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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2008 21:16:50 GMT
Hello everyone,
I have recently purchased a Valiant Armories Angus Trim Practical Longsword. I am enjoying the sword very much and would recommend it to anyone looking for a tough, historically plausible, aesthetically sound beater.
I'm not sure whether or not this topic belongs in another forum-perhaps the "do-it-yourself" forum.... please move it if it is not in the appropriate forum.
I think I would prefer if the sword where slightly less whippy, and a bit less blade-heavy. In other words, I want the blade to have a little more distal taper. One of the main differences between the AT304 and the original Angus Trim on which it is based, is that the Valiant sword has a diamond cross-section at the tip while the Angus Trim original has a lenticular cross-section.
I am wondering if it would be a good idea to attempt to change this with a file. Would it make a noticeable difference in terms of: a) the tip-heaviness of the sword b) the whippyness of the sword c) the sword's cutting performance
Has anyone done this or thought about it with this particular sword (or any other, for that matter)?
If I were to attempt this, what kind of sand-paper would I need to return the finish of the blade to its original condition? How much material would I want to shave off in order to improve the handling?
Would doing this have a significant effect?
Thank you all in advance for helping me out. Carlisle
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Post by ShooterMike on Jul 28, 2008 21:23:36 GMT
I have two of these swords. One was bought from Valiant Armoury for review. The other is an overweight one that was sent by VA to Gus Trim to be worked over. I bought the second one from Gus after he'd done exactly the modification you're suggesting. It made such a significant improvement that I sent the first one to Gus and he reground it as well. The improvement to the second sword was exactly what you asked about.
In answer to your questions about performance, removing the unneeded weight from the tip and improving the distal taper made the blade less whippy, made it handle a LOT better, and also made it cut significantly better.
Everything Gus did was on the grinder. I don't see any reason you couldn't do the same with hand files and sanding pads. Just make sure to keep the geometry straight and it should work fine.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2008 21:33:20 GMT
Thank you very much for the prompt reply, Mike.
I'm going to do it, and I will try to make it look exactly like the picture from your review comparing the 304 to the 1566.
How fine a grit paper will I need to work up to after the filing? Would 400 be enough?
I wonder why Sonny hasn't changed the plan accordingly....I guess doing that grinding is just one extra step and cannot really be expected on a sub $300 sword.
Thanks again.
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Post by ShooterMike on Jul 29, 2008 14:16:15 GMT
You're welcome. 400 grit will match the finish just about right. Then go over the whole blade with steel wool for the final finish.
The original specs called for a lenticular blade cross section. But the forge got it wrong. Sonny told me he was going to have it done right if/when he does another run of these.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 1, 2008 17:32:26 GMT
I reground my VA Atrim ( as well as cut down the blade and peen it). Let me say it was good sword before and is now excellent. My grinding work probably doesn't look as good as Gusses but it works very well. Good luck on the project.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2008 6:56:39 GMT
Marty what did you use to grind yours? I'm thinking I may do it to mine if it makes a significant difference but I'm guessing taking a bench grinder to it is probably not a good idea.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2008 8:31:16 GMT
I used a dremel and a small grinding wheel, I I did some fine tuning with a small round file. If i were to do it again. I'd use just a file ( I put a small gouge in it with the wheel), just work slowly and check it every few strokes.
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