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Post by viece on Mar 31, 2019 23:15:46 GMT
Uhlan is a master at restoration and one to listen to. However, FWTW I did a quick and dirty repair on one of my swords. It was a cutlass and after a while a very slight play developed in the grip that I eliminated surprisingly easy. I slid the washer out of the way and discovered a very small opening between the ricasso and guard, about the size of a pin head or smaller. Out of desperation I put Loctite 242 into this hole. This Loctite has a low surface tension and flows readily, faster than water. I have not experienced the click or play since. A word of warning is in order; I held the tip up griping the sword by its handle while I worked. I poured what I thought was an amazing amount of Loctite in, which wasn’t much as the tube is very small, and it was asking for more. Sensing something wrong I stopped and when I removed my hand it was full of blue Loctite as well as the external part of the grip was flooded. After a few bad words I grab paper towels and started wiping, in near panic stage. It cleaned off easily as I caught it before the 20 minute set up period. It wiped off of everything leaving no trace. I watched carefully for the next ½ hour and nothing more was observed after which I set the sword aside for a couple of hours and gave it a rather easy test and everything appeared tight. So I left it alone with no worry and gave it a good test the following morning and it past. That was months ago and I see no evidence of Loctite having been used and everything still tight, even after several cutting sessions. An additional note if you decide to use Loctite: I don’t know if a couple of drops is best do the job or if it is best to flood the area as I accidentally did allowing the Locktite to flow into every crook, granny, and crevice and clean up the overflow. I suspect the later but in truth will probably vary with the sword. At any rate I suggest paper towels and a toothbrush to be on hand before attempting. Great tips, thank you.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2019 23:26:44 GMT
How loose is loose? Is the washer/bumper seated by the blade shoulders or are you able to gently work the washer up the blade (use a putty knife or similar and it will be tough to start it moving from the looks of it) to work on any perceivable gaps. What does the peen look like? Has it ever been disturbed? if there is only a vague semblance of looseness and the blade is seated upon the bumper, don't mess with the blade end of the fitment (imo). Personally, I would use (slowly and small amounts) runny superglue of your choice in an other hilt crevice or opening you can find. At the guard/grip juncture, at the guard/pommel juncture and grip/pommel juncture. If the peen has already been smashed a few times and the bumper is seated between blade and guard, gentle peening might work but I generally go with glue at those three described points as those are the three main parts that get loose (I see gaps to squirt). Even just glue at the guard/pommel juncture stops a lot of rattles. Organic oils may help moisturize the grip. Keratin responds as your nails do.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Apr 1, 2019 1:39:49 GMT
A low viscosity CA glue aka Krazy, Super Glue amongst other names would be a possibility but any overflow such as I experienced would be extremely hard to clean up. I’ll go one step further, if you hold the grip as I did and the CA glue oozes out between your palm and grip you could be in TROUBLE big time. Just a heads up.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2019 1:58:54 GMT
A low viscosity CA glue aka Krazy, Super Glue amongst other names would be a possibility but any overflow such as I experienced would be extremely hard to clean up. I’ll go one step further, if you hold the grip as I did and the CA glue oozes out between your palm and grip you could be in TROUBLE big time. Just a heads up. (slowly and small amounts) I'm not trying to convince anyone, nor do I have the sword in hand but I do see the pictures. One should be clearly able to see the juncture of the guard to the pommel. Note the hole. My hunch is that most of the wiggle can be eliminated there and that the two ends of the grip likely have enough room for the thin glue to run both ways, either into the guard or pommel. (slowly and small amounts) Then again, whatever works, works.
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Post by pellius on Apr 1, 2019 2:37:24 GMT
Thanks all for the great info. It’s very much appreciated.
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Apr 1, 2019 4:04:26 GMT
Yes there is the epoxy -super glue option too of course. Pgandy was lucky he did not permanently glue his hands to the sword. Happened to me too once. The way to prevent disaster is to seal every nook and cranny in the hilt and I mean every, with sculpters wax. Cheap stuff, works great. Once the hilt is sealed just pour in any amount of whatever and park the sword, standing on its hilt, for the night. Next day clear out the wax, clean with acetone and presto. That sword will never ever get lose again. Clearing out the wax with toothpicks is not a job though everybody likes. I prefer the shimming method since the sword gets this high pitch tone when struck and shims are easy to replace. Second, for me, is the epoxy clay method and third the ,, fillerup Jake '' method. It works great, but is permanent and can never be undone. The pitch of the blade when struck is a bit subdued, not as clear as crystal the first method can have. But that is not very important to most people I think. I am funny like that. Depends also on what you want to do with the sabre. If you want to go out and cut go for option 3. For display options 1 and 2 are more then enough. Heck, in the days of old option 1 was all they had. Constantly fiddling they were. In reality the heroes of Game of Thrones probably spend most of their time on one knee trying to get the kinks out of their blades.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2019 5:14:58 GMT
We could debate again about conservation vs restoration. As well as everything in between but again, I don't have the sword in hand. A seminar regarding differences is not something I care to spend time responding to, as we have in the past with often polar opposites in opinion.
Looseness mentioned but not described. The pommel cap and/or guard loose? The grip rotating on the tang? All three? Intent? Expectation? Are we up to twenty questions yet?
IMO, we may have jumped way past step 1 without a good bit of clarification and certainly without the sword in hand.
Acetone softens cyanoacrylates
One last time, small amounts and slowly. A good way to start any new project with any methodology.
I wear my superglue stained work clothes with pride. Waxed dental floss also indispensable. Come to think about it, a good tool to lift that washer if the blade is not seated on it.
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Post by viece on Apr 1, 2019 10:51:53 GMT
Really helpful comments here, thank you.
I will take a cautious approach. There is looseness in all three locations: blade/guard, grip/tang, guard/pommel/peen. You can even see the pommel move relative to the peen. BUT... only by a literal hair's breadth. And the peen appears smooth and unmolested so I will refrain from bashing it until after trying some glue injections.
Thanks again. Incredible detail in your responses.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Apr 1, 2019 13:08:44 GMT
Be advised that CA glues come in different viscosities, use the ones with the least if you go that route. Some are gap filling while others will freely flow into the smallest crevice. Sorry I can’t remember a brand name although I’ve used them for decades, the assortments to me are limited now and I take what I can get. The Loctite 242 has low viscosity and can easily be wiped off the surface with no trace when fresh. Take heed to Uhlan’s warning and remember once you use the stuff consider it permanent, although with Loctite it is possible to use heat and I’ve done so on threads using a cool flame from a lighter. Loctite was originally designed to hold nuts fast. The 242 is the least aggressive of the Loctite family but I’ve found it sufficient to hold a pesky nut on a threaded pommel in place.
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