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Post by whiteshield on May 14, 2019 12:32:21 GMT
Which would you get? A katana in 5160 or 1060?
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Post by shobutengu on May 14, 2019 12:39:42 GMT
What type of heat treatment ? DH or TH for both? For strength and durability I would go with 5160 but if you want a hamon I would go with 1060.
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Post by Lancelot Chan on May 14, 2019 12:40:00 GMT
5160
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Post by Silent on May 14, 2019 12:46:22 GMT
For usage 5160 TH, but it all depends on who makes them.
You have to tell us which products are you thinking about.
Beetween a 1060 from decent maker and a 5160 for unknow forge, surely the 1060...
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reptaronice1
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Post by reptaronice1 on May 15, 2019 5:05:28 GMT
Which would you get? A katana in 5160 or 1060? For durability I would get the 5160. Just a point is that a hamon is not always vibrant on a 1060 as it would be on 1095. I would wait to get a 1095 if u want a hamon. 5160 Has some silicon added to it so that it will bounce back into shape. 1060 is a good mix of edge retention and hardness but may bend slightly easier than 5160. (They are both 60% Carbon btw just one has silicon added)
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reptaronice1
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Post by reptaronice1 on May 15, 2019 5:06:21 GMT
What type of heat treatment ? DH or TH for both? For strength and durability I would go with 5160 but if you want a hamon I would go with 1060. I rarely see a hamon on 1060 from the forges I have looked at. I would wait for a 1095 or T10 for a hamon. Just my thought.
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Post by shobutengu on May 15, 2019 12:46:58 GMT
What type of heat treatment ? DH or TH for both? For strength and durability I would go with 5160 but if you want a hamon I would go with 1060. I rarely see a hamon on 1060 from the forges I have looked at. I would wait for a 1095 or T10 for a hamon. Just my thought. For 1060 , it’s usually lower budget end swords such as musashi, musha, and Munetoshi that does 1060 DH but the polish they put on those swords doesn’t really bring out the full detail of the hamon. I have seen 1060 and 1050 with crazy metallurgical activities once you get them to a better polish and etched. It’s not that they can’t form good looking hamon but the manufacturers choose to give them bad, mediocre polishes to keep it affordable.
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reptaronice1
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Post by reptaronice1 on May 15, 2019 14:41:58 GMT
I rarely see a hamon on 1060 from the forges I have looked at. I would wait for a 1095 or T10 for a hamon. Just my thought. For 1060 , it’s usually lower budget end swords such as musashi, musha, and Munetoshi that does 1060 DH but the polish they put on those swords doesn’t really bring out the full detail of the hamon. I have seen 1060 and 1050 with crazy metallurgical activities once you get them to a better polish and etched. It’s not that they can’t form good looking hamon but the manufacturers choose to give them bad, mediocre polishes to keep it affordable. Ya and honestly I personally would be more comfortable swinging a 1060 than a 1095 so I would like a nice 1060 with a hamon.
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Post by uchiha998 on May 18, 2019 5:23:14 GMT
I'll say a couple things. First I agree that it metres most if who is making the sword. I would not buy either from Ryansword if the other is available from Hanwei or Munetoshi for example. Second 5160 is generally used for TH. That is true with 1060 these days however if you want a DH above probably the 1060 is a better choice but again it would depend on the maker of the sword. And for a DH blade you would do better to find a 1095 or T10. IMO, these are better steels for DH blades. And it you can find a DH T10 for about the same as any 1060 TH. Consider the Munetoshi water Dragon for $100. And it comes with decent fittings and tsukamaki even compared to a lot of more expensive swords, with alloy fittings or ito that doesn't alternate. Now speaking of Munetoshi, Shobutengu looped them in with Musashi & Musashi as cheaper brands, it is my opinion, that Munetoshi stands far above Musashi or Musha. I have owned many from $100-$200 range and from $200-$450. I'm both those price ranges Munetoshi has much better offerings. For an entry level DH I already mentioned the Water Dragon. The have some nice katana around $250, that 2nd Gen Light Cutter is Amazing. I would recommend a that sword over a Maze of Ronin Dojo pro. And they have a couple others at that price too. There are some even nicer katana at the higher end of what they sell also. Musashi does have higher end offerings but they seem more bling than function to me. I know Shobu wasn't bashing Munetoshi, I just have experience with them and feel they are often overlooked. The polish is not special this is true, it does look better in person than the pics on the sight however. Oh and I believe someone made typo 1060&5160 would be 0.6% carbon. Lol 60% would be insane. Last I would like to ask reptaronice, why do feel more comfortable swinging a 1060 than a 1095? Now if they are both TH I certainly understand but for DH I would much rather have the 1095. Unless Water Sorrel made the 1060DH for example. Honestly I have used some great TH 1060/9260/5160 but on the whole have found higher carbon DH blades much better cutters. I never had an edge roll on a 1095DH or a T10DH but I have more than one Dojo Pro roll an edge once on a soaked newspaper roll another on a thin green bamboo about 1.5" thick. Now to be fair TH I've never seen a Raptor take any edge damage from anything . They are heavy beasts of a sword though. I'm just giving my own experiences and certainly not saying any other opinion posted is wrong, nor am I bashing any companies, I spoke of.
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Post by Cottontail Customs on May 18, 2019 5:43:13 GMT
Through hardened or differential? Hanwei makes some good th blades in 5160 and Dynasty Forge makes the Musha line in th 1060. all very tough swords. Huawei makes great 9260 th blades for $200.
for 5160 with a hamon and a bit higher priced, I'd take a look at a Raw Blades katana.
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