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Post by leed on Sept 5, 2020 23:49:48 GMT
Hi guys.. Weak old newbie here. Got a 440 stainless machete, a Ima 1075 machete, and a 1045 katana that needs shortening and narrowing. Tools are hand metal hacksaw, hand angle grinder with stone and metal blades, and several metal files. Which of the 3 is easiest to cut down? The katana is most valuable, the stainless machete least. Never worked with metal, but was pretty good at fiberglassing. Thanks
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2020 23:59:18 GMT
What you plan to do with em? Cause the 440 stainless will be least heart breaking if you mess up haha
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Post by leed on Sept 6, 2020 1:17:31 GMT
440 stainless is really blade heavy, balance point at 7" for a 13.5" blade, so great 2 lbs. chopper, but too slow and clumsy for me, at 71 years. 1045 katana is bpt.at 6.5", and I have a katana balanced at 6" already so cutting the blade down 4" and maybe drilling some lightening holes along the hi. 1075 machete is balanced at TEN inches, 28"blade. Cutting and drilling to move bpt. to around a useable 6". I cannot get stronger or more fit, so lightening is one option.
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Scott
Member
Posts: 1,675
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Post by Scott on Sept 6, 2020 1:35:09 GMT
Is the katana differentially hardened? That would limit how you modify it. Personally I'd start on the machetes with the angle grinder, work slowly with lots of light cuts, cooling the blade frequently by dipping it in a bucket of water or running a wet day over it.
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Post by leed on Sept 6, 2020 2:34:29 GMT
My question is....is 440 stainless harder to grind/cut than 1075? I know the 1045 katana is not hardened nor folded, is softer than the machetes, but more than twice as thick. So, starting with the machetes, the stainless is half the price of the 1075, and is something that can be sacrificed if I find I am all thumbs and without prudence. But, isn't 440 stainless hard and brittle, so tough to cut and grind? I hope to absorb some knowledge here.
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Post by nebulatech on Sept 6, 2020 3:53:39 GMT
Stainless is a bear to cut. I recently had to cut an inspection port into my holding tank (foul job). I went through 4 high grade metal blades on my jigsaw for a 4" x 6" rectangle on probably 1/16" stainless sheet metal. The angle grinder, which I tried first, was a complete fail. I ruined a few drill bits too.
One piece of advice I found helpful is for stainless, lower your speed (power tools) and lubricate generously with water, not oil.
I realize a jig saw wasn't in your tool list, but in the past I have had great success with the diamond blades on non-stainless. I believe there is a diamond hacksaw blade. No promises, and they are pricey.
A final observation, the heat generated from an angle grinder may ruin any tempering.
Good luck!
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Post by leed on Sept 6, 2020 15:13:57 GMT
Thanks for the advice! Looks like I'll start with the Ima 28" machete in what they call "1075". It was very easy to sharpen, and doesn't hold an edge nearly as well as the "1045" katana cutting 2" saplings around the yard. I'm planning on shortening it 3" and take away material near the tip, making it more stabbing sword and less leaf cutter. Fun starts after I clean out the garage. Any more tips ALWAYS appreciated!
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Post by bebut on Sept 6, 2020 20:52:16 GMT
I whack Imacasa 1075 machetes all the time for garden use. 13-14 inchers are the most useful for gardening and if you cut a bigger machete like a cuma down it is much thicker (top to bottom) and heavier than just buying a 14 inch one. Once you cut them down you take a lot of the wiggle out of the blade even though it is the same thickness from front to back.I also have cut some down to 15- to 17 inches so they would be similar to the short swords I have at my other house. Also bought a 12" Estwing hatchet for the other hand. If all you have are edged weapons, you might as well have 2!
Draw line(s) on machete with indelible marker, cut with cutting blade on angle grinder. Spray with water or dip in water if you want. If you make a fast cut it is all over very quickly and you will get very little discoloration. If an edge turns a little blue, file it down to undamaged steel.
Get a flapper disk for the angle grinder. 60 and 80 grit are real common in hardware stores and will save a lot of time in shaping and sharpening. If you keep moving and use moderate pressure it will not heat up the blade much. Finish sharpening with a mill bastard file or stone. Clamping the machete down to something with c clamps makes the work much easier and safer.
I seems a real waste to possible butcher a sword when you have the machete option on hand. Also, if you are somewhere where you can order online there are short sword options ready made. Pay attention to length/weigh ratio. Windlass' Cobra Steel line comes to mind. I have their Falcata. It is ugly but with a comfy handle and I recommend it for a cheapy SD weapon. Another that comes to mind is French yatagan sword bayonet. This one has an incredibly nimble feel to it and whistles to you when it cuts the air. There are a zillion of them out there for $100+ in user condition.
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Post by leed on Sept 7, 2020 0:31:49 GMT
Good tips, thanks. Trying to make useable out of useless. A 24" blade katana would be nice. 24" machete. And 19" one handed quick rather than powerful cutter.
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Post by leed on Sept 8, 2020 2:52:35 GMT
Yes, I do have a Black n Decker jig saw. Wonder if the 1045 katana might not be the easiest option, since it's the softest metal with questionable hardening. Thinking of chopping it down to 24' blade with a tanto tip. Useful size, and might pull balance point to under 5" from 6.5". Kinda worried the Imacasa might have too tough a blade for a total novice metal worker. But, it's useless with a 28" blade and 10" balance right now. Looking to straighten garage in the coming weeks.
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Post by nebulatech on Sept 8, 2020 3:22:30 GMT
Bebut can you please link to or post a pic of the cutting blade you are referring to for an angle grinder?
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Post by bebut on Sept 17, 2020 1:41:13 GMT
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Post by nebulatech on Sept 17, 2020 20:52:05 GMT
Hi Bebut, thanks for the links!
In my mind, I think of the disks you linked to as grinding disks, except as you suggest, there are thin ones and thick ones. When I read cutting blade, I was thinking about the diamond blades. Obviously, the diamond blades are for stone and concrete, but sometimes they work pretty well on soft steel so I was interested. I used the thinner blades like you linked to a few months ago to cut an engine block into pieces. Apart from the soon-to-be-rusting dust all over my cockpit, it was pretty efficient.
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