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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2008 17:07:51 GMT
shortly after I got my Windlass 15th c. longsword (several months ago).....I proceeded to gun blue using Birchwood- Casey gun blue (again) the pommel and double -ring guard..... Here were the results..... Cheers, billiam
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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2008 18:36:13 GMT
Very attractive. The more I see of this, the more I'm tempted to try it on one of mine.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jul 21, 2008 13:08:30 GMT
Good work Billiam. +1 for beauty.
I have seen those pics at my armoury some time ago, so I was confused for a few seconds there. They kicked me off of My Armoury coz I posted pics of my own creations. They think I'm self promoting too much. But hey, If I can't share my work then I've got nothing to say, do I? All I do is try to teach anyone who'll listed how to make THEIR OWN swords, but they say thats self promotion.
I like the B/C Perma blue too. You know whats funny. I got this G96 blue and it worked well on my G2, but went crazy on 9260. I did not work at all, the results were disastrous. But the B/C Permablue works great on the 9260. Just in case anyones considering it...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2008 14:24:15 GMT
Thanks Brenno....now I'm slowly working on knocking the super shine off the blade....that's a shame about the myArmoury deal....
Cheers,
billiam
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2008 18:58:05 GMT
Wow! I'm impressed you were able to get such deep color with cold blue. It does look like there's a bit of non uniformity on part of the pommel, but overall it's amazing. As I said in another thread, I haven't had a lot of luck with these processes for the most part; however, I do seem to get slightly better results with Birchwood Casey's Super Blue www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/images/Products/13425_lrg.jpg, which is supposed to be a little more aggressive than Perma Blue.
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Post by chakobsa on Jul 21, 2008 22:20:16 GMT
Billiam, that looks fantastic . I know nothing about gun blue, is it easy to apply? Is it expensive and if I go to my local gunsmiths what exactly do I ask for? Can anyone point me towards a step by step guide?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2008 2:10:19 GMT
I described the application process breifly on my review of the Windlass Schiavona Type2 recently posted. The effects / results were different. Not hard at all to do.....just be patient and as always do a little test piece first...just to get the hang.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2008 23:53:27 GMT
Wow! I'm impressed you were able to get such deep color with cold blue. It does look like there's a bit of non uniformity on part of the pommel, but overall it's amazing. As I said in another thread, I haven't had a lot of luck with these processes for the most part; however, I do seem to get slightly better results with Birchwood Casey's Super Blue www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/images/Products/13425_lrg.jpg, which is supposed to be a little more aggressive than Perma Blue. I used to have trouble getting an even finish when using bluing cream, but I hit upon a solution. Literally ;D I found that when using the creams, I got an uneven streaky finish. This is partly due to the difficulty in applying the paste evenly, and partly because of how fast the reaction takes place. I also find that the paste 'runs out', in that the chemicals seem to get used up and you end up smearing non reactive paste on some areas. The way I do it now is to dissolve a dollop of the paste in boiling water. You don't need much, a teaspoon sized amount in 1/2 pint of water will do just fine. The solution doesn't need to be hot to work, the reason for using boiling water is to help the paste dissolve. Degrease the piece very thoroughly and dip it into the solution, and you'll find that you get a very even finish. If you wipe it vigorously with a cloth, you'll find that a lot of the blue will come off, don't worry, just keep on dipping and cleaning until you're happy. Finish off with an application of gun oil or similar and you're done. A couple of things I've noticed: 1. The type of steel has an enormous effect on how well the finish turns out. It seems to work best on harder tool type steels, and yes I do mean that the hardness of the steel seems to play a part. 2. No matter how hard you try to prevent it, the steel always seems to rust over time, the blue finish turning brown eventually. The cold blue seems to accelerate rusting for some reason. Now I'm not saying this is necessarily a bad thing, as this gives a nice 'patina' effect, but it's something to be aware of. It seems to be very much a surface thing, no pitting, and of course there's nothing stopping you rebluing it. One thing I've been meaning to try is to boil one of these rusted pieces in deionized water to turn it black, as in the rust bluing process.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2008 2:06:06 GMT
That works well for threaded sword as you can get the pieces apart...but for peened swords it's less useful. If you can get the pommel and cross apart, hot blueing is easier and looks better (albeit not safer).
Although for blueing a blade that is a bloody genius idea.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jul 23, 2008 2:52:39 GMT
Great suggestions Drb, thanks. +1
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2008 12:09:51 GMT
That works well for threaded sword as you can get the pieces apart...but for peened swords it's less useful. If you can get the pommel and cross apart, hot blueing is easier and looks better (albeit not safer). Although for blueing a blade that is a bloody genius idea. Yes, hot bluing gives a much better finish. Bluing creams are a bit of a makeshift thing really, and I guess they're only meant for touching up firearms. I did actually use the solution to blue my sword's blade (obviously heating a blade is a no no) and it worked really well. I didn't want a blued blade, but I used it to darken the blade for an aged look. I sanded the blade with 220 grit, blued it, then resanded. It has given the look of a blade that has perhaps been used for many years, but has also been cared for, just a slight greying like what happens to steel over time. I tried to take a photo, but the effect is way too subtle to photograph properly.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2008 16:22:07 GMT
a good patina prescription there Dr........more ammo for the next antique job..
Cheers
billiam
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Post by 293master293 on Jul 27, 2008 7:55:42 GMT
I like it. I also like the irregularities, it gives it character.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2008 15:35:21 GMT
i bought some B/C perma blue and im not having much luck with it... it turns the metal more black than anything else. anyone else have this problem or a solution to it?
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slav
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Post by slav on Jul 28, 2008 15:45:23 GMT
Darkslyde, that's pretty much what it's supposed to do. What specific problems are you encountering?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2008 15:52:00 GMT
well when i used the perma blue with a cloth i got this awsome bright blue, but as soon as the air hit it it turned black. i have blued it with a propane torch with better results would that ruin the heat treat? seen here
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slav
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Post by slav on Jul 28, 2008 16:14:26 GMT
Darkslyde, are you expecting to produce an actualy navy or royal blue finish? Blueing Solution really is meant to turn metal "black". When you see guns with black actions and barrells, they have most likely been blued. The tone is in actuality a reeeealy dark blue color, but for all intents and purposes you can expect a blackened finish, not blue.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2008 16:28:31 GMT
what im looking for is the color seen near the tang in that picture.
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slav
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Post by slav on Jul 28, 2008 16:46:55 GMT
You will not get that with blueing solution. Look at the photos from the Original Post of this thread...blackish, not blue. I'm not sure what to tell ya, other than experiment with tempering.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2008 19:11:43 GMT
with the Perma-Blue one will get a hint of blue in places, but not a totally uniform blue. As I said in the original post, you get different results each time as it doesn't react the same on all metals. The only way to get a somewhat overall blueing effect is by heat treatment (which you would NOT want to do on a blade) or the old vintage method of using mercury as with vintage blue & gilt swords. Examples below... first is my Armour Class mortuary with the basket blued via heat treatment ,but as you can see it's not completely uniform. They explained theat just a small amount of oil (either from hands or from shop surroundings, the blue will not take smoothly) And next an example of vintage blue & gilt....
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