pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Jan 18, 2020 21:45:56 GMT
It’s been an eventful day; the DoD gloves I ordered arrived and I spent an interesting time cutting, without the gloves. The cutting started out comparing my Windlass M1860 OM against Universal’s M1902 sabre. I had reduced the M1860’s foible from 3.5 mm to 2.9 mm and hadn’t given it a good workout since. I noticed no difference in the statistics and just picking it up felt the same although once I put in in action dry handling it seem to feel better. I like the way the M1860 now handles and have upgraded it from a $300 wall hanger to now a functional sword that I enjoy. The M1902 still remains a questionable purchase. It handles great but I’m not impressed with its cutting ability or power, not that it’s impotent, it will cut and thrust, but I have other swords that I have more faith in. While comparing those two I remembered the CS Backsword that I have hanging over my headboard and fetched that. It out did the M1860 considering all. Then Windlass’ M1840 NCO, a favourite of mine, came to light so out it came also to compare it to the M1902. The CS Backsword will remain at my headboard, saying it all. The M1860 has moved up in status to something that I now like. I’ll use it more often and would feel comfortable with it in a tight. The M1840 NCO out does the M1902 and is a serious contender for being in a tight. The M1902 has better hand protection and the grip is more comfortable. The cutting is about the same although early on I experienced torqueing with the M1902 and since have moved the cutting more towards the tip. M1840 overshadows it when coming to speed, handling, and thrusting ability. I made a dent in my target inventory but it will grow back. I guess the big thing here is how much difference a few tenths of a millimetre can make. Still on the tentative To-Do list is changing the tip to a spear point, sharpening the false edge, and possibly narrowing the foible farther. Now for a grog and siesta. It’s been a fun morning.
|
|
AndiTheBarvarian
Member
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 9,881
Member is Online
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 19, 2020 17:17:12 GMT
I think the biggest problem of the 1860 Officers is that the fullers aren't deep enough. I assume they did this due to the etching/stamping on the blade. My 1906 has longer and deeper fullers. How does the 1902 compare to your Marines NCO saber?
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Jan 19, 2020 19:15:51 GMT
Dang! I went back today intending to cut only with the M1860 and was disappointed, maybe just an off day. But at the end since the M1902 was laying on the table waiting to be taped before returning it, so what the heck. I took that one out and it preformed beautifully. The M1860 is the more powerful of the two without a doubt. After swinging that for a while the M1902 felt lighter than usual and had the speed and agility all over the M1860 along with better point control, the blade is slightly straighter and the spear point helps to out penetrate the M1860.
As for the M1860’s fullers; I find fullers are not a virtue with Windlass as they are normally on the shallow side and always washed out, and the M1860 is no exception. The fullers on the USMC NCO and M1902 are both deeper and better defined.
|
|
AndiTheBarvarian
Member
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 9,881
Member is Online
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 19, 2020 19:31:19 GMT
The 1860 Officer's is a good axe and as a sword it makes all other saber repros shine!
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Jan 19, 2020 20:08:36 GMT
The 1860 Officer's is a good axe and as a sword it makes all other saber repros shine! :D So that’s why the M1902 felt so good today. Hehehe
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Aug 29, 2020 17:38:05 GMT
An update FIW. I reduced the foible a little more taking it down to 2.8 mm and sharpened the false edge. It was during the later part that I discovered the two sides not symmetrical, an issue that I’ve encountered on Windlass blades before. One side is flatter than the other. The apex of the more rounded side is above the centreline and therefore not noticed when sharpening the true edge. I repolished the blade stopping with 600 grit. At that point the factory finish and mine blended. I made no special attempt to resharpen and it turned out newspaper cutting sharp and the tip is noticeably more effective. Just got through making some quick cuts, I couldn’t resist. The first cut was at a litre card stock milk carton. I came in a tad high, an ongoing problem I have, and caught the carton near the top in the area of multiple folds. It went through five plies of card stock initially to halve the free standing container. I repeated the thrust test and it did better. The original attempts the sword penetrated 3 of the 4 required rugs before holing the jug. This time it passed through the required 4 rugs and left a generous 1¼” hole in the front panel, but failed to exit. Future plans are to flatten the bowed side and thereby reducing the thickness more but that is for another day(s). The sword is improving. My original opinion when dry handling it after first receiving it was “S-H-!-!-!-T-T”. And it remained in the rack a long time. Now with the modified grip and blade it’s more than usable, not bad as a backyard cutter. But I find it a bit slow, especially for altering a strike once committed making it not my first choice for combat. At the same time I find it an excellent cutter. The top of the milk carton.
|
|