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Post by tsmspace on Aug 11, 2020 7:18:38 GMT
I'm looking for a nice light saber for backyard bottles. I want it to be pretty good, though, like it will cut bottles really easily. Gatorade etc. I have a universal swords saber, which is not the best blade,, it doesn't hold the best edge. I am inclined to think my best bet right now is cold steel, but others offer that I should buy an original sword. I can't tell what you have going on here, which ones must be replicas, and what sort of steel quality you are working with. Even an inexpensive original sword is potentially not for me, because if it will not handle the cutting I plan to do, it will be ruined forever, and I want to respect the value of the artifact. Instead, I'm hoping to find one that I can be given confidence that if I accidentally hit the log, or have a bad cut on a large bottle, the blade won't bend, the handle won't come apart of rotated, etc.
Can you offer some analysis on your slightly curved sabers based on my intent of use to let me know what sort of swords these are>??
thanks. !!!!
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Post by MOK on Aug 12, 2020 22:05:05 GMT
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Post by RufusScorpius on Aug 12, 2020 23:27:13 GMT
I don't think anybody makes a light saber. Its all Hollywood special effects.
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Post by tsmspace on Aug 13, 2020 2:58:52 GMT
I don't think anybody makes a light saber. Its all Hollywood special effects. hohohoho. I mean,,,, a saber that is not a heavy saber, but is quite light. Unless you happen to know where to pick up a hilt that is able to project such a beam that is so destructive yet also functions like a solid object and also is safe and pleasant to handle. My money is on particle accelerator creates temporary singularity phenomenon which has a gravity effect ripping at the edge of the blade, burning the air creating the soft glow, but actually cutting using gravity to collapse all matter than enters within the beam , but not pulling outside of the beam as the singularities created will only last for microseconds and the beam will be made of up a stream of them. (they are fired from the hilt and their decay time and speed result in the length of the blade). But miniaturizing the large hadron collider might take a few more years.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 13, 2020 4:22:05 GMT
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Post by tsmspace on Aug 13, 2020 6:31:52 GMT
I was looking at that but it has no reviews. The thing is, that's probably exactly right. The reason is, I'm not looking for the most potent cutter that just cuts automatically. I'm trying to find the compromise cutter that isn't very ideal in many ways for cutting, and then becomes a practicable challenge to cut water bottles,,, the problem is, I find that the universal swords saber I have is ok for some bottles, but on others it just bends. I don't know how well I can practice through tougher bottles because it just doesn't stand a change against them. It bends, the edge doesn't hold up on the bad cuts, it just doesn't work out to be very easy or comfortable to try and work through bad cuts the way other swords feel ok to do so with. I've only started playing with cutting recently, and swords that I can cut super well with I did have bad cuts on in the beginning, but the damage wasn't so atrocious. The universal swords saber used cheap wood in the handle, which twisted as a result, the blade bends a lot, I'm always bending it back, and the edge just doesn't penetrate very well. I've seen the testing of other sabers, but those are sabers that are specifically heavy duty. So although the same construction materials are used, the blades are meatier, and are therefore probably the kind of resilient that made universal swords think the steel is a fine selection. The saber I have is actually quite thin and light. It does feel like the same steel as my other universal sword, which is the french artillery gladius sized sword,,, but that sword is so much more substantial, that the steel is not going to bend. Instead, the blade still could be a little sharper, it's not easy to cut with, but I can hit with it and it's not likely going to bend. I could perhaps hit other targets to bend it, but bottles still have enough give to them,,, however the saber is very slender, and the story is very different. Also, it's not as curved as some other sabers,,, so the curvature might also work to reduce bending as the energy transfers into the blade closer parallel with the spine. The saber I have is the right shape, though. I want the compromise tip, the compromise curvature, and the slender light design. All said and done, it's just down to this,, , actually the cold steel dueling saber is a little spendy to just whim it up, and also it's about the least reviewed item produced by cold steel. Also I just bought a violin, which was expensive. it's pretty sick though. I bought a violin once before but must have tried playing it all of 10 minutes. I've already outdone myself and basically can squeel out beginner songs like mary had a little lamb of the sheet with no trouble. I mean, I can't make a nice sound, but I have enough competency to read beginner music, so it's easy to keep trying once you have some material to try to work out. Cutting , though, i realize, is like playing an instrument, and were I skilled enough, I could use the universal swords saber and cut the bottles that I can't cut right now. However,,,, struggling up to competency all at once on a single instrument is significantly more difficult than playing around with all kinds of instruments of various quality and then allowing improvement to occur during the successes you have from using choice equipment. (like,,, reading notes on the piano to get better at reading notes),,,, likewise, cutting with a nice katana allows successes, and then you can improve over time via successes. Struggling up on the saber might eventually result in competency, but the saber will be so destroyed, and I will always be batting bottles and suffering defeat. If I have a nice saber, then I can have success, improve slowly while having success, and then when I revisit the lower quality edge, I will be able to properly feel out how to make it work.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 13, 2020 7:49:04 GMT
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Post by tsmspace on Aug 13, 2020 8:03:14 GMT
I was looking at windlass sabers. I tried to buy one but it was the middle of the night, and i didn't catch that it was not a sharpening saber, but a duelling saber tempered for duelling. It was buying it from someone else. I told them my plans to sharpen up a saber for cutting, but I guess they didn't put it all together, so incoming is a hutton duelling saber, which again is not the correct steel to hold an edge. so,,,, there are some interesting things from windlass, , but none are QUITE right, and all of them would probably be adequate, so I made no moves after my goofup. (late night sugarrush, early morning headache,,, to his credit the seller sent it ,,,, IMMEDIATELY). edit:; I should just buy this: www.kultofathena.com/images/CS88EITB_7_l.jpgbut,,, it is not light.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 13, 2020 8:48:39 GMT
The Hutton is a training or sparring saber and blunt therefore. And it's not a good idea to sharpen such trainings/sparring swords or sabers because the blade geometric is very different from a sharp sword or even a not-sharped usual Windlass sword. The Duel Saber should be sharp.
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Post by tsmspace on Aug 14, 2020 4:17:44 GMT
The Hutton is a training or sparring saber and blunt therefore. And it's not a good idea to sharpen such trainings/sparring swords or sabers because the blade geometric is very different from a sharp sword or even a not-sharped usual Windlass sword. The Duel Saber should be sharp. yes,, this is what I was saying,,,, it was an accident. Now, I will soon have a useless training saber. because,,,, I don't fence. oh well. how well do you think a training saber would combat a training longsword???
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Scott
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Post by Scott on Aug 14, 2020 5:11:48 GMT
If you don't mind cutting with an antique you could try to find a Spanish 1895. They're not too expensive, and they're nice and light.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 14, 2020 5:46:08 GMT
Saber vs. longsword? No idea, ...then we always say "The better swordsman wins!"
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 14, 2020 12:18:13 GMT
I wrote this yesterday but never posted. I love my M1902. It’s the same weight as the M1840 NCO that you complain is too light. Also it’s a Universal that you complain will bend and not hold an edge although they use four different metals. Originally it was EN9 that I found too soft when holding an edge. Then a year or two back they started using three different 10xx steels. I suspect at that point they were undecided as to which but as of this year all are manufactured with 1065 which the M1902 is. I use mine so often I’ve stopped returning it to the scabbard as I was taping the blade to save the edge and with such frequency is a pain. I use mine every 2-3 days. The last time I sharpened it was somewhere between 1-2 months ago. That CS Talwar weighs 2 lb 6 oz, not a light sword that you stated. Windlass makes three Confederate sabres, two of which are < 2 lb. and PoB reasonably close for a repro. MRL and KoA both offer sharpening services. I didn’t check, going by memory Windlass has some Yankee sabres in that ball park. Then there are cutlasses, aka hangers, that handle better than sabres and use the same drill. It’s a compromise, light is fast and handles well, heavy better at heavy cutting but slower. Considereing your statement “The reason is, I'm not looking for the most potent cutter that just cuts automatically. I'm trying to find the compromise cutter that isn't very ideal in many ways for cutting, and then becomes a practicable challenge to cut water bottles”. I wouldn’t think of cleaving a skull with my M1902, or M1840 NCO for that fact. I have no doubt my M1860 sabre will, but it’s more fatiguing and slower and doesn’t handle as well. Perhaps you should work on you technique, I’ve never bent a blade including an EN9. I found that cavalry sabres are not my thing. Univesal’s M1902 is quite light and nimble and will take care of most backyard targets. I’ll try to make a cutting video probably this weekend weather permitting. It’s rain/thunder this morning and chores tomorrow morning.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 14, 2020 20:24:03 GMT
Here’s a quickie. I was racing the rain. I won but after putting the swords inside and before I could return for the camera it had begun. Since you have a M1840 I did a couple with that. I must have been having an off day as my #2 cuts toppled both targets off the board, but cut. That just goes to show even the best of us mess up.😁 Both are fast and handle well but are light cutters, duelling swords if you will. I doubt if either would cut through a skull. That gallon jug is too much. The M1902 will lay it open with a tip cut but won’t halve it. I haven’t tried with the M1840 but I seriously doubt it. The M1860 I’m sure will as well as amputations.
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Post by tsmspace on Aug 15, 2020 6:27:48 GMT
Here’s a quickie. I was racing the rain. I won but after putting the swords inside and before I could return for the camera it had begun. Since you have a M1840 I did a couple with that. I must have been having an off day as my #2 cuts toppled both targets off the board, but cut. That just goes to show even the best of us mess up.😁 Both are fast and handle well but are light cutters, duelling swords if you will. I doubt if either would cut through a skull. That gallon jug is too much. The M1902 will lay it open with a tip cut but won’t halve it. I haven’t tried with the M1840 but I seriously doubt it. The M1860 I’m sure will as well as amputations. that's a nice video, thanks for the input. I'm going to look them up. well, there ARE tougher bottles, but, the 1845 is quite thin, and did bend. (universal swords 1845 wilkinson, , retails about 150 or so).
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 15, 2020 13:18:44 GMT
that's a nice video, thanks for the input. I'm going to look them up. well, there ARE tougher bottles, but, the 1845 is quite thin, and did bend. (universal swords 1845 wilkinson, , retails about 150 or so). KoA gives the thickness of the P1845 as 7 mm-3 mm. I am aware of some minor variation from sword to sword, but is generally small. My M1860 came 6.1 mm-3.5 mm and I thinned the foible to 2.9 making it 6.1 mm-2.9 mm. At some point in the future I plan to thin more. FWIW the other two are: M1840 4.7 mm-3.2 mm and M1902 6.4 mm-3.9 mm. As for tougher bottles I used what I had on hand, left overs from what I consumed from what is available. PS I find containers made of card stock more difficult to cut than plastic. Drink cans are nothing, the trick here is not to topple them, something I did with both #2 cuts. When I get more I’ll tidy up that cut. I hadn’t been having a problem. It must be the camera’s fault. 😁 And it should go without saying, the M1860 sabre at 2¼ lbs is not a light sword. I threw that in to show what the extra weight, if you are willing to put up with it, will do.
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Post by Lord Newport on Aug 15, 2020 14:39:19 GMT
I don't think anybody makes a light saber. Its all Hollywood special effects. My first thought as well...
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Post by Dandelion on Aug 15, 2020 15:09:50 GMT
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 15, 2020 15:40:06 GMT
I had to read some of TSM's posts to get what he was thinking. I thought it was one of those Hollywood light beam sabres also. At 2½ lbs I'd say the CS Polish jobby is heavy.
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LeMal
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Post by LeMal on Aug 15, 2020 23:40:50 GMT
I had to read some of TSM's posts to get what he was thinking. I thought it was one of those Hollywood light beam sabres also. At 2½ lbs I'd say the CS Polish jobby is heavy. Yeah. I came to appreciate it considerably more when I realized it handles a lot like my couple of modern repro Scottish baskethilts, and can (should!) be use similarly. Wish I'd hung on to mine, though I would have wanted the grip redone to have a more pronounced "heel," to work with the thumb ring in securing the grip. But definitely not a "light" sabre--rather, to me, a "broadsword" in disguise. (The use of which though, tbh, would fit with the kit of a well-armored Polish hussar.)
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