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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2008 22:08:27 GMT
I would like to modify my future Cold steel wakizashi with full length tsuka but I want to make sure that it will be safe . I am concern that since the tang will not extend down to the bottom part of tsuka that area will be weak and might break during cutting . I want a short lenght blade that I can wield with 2 hands.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2008 4:23:19 GMT
I'm running into the same issue with some of my projects. At first, I was going to use red oak for my new tsuka cores and keep them solid past where the nakago ends. But, I later found out that oak is weak in the thinner regions of the tsuka, where it surounds the nakago. There has been some good talk about maple as a strong substitute to ho wood, but I can't swear by it as I haven't used it myself yet. Maybe someone else here like Brenno or Brian of roninswords could provide some more concrete info on this. Good luck ! By the way, if you haven't purchased the wakizashi yet, have you considered a ko-katana ?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2008 18:43:02 GMT
Ikaito I think Ko-katana might be a way to go (and much more safer ). I came across this wakizashi with huge discount price and I want to put it away for future project .I better hold off on the purchase and do more research on this modification .
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2008 4:08:23 GMT
Why not check this out ? sbg-sword-buyers-guide.com/shura-ko-katana.html 21 inch blade, 10.5 inch tsuka. Price: $189.99 It's a cheness ko-katana, which from what I understand, beats cold steel hands down for quality. I'm not a salesman here, just trying to help out. I own an iaito from cheness, and the quality really surprised me.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2008 13:45:04 GMT
I'm running into the same issue with some of my projects. At first, I was going to use red oak for my new tsuka cores and keep them solid past where the nakago ends. But, I later found out that oak is weak in the thinner regions of the tsuka, where it surounds the nakago. There has been some good talk about maple as a strong substitute to ho wood, but I can't swear by it as I haven't used it myself yet. Maybe someone else here like Brenno or Brian of roninswords could provide some more concrete info on this. Good luck ! By the way, if you haven't purchased the wakizashi yet, have you considered a ko-katana ? I am assuming you are in the US by my recommendation, but you would be pretty safe to use Hickory wood. It is readily available in the US and is what a lot of wooden tool handles are made from. It's very strong and can take the blows. Forget red oak, it makes a great coffee table but you can't really rely on it for a weapons sake.
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Post by kidcasanova on Jul 29, 2008 2:17:22 GMT
I'm running into the same issue with some of my projects. At first, I was going to use red oak for my new tsuka cores and keep them solid past where the nakago ends. But, I later found out that oak is weak in the thinner regions of the tsuka, where it surounds the nakago. There has been some good talk about maple as a strong substitute to ho wood, but I can't swear by it as I haven't used it myself yet. Maybe someone else here like Brenno or Brian of roninswords could provide some more concrete info on this. Good luck ! By the way, if you haven't purchased the wakizashi yet, have you considered a ko-katana ? I am assuming you are in the US by my recommendation, but you would be pretty safe to use Hickory wood. It is readily available in the US and is what a lot of wooden tool handles are made from. It's very strong and can take the blows. Forget red oak, it makes a great coffee table but you can't really rely on it for a weapons sake. Dunno, Red Oak makes a decent longbow, in all honesty.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2008 5:12:16 GMT
Why not check this out ? sbg-sword-buyers-guide.com/shura-ko-katana.html 21 inch blade, 10.5 inch tsuka. Price: $189.99 It's a cheness ko-katana, which from what I understand, beats cold steel hands down for quality. I'm not a salesman here, just trying to help out. I own an iaito from cheness, and the quality really surprised me. Thanks for the info. I don't know how I miss this one , the spec is spot on , wakizashi lenght blade with full length tsuka and a lot more affordable .
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2008 9:18:31 GMT
Awesome ! Glad I could help Kidcasanova, red oak might work well in thicker pieces, like in a bow. But, it does like to split or snap when it's thin. I tried making tsuka cores out of the stuff twice before I gave up. Both times it cracked at the ha region of the nakago. Maybe I just got a bad batch ? It still makes for a mighty nice boken, though. ;D Chopchop, I will look into using hickory. Thanks for the tip !
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Post by kidcasanova on Jul 30, 2008 5:08:07 GMT
It's possible the wood was seasoned improperly, was overly dry, the grain was warped, etc. Any number of things could have caused the wood to crack. I've not heard of Red Oak being unsuitable for thinner applications (as it's used in many other, non-weapons related things). When used as a bow wood, it does need to be backed, either with linen, sinew, or another wood. I prefer woods such as Yew, Osage Orange, Hickory, and Ipe (the last two of which are the main woods in my longbow). Oops, I didn't mean to derail the thread here. Dont mind me.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 30, 2008 20:43:41 GMT
While red oak is strong stuff, I would probably stay with hickory, or maby Ash if you can get it. Oddly enough I just split my red oak bokken yesterday, so now its time to make a new one I guess
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