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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 15:56:16 GMT
I am sure some of you have seen the scabbard making resource listed above from Ye Olde Gaffers, which builds from some of Peter Johnsson's work. It focuses on three distinct historic methods for scabbard making: carved bookmarked ends, warped slats, and the slot method. Each method has its pros and cons, and I would argue that no single method is superior to the other.
The bookmarked ends method involves a lot of hand work, time, and patience, which is probably why it is the most expensive way of making a scabbard.
The slats method is inexpensive, but involves lots of glue, linen wraps, leather wraps, and soaking the wood slats to make them bend into shape.
The slot method is the easiest to execute and is historical, but results in a thicker and heavier scabbard core.
Each method depicted in this tutorial is finished with a leather wrap. Despite the prominence and popularity of leather, we know that linen and other fabrics were popular choices for scabbard wraps. Charlemagne had a sword wrapped with white linen with cross cutouts revealing a beautiful red color underneath. Some scabbards were lined with wool felt, fur, and other organic materials to wick away moisture and ensure a good fit.
What I have always wondered is how often were scabbards unfinished? That is, how often were scabbards completed without wrapping the exterior in leather or fabric? How often was the intent to display the beauty of wood? I am specifically interested in Medieval European sword scabbards. The only true wood scabbards I see in the Medieval sword replica market are made for Dark Age and Early Medieval sword replicas, i.e. Viking swords. I suppose the raw wood has a more rustic aesthetic suited best for the great chopping blades from that period.
What types of methods do you prefer?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 16:09:02 GMT
Here is another good resource:
I commented in another thread about tannins discoloring or rusting steel. I may have heard about it from Tod. So don't use oak or chestnut!
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stormmaster
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I like viking/migration era swords
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Post by stormmaster on Nov 2, 2019 16:16:52 GMT
good ol poplar is the scabbard wood of choice for many
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 16:51:02 GMT
For the benefit of the forum, here is a short list of common domestic hardwoods (US and Canada) with their respective tannin properties. Bear in mind that there is variety within the same species.
Low tannin content: maple, ash, hickory, poplar, birch, holly, basswood.
High tannin content: oak, walnut, mahogany (rare in the US), chestnut (rare in the US), cedar, fir, redwood, pine.
A good rule of thumb is to stick with light colored hardwoods and with the tried and true. Storm is correct: poplar is the way to go. It's a sure thing. Also, when in doubt, buy wood that is kiln dried. Fresher cuts of wood have higher concentrations of tannins.
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stormmaster
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I like viking/migration era swords
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Post by stormmaster on Nov 2, 2019 16:56:22 GMT
lining the inside of the scabbard also helps
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 17:01:22 GMT
lining the inside of the scabbard also helps It was seldom done historically, but it was common, yes. It helps wick away moisture and it helps provide some grip to the blade in the event that the scabbard core is a little loose. You can also ebonize wood by forcing a patina onto the wood via a chemical reaction with the tannins. This really only applies to wood with a higher tannin content. It creates a natural finish and somewhat ameliorates the issue with tannins, but it is an extra step that involves more time, and time is money.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 17:03:33 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 17:05:38 GMT
Imo, the veener slats are the way to go.
My next wood scabbard would my first.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 17:08:39 GMT
Imo, the veener slats are the way to go. My next wood scabbard would my first. Is that because of the fit that is achieved by this method, or is it because of the relative ease of this type of construction?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 20:30:25 GMT
Another great resource:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2019 20:50:50 GMT
Imo, the veener slats are the way to go. My next wood scabbard would my first. Is that because of the fit that is achieved by this method, or is it because of the relative ease of this type of construction? Both
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Post by leviathansteak on Nov 3, 2019 5:18:22 GMT
Something I don't understand about the veneer method. Since you soak the wood to soften it, wouldnt the moisture rust your blade?
Im not sure if a thick coat of oil wiuld be sufficient to keep the blade safe till everything dries
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Post by MOK on Nov 3, 2019 9:08:39 GMT
Something I don't understand about the veneer method. Since you soak the wood to soften it, wouldnt the moisture rust your blade? Im not sure if a thick coat of oil wiuld be sufficient to keep the blade safe till everything dries A thick coat of oil doesn't help with anything that the usual imperceptibly thin one wouldn't; personally I just wrap the sword in cling film when molding moist leather or wood over it, and you could use petroleum jelly under the film instead of oil if you wanted to be extra safe. Of course you should clean the blade afterwards, in any case. If you do a lot of this sort of thing it might be worthwhile to make a proper mold instead of McGyvering one from the sword itself. ![:)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Nov 3, 2019 12:13:57 GMT
I've done that in the past when making wet-molded knife scabbards. Vaseline and cling wrap works great. I then used two old pillow cases full of cat litter as a sandwich base for forming the leather. The cat litter actually speeds up the drying.
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Post by wstalcup on Nov 9, 2019 20:52:10 GMT
interesting! i wish i saw this link before i made my own.. there is one "other" method.. the "half-assed" method i invented! ![:)](//storage.forums.net/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) using split wooden dowels, dental floss and paperclips..LOL still came out ok and really the paperclips helped support the scabbard and sword on the belt a lot and even are off-set to help the scabbard tip forward a bit as opposed to straight down. sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/59089/own-scabbard
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