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Post by tsmspace on Apr 17, 2020 17:35:06 GMT
There are some general rules and striking with the CoP is one. However, there are some exceptions depending in part on technique, target, blade, etc. And at times some experimentation is required to find the sweet spot. For an example take Condor’s Engineering Bolo. I have one and it’s a beast and I don’t use it often but when I do I’m glad I have one. Due to the fact I don’t use it often sometimes it takes a few hits for me to adjust. My tendency is to slice with it nearer the tip or with the apex of the pot belly. It works much better using the spot the red line indicates with a slight pulling action. It then ploughs through whatever. I think it’s because that spot puts more mass on the far side pushing it through. Another is my M1902 repro sabre. Normally I’d use the CoP on a sabre and on light, soft targets that works on the one also. By the time I get up to 1 gallon round bleach bottles that sabre peters out. But when moving out to the tip it will zip through. Maybe that's why a yatagan has less belly, so that the area that is angled right to pull with is further towards the tip. So, you have less power, because there is less weight beyond the point of impact, but you have higher speed, and the target is generally softer (people not wood), so it's ok if the chopping power is less, you are hoping to cut fabric and people. I was playing with my mall ninja red sword again last night, on some cardboard boxes, and I would describe exactly the same instructions for the deepest cuts as your bolo. I have like a kopis or falcata mall-ninja sword, and that works somehow differently. I find that I mostly still hit or cut with the top side of the belly as in a normal straight blade. |
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 17, 2020 23:17:29 GMT
Distal taper becomes much less relevant, if not totally irrelevant, with blades that are much less than two feet long.
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Post by Lord Newport on Apr 18, 2020 1:34:43 GMT
Distal taper becomes much less relevant, if not totally irrelevant, with blades that are much less than two feet long. It's a very good point. I was thinking of wall hangers in general as opposed to the OP's specific blades. |
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Post by tsmspace on Apr 18, 2020 3:25:49 GMT
Distal taper becomes much less relevant, if not totally irrelevant, with blades that are much less than two feet long. It's a very good point. I was thinking of wall hangers in general as opposed to the OP's specific blades. I would argue that's not true, because exactly the taper of even a knife is important, although with the shorter "funswords" that are so thin (basically equal thickness everywhere, being "sheet metal" swords), you will end up needing to maintain full thickness right to the end. actually, once the whole piece is so thin, the distal taper specifically should be zero, like on purpose,,, as in it still is a crucial design consideration, and operational consideration. and I know it's not what most people will necessarily argue, but I will just now argue that the sheet metal "funswords" are really good in some ways that traditional swords are not, despite the areas that they lack,,,, once you are using such a small sword anyway, they have a decent edge, are super low maintenance and super care-free in handling,,,, they are great when you want to be laissez-faire, low risk, but still sword. also they're 20$. |
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Post by tsmspace on Apr 18, 2020 5:06:16 GMT
There are some general rules and striking with the CoP is one. However, there are some exceptions depending in part on technique, target, blade, etc. And at times some experimentation is required to find the sweet spot. For an example take Condor’s Engineering Bolo. I have one and it’s a beast and I don’t use it often but when I do I’m glad I have one. Due to the fact I don’t use it often sometimes it takes a few hits for me to adjust. My tendency is to slice with it nearer the tip or with the apex of the pot belly. It works much better using the spot the red line indicates with a slight pulling action. It then ploughs through whatever. I think it’s because that spot puts more mass on the far side pushing it through. Another is my M1902 repro sabre. Normally I’d use the CoP on a sabre and on light, soft targets that works on the one also. By the time I get up to 1 gallon round bleach bottles that sabre peters out. But when moving out to the tip it will zip through. I think today I became certain that it also is much more powerful of a cut (with the red sabre) to position the target (or anyway my body in relation to the target) so that the target is nearly in the beginning of my swing. (so to cut parallel to the ground without throwing the bottle, I need to really turn to the side, so that the start of my swing is a stretch, and I hit the target almost at the beginning of the swing). it was really quite a difference just now, from trying to hit it square and centered. |
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Post by Dandelion on Apr 19, 2020 9:24:34 GMT
It's a very good point. I was thinking of wall hangers in general as opposed to the OP's specific blades. I would argue that's not true, because exactly the taper of even a knife is important, although with the shorter "funswords" that are so thin (basically equal thickness everywhere, being "sheet metal" swords), you will end up needing to maintain full thickness right to the end. actually, once the whole piece is so thin, the distal taper specifically should be zero, like on purpose,,, as in it still is a crucial design consideration, and operational consideration. and I know it's not what most people will necessarily argue, but I will just now argue that the sheet metal "funswords" are really good in some ways that traditional swords are not, despite the areas that they lack,,,, once you are using such a small sword anyway, they have a decent edge, are super low maintenance and super care-free in handling,,,, they are great when you want to be laissez-faire, low risk, but still sword. also they're 20$. "low risk" Jesus. Christ. |
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Post by Lord Newport on Apr 19, 2020 19:08:36 GMT
I would argue that's not true, because exactly the taper of even a knife is important, although with the shorter "funswords" that are so thin (basically equal thickness everywhere, being "sheet metal" swords), you will end up needing to maintain full thickness right to the end. actually, once the whole piece is so thin, the distal taper specifically should be zero, like on purpose,,, as in it still is a crucial design consideration, and operational consideration. and I know it's not what most people will necessarily argue, but I will just now argue that the sheet metal "funswords" are really good in some ways that traditional swords are not, despite the areas that they lack,,,, once you are using such a small sword anyway, they have a decent edge, are super low maintenance and super care-free in handling,,,, they are great when you want to be laissez-faire, low risk, but still sword. also they're 20$. "low risk" Jesus. Christ. I thought the same thing. Too bad no group collects data on sword injuries and deaths around the country/world. It might be eye opening... |
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Post by tsmspace on Apr 20, 2020 1:06:15 GMT
"low risk" Jesus. Christ. I thought the same thing. Too bad no group collects data on sword injuries and deaths around the country/world. It might be eye opening... right but we want to chop bottles and pool noodles, and have interesting collections,,, so maybe not have all kinds of chopped up people be the thing, basically. anyway I'm pretty sure most of the really ugly injuries will be from attacks, not accidents. There will be some gruesome accidents no doubt, but overall I think the real gross injuries will be from attacks, like machete attacks. So I don't mean they are safe if you are attacked with them. I mean if you are careful and don't abuse them (like destructive testing) then you should be safe to chop bottles with them,,, if you are safe about it, like careful and aware of the potential harm they can cause. If you are attacked with them, you will be severely harmed. |
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Post by tsmspace on Apr 20, 2020 1:07:16 GMT
I would argue that's not true, because exactly the taper of even a knife is important, although with the shorter "funswords" that are so thin (basically equal thickness everywhere, being "sheet metal" swords), you will end up needing to maintain full thickness right to the end. actually, once the whole piece is so thin, the distal taper specifically should be zero, like on purpose,,, as in it still is a crucial design consideration, and operational consideration. and I know it's not what most people will necessarily argue, but I will just now argue that the sheet metal "funswords" are really good in some ways that traditional swords are not, despite the areas that they lack,,,, once you are using such a small sword anyway, they have a decent edge, are super low maintenance and super care-free in handling,,,, they are great when you want to be laissez-faire, low risk, but still sword. also they're 20$. "low risk" Jesus. Christ. I mean like, they won't be damaged by mucking around with them, and if they are damaged, it was only 20$, nothing to cry about. Other swords you might be concerned about damaging the blade, or marring the beauty. |
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Post by Lord Newport on Apr 20, 2020 1:14:27 GMT
"low risk" Jesus. Christ. I mean like, they won't be damaged by mucking around with them, and if they are damaged, it was only 20$, nothing to cry about. Other swords you might be concerned about damaging the blade, or marring the beauty. Thanks for the clarification. Negates my comment above.  |
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Post by tsmspace on Apr 29, 2020 5:01:40 GMT
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Post by MOK on Apr 29, 2020 9:40:13 GMT
So... draw cut, rather than straight chop?
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Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Apr 29, 2020 10:41:34 GMT
Yeah... you're talking about a slicing, drawing motion as opposed to a percussive chop. Which, yes, will help with something like a bottle. If you were cutting green wood, live bone, or your target was more immobilized, you'd want more of a chop. |
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Post by tsmspace on Apr 30, 2020 16:06:38 GMT
So... draw cut, rather than straight chop? but i cant catch, then slice, it needs to move through the bottle before the bottle moves. so pretty unnatural. |
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Post by tsmspace on Apr 30, 2020 16:08:00 GMT
Yeah... you're talking about a slicing, drawing motion as opposed to a percussive chop. Which, yes, will help with something like a bottle. If you were cutting green wood, live bone, or your target was more immobilized, you'd want more of a chop. right if the object is going to stay there chopping works. i still feel its not efficient but i can get in. (so downward chop works) |
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