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Post by aqw955 on Jul 25, 2008 0:43:40 GMT
first... sorry, i will try my best to describe this.
so.. I found out that the thread rod has only one side (or half) carved into a screw. the other side seems to have tracks made by the hex nut... is that a new measure?
I am currently charing the battery of my camera. there will be a picture posted soon.
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Post by ShooterMike on Jul 29, 2008 17:46:24 GMT
What sword is this? Do you have any pictures?
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Post by aqw955 on Aug 2, 2008 8:31:04 GMT
oh... I have forgotten to check this post..sorry it is an AT1415...
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Aug 2, 2008 12:10:59 GMT
That seems to be the result of not starting the thread cut off nice and perpendicular. You can see it moves across as it goes down. It's fed on crooked - clearly seen in the left edge in the right photo.
Also the stock may have been slightly too narrow for the thread. For example if I cut a 1/4" thread I'll only grind down to about .270", as I know the cutter will take the rest off. Will it be strong enough? I can't tell you for sure.
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Post by hotspur on Aug 2, 2008 13:59:28 GMT
Considering these do not take a lot of torque to be properly tightened, aside from the perceived aesthetic, it is a non-issue. It may also have been a minor compensation in grinding to make sure things ended up in-line. If the pommel is way off center when assembled, that would be more of a concern. If the centerlines of the blade, pommel and grip all line up, it should be just fine. I have an A&A with a slightly off center grip and while irksome if I pay attention to it in viewing, has had absolutely no impact on the functional or handling aspects of the sword.
Out of curiousity, did you buy this direct from Gus, through Christian Fletcher, or on the secondary market?
Both my ATrims are from before the hex wrench nuts became a standard issue. Both needed a small amount of tightening after a bit of use (the shoulders do settle in the crosses. I do not use thread lock of any variety and continuing loosenes has not been an issue. I would suggest not using thread lock until you have given it a chance to settle and snugged it up a couple of times. if it continues to be an issue and you are sure you have been tightening enough (but not killing it) then Loc-Tite or something like fingernail polish, plumbers tape or dope might make you feel secure.
Don't kill these when tightening. Eighth turn increments past snug until the grip and cross will not move by hand and the blade is ringing. A quarter to half turn past snug should usually do it. The grip wrap is another element that made need to settle as it squishes. Climatizing can also cause loosness.
Cheers
Hotspur; these aren't really meant to be taken apart all the time on a routine basis. Just because you can, doesn't mean you need to very often
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Post by aqw955 on Aug 2, 2008 19:53:06 GMT
thanks for your concern.. the sword is tight.. I was not aware of this for the first few time I checked the sword.
when I tighten the nut on the threaded rod.. the nut is shifted to one side.. although it is still straight, they do not line up in the center.. however, the hole in the pommel seems to be big enough for the shift; the nut almost touches one part of the hole, and results in a bigger gap on the opposite side of the nut..
btw, it is a first-handed..
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Post by hotspur on Aug 3, 2008 20:06:34 GMT
To be honest, I have not seen any of the later ATrim swords in person, only what gets shared on the various forums. I do know the tolerances on mine are pretty close (hole to nut) and the handlful of others I was seeing at gatherings back in 2002/2003 where well fitted. Some of those were CF upgrades, so often may have been more exact because of it. If this was of fairly recent build, it could also reflect some of the trials Gus has been going through. To me it seems a case of just trying to save a blade that may have started a little off during the finish grinding process and he had to adjust a little by the time the threads got cut.
I'm not familiar with how he batches his work (as many who grind do) but I am pretty sure he is doing all the stages himself. Program and load the cnc(s), trips to the heat treater and shipper(s). Turning out grips crosses and pommels. It has been a busy year for him and I'm not sure that he has any shop help these days.
I know he has been pushing to be free of other contract work so that he can concentrate on the swords but he has had a tough row to hoe. I really hope it pulls together for him this year so that enthusiasts can continue to benefit from the emormous contributions he makes to the overall progress of the industry.
Cheers
Hotspur; sometimes it just ain't easy
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Post by waltznjack on Aug 10, 2008 22:30:03 GMT
Just guessing but it sounds like the half without threads is used by the nut to cut the threads and the half with threads is used to guide the nut while it screws on and cuts the threads. This and I am guessing here sounds like a measure to ensure tightness.
I think the sword manufacturers are beginning to wise up that people want quality because they actually use swords. While those who bought swords previously just hung them on the wall and if the blade didn't break when the sword fell off the wall they were lucky.
Anyway, I am willing to bet that the handle will not loosen up because of the tight fit. (Or the manufacturer just had a royal screwup?)
Waltznjack and his harmonica
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