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Post by vlad4th on Mar 11, 2020 21:55:31 GMT
Used the Accusharp to put an edge on my Windlass Arbedo. A lot of people do not like the Accusharp and for good reasons but if used properly it can yield some pretty nice results. The most important thing you can do is take your time and do not apply too much pressure. USE A VISE OR CLAMP TO HELP KEEP STEADY. Switching between right and left hands at intravels is a good idea as well to get an even uniform edge on your sword. I would do 10 strokes with my right hand then 10 strokes with my left hand. Another important point is to stop sharpening over sections once the edge reviles it's self in that spot. If you sharpen too much in one spot it can cause an ugly dip in thinner parts of the blade where the Accusharp too off too much steel. Once the edge reviles it's self leave that aria alone and concentrate on the blunt spots until they go away and an edge appears. I pretty much stopped once the glint from the flat non sharpened edge was gone. This does leave a secondary bevel BUT historically swords some times had them there where diffrent grades of swords back then just like today with makers of different skill levels. I think the secondary bevel is just fine on an ordinary looking soldiers sword like the Windlass Arbedo and would be a really robust edge for military use. I finished up with a Diamond hone with 600 grit and 800 grit sides as the Accusharp leaves a kind of a rough edge and a few burrs. I will also say that this method is not foe every sword. I choose to use it here because the Arbedo has a thin cross section and therefore has a thinner secondary bevel where as a Thicker sword may cut poorly with this bevel and need a fully con vexed edge. Also please DO NOT use this on your 1,000 dollar Albion...
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Post by randomnobody on Mar 11, 2020 23:15:18 GMT
Accusharp and similar devices are great for installing an edge bevel where one does not exist, and while the end result is often sufficient for most things, those with greater demands now have most of the work done for them.
I used an Accusarp type device on my Windlass "Viking Dirk" years ago and while I would like to eventually clean up the bevels, the edge is serviceable as-is and plenty sharp for my needs.
There are swords that shouldn't have secondary bevels, and for those I would suggest either staying away from Accusharp etc or being prepared to clean up the results with stones or sandpaper.
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Post by vlad4th on Mar 11, 2020 23:21:35 GMT
Yeah I agree there are places it should be used and places it should not. I will never touch this sword with the accusharp again it was just to get a bevel going. I cleaned up the edge with a diamond hone and from now on it will just be touched up with stones. Using the accusharp all the time would whittle down your sword.
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Post by illustry on Mar 12, 2020 3:12:09 GMT
Accusharp leaves a rough edge bevel with lots of grooving across the axis of the cross section. Not good. I used it on several swords before I got a belt grinder, but would never use it again, save for the apocalypse; ie, "in a pinch".
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Post by MOK on Mar 12, 2020 6:10:49 GMT
I used to do this, myself, but I prefer draw filing, these days. It requires less cleanup, so IME doesn't end up taking significantly more time or effort for the same or better result, plus you have far more control over the edge geometry (although I suppose that's a negative if you don't trust yourself with that control, but that's what practice is for).
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Post by vlad4th on Mar 12, 2020 23:40:46 GMT
I have done some pretty good cuts with it today. I may still go over it with a file but for now the accusharpening the the 800 grit diamond hone did just fine. Sword cuts 2 liter bottles pretty good with little resistance when I strike them. Two handed cuts seem to be pretty easy to accomplish with the Arbedo. I think I may get the Saint Michael falchion from Windlass next it seems to have the same build quality as the Arbedo.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Mar 13, 2020 1:40:18 GMT
I use to use an Accusharp as a starter to break the square corners and to reduce the thickness of blades near the edge but always switch off to sandpaper in order to get a smoother finish with a convex edge, never on some swords such as a katana though. Now I use a belt sander. A Accusharp worked fine for restoring an edge to a machete during a work session.
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