5 1/4" (13.3 cm)
Grip length: 4 1/8" (10.5 cm)
Grip diameter: 0.96" (2.4 cm)
Overall length: 30 1/8" (76.5 cm)
Weight (sword only): 2.03 lbs (919g)
Weight (with scabbard): 2.67 lbs (1209g)
Blade Components
I will include a translation of different blade components for parts that I'm able to find the correct terminology. I found 3 different languages that could apply, so I've chosen the first one (Maguindanao) to use.
Blade (tungo)
5160/D2 High Carbon Steel. TFW states edge hardness of 58-60 HRC. Type 1 blade (half-wavy, half-straight – luma, in Manguindanao). Factory sharpened.
The blade on this sword has two waves before straightening out and gently narrowing to a tip that is somewhat rounded, but still pointed. The cross section of the sword is rather complex – it starts as a hexagonal cross section through the waves and about 2/5 of the way through the straight portion, then transitions to a diamond cross section for the remainder of the blade.
The sword comes sharp from the factory, although there is a noticeable secondary bevel. This might be typical of this type of blade. It certainly did not impede cutting with the sword (more on that below).
There are a few small marks on the sword that might be pitting, or simply forge marks. It also has a slight warp near the tip. It's really hard to notice it, especially with the waves in the blade playing tricks on your perspective when looking down the length of the sword. I presume these minor imperfections are why KoA added this to the mystery box.
Integrated
The guard has two brass stirrups (asang-asang) wrapped around it, and an intricate design that evokes images of waves on the beach. From the pictures of other kris I've seen online, this is a very traditional style of guard. I really like the style of it, especially the two brass stirrups.
My one concern with this guard is keeping the steel oiled. Getting oil into the nooks and crannies of the guard is very difficult.
Hilt (ulu-ulu)
Carved hardwood and brass(?) collar
The hilt of this sword is made of two pieces – a collar (I believe made of brass) that fits snugly against the guard, and a carved hardwood (type unknown) handle. There's what looks a rivet worked into the collar that presumably goes through the tang.
The oval-shaped hardwood handle has a few carved rings spaced throughout, and it has a beautiful dark color and grain pattern. Overall, it's extremely comfortable to hold.
The pommel on this sword is integrated with the hilt. The shaping of it helps lock my hand in place.
Scabbard (salungan)
Wood scabbard and rattan wraps
The wood (unknown type) scabbard is simple - two pieces of wood, and three separate bands of rattan wrapped around it. It's polished smooth and evenly. The grain of the wood gives it a nice appearance.
The fit of the sword to the scabbard is okay at best. It has a tiny bit of rattle to it, but there's no retention at all – the sword slides out without any force. I prefer my swords to stay in the scabbard unless intentionally drawn.
Handling Characteristics
This sword handles beautifully. It feels like an extension of the arm, requiring little force and dancing through the air with ease. The point of balance feels perfect to me. The handle and grip construction helped me keep my edge alignment correct. This sword is a joy to handle.
Test Cutting
Paper Test
Swords don't necessarily need to be able to cut paper. It's not the purpose for which they're designed, but I find it to be a good way to measure the evenness of the sharpening – as the blade draws through the paper, if there's a duller spot or burr, it will often tear the paper at that point.
This sword struggles to cut paper. I can't start a cut with the wavy section at all. The true edge of the straight section cuts okay, although it's a rough cut. The false edge of the straight section does more tearing than cutting.
Water Bottles
This sword cuts through water bottles like they're not even there. This is the first sword I've used where I was able to get consistent clean cuts, leaving the bottom of the bottle in place after the cut (keep in mind I'm a novice at this). I did struggle to get the sword to cut using the false edge, but that could be my poor skill coming through, as I haven't practiced false edge cuts much. Combined with the paper test, however, it looks like the false edge might be a little less sharp than the true edge.
One final note – all of my test cuts on water bottles were with the straight section of the sword.
Conclusion
I've heard good things about Traditional Filipino Weapons, so I was happy to get one in the KoA mystery box. This sword certainly reinforces the positives I've heard about them. I think it's an attractive sword that's made even more beautiful by how well it performs.
Pros
- Cuts and handles extremely well.
- Beautiful sword.
Cons
- Scabbard doesn't retain sword to my liking.
The Bottom Line
If you're looking for a relatively inexpensive Filipino weapon, I think picking one of these up is a great call. It's also a great choice if you're looking for a sword to cut stuff with and aren't really fussed about the type of sword. Overall, I think it's a great buy.
The full gallery of pictures I took of this sword can be viewed here.