Zen_Hydra
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Post by Zen_Hydra on Mar 5, 2019 18:10:28 GMT
I have wanted to try my hand at making a Viking style shield for a while, and recently I've been toying with the notion of a Viking inspired version of the Indian madu (example below).  I intend to use a premade center boss, along with 1/4 inch thick poplar planking and 4 oz. rawhide facing with a similar weight rawhide rim. The shield will be about 20 inches in diameter, and the center grip will be a 30-54 inch ash pole with smallish spear heads on both ends. I really don't want to mess around with making my own casein glue. What are optimal glues for a strong bond between rawhide and a wood like untreated poplar? What are the best kinds of paint for use on rawhide? Opinions wanted: With a spear sticking out from top and bottom, what is the best shield shape (round, oval, other)? |
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Mar 5, 2019 22:42:37 GMT
If you put a rawhide face, and no back, on the shield, you don't want the rawhide to shrink. But you need the rawhide to be flat, so it sits flush against the shield. If your rawhide is flat enough already, great. If not, wet it and stretch it flat. Tie to a frame so that it stays flat as it dries. I would glue the shield to it once it's dry, while still on the frame. This means you are gluing dry rawhide, and can use all sorts of glues. I'd try epoxy - strong, and thoroughly waterproof. I'd paint the front of the shield with epoxy, too (maybe an epoxy varnish, rather than a glue). You can put another paint on top of that if you want. If you glue the hide on wet, you need a glue that works with that (a PVA wood glue should work).
For the rim, I would wet it and sew it one. Drill holes, and sew with wire or rawhide strips, or whatever cord. Or use clenched nails. Epoxy over it for waterproofing once it's dry.
Round is fine. Traditionally, this kind of thing uses a buckler-sized round shield. The pole is the main parrying part, and the shield is just to protect the shield hand. 20" will give some protection against arrows (but not as much as a bigger round shield), and will make the thing heavier compared with using a smaller shield. If the shield was much bigger, already wide enough to cover the width of your body, and you wanted it to be even bigger (for more coverage against spears and arrows), then oval becomes good - no point in making it wider, but longer to cover more of your height gives more benefit. At 20" diameter, round is good.
I would keep the spear haft, and specifically the bottom half, short enough so that I can move the shield across my body. This means that the bottom part will spend time in front of my body. I would use a blunt bottom, rather than a sharp point on the bottom, to reduce hazard to myself.
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christain
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Post by christain on Mar 7, 2019 7:04:41 GMT
I used 'Gorilla' brand wood glue to fix the leather onto my shield face. It has a fairly quick set-up time, but is still slow enough to stretch leather or fabric. Good stuff, and once it's set...it's there.  |
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Mar 7, 2019 15:27:15 GMT
Now I want to make one of these. What a wonderful looking weapon
I second gorilla glue. The kind that requires a damp surface. The stuff expands into this solid foam, and it's hold is amazing. I've fixed shoe soles in the past with it and they still hold up today
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christain
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Post by christain on Mar 7, 2019 16:04:22 GMT
I like the idea you have going there also. I never really thought about it....a shield with a built-in short spear. Hmmmm....yeah.  I may just do that to the shield I'm STILL in the process of building. |
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Mar 7, 2019 19:05:13 GMT
I like the idea you have going there also. I never really thought about it....a shield with a built-in short spear. Hmmmm....yeah. 8D I may just do that to the shield I'm STILL in the process of building. ;) You still working on that? Hehe |
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christain
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Post by christain on Mar 8, 2019 0:20:31 GMT
Amazing how projects with the best of intentions are sometimes found gathering dust, isn't it?  I mostly blame it on a couple of personal setbacks and plain ol' wintertime blues. The hard part's done though!  But, this is Djinn's thread topic, not mine...... |
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Mar 8, 2019 0:35:10 GMT
Amazing how projects with the best of intentions are sometimes found gathering dust, isn't it? I mostly blame it on a couple of personal setbacks and plain ol' wintertime blues. The hard part's done though! But, this is Djinn's thread topic, not mine...... Its actually Zenhydras, unless you invaded it and handed it over  |
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christain
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Post by christain on Mar 8, 2019 15:58:24 GMT
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Mar 19, 2019 20:55:27 GMT
After mulling over this topic, I must say I agree with Timo. A blunted butt-cap would be much safer for the user than a second spear head. Have you considered a Windlass Zulu Iklwa short spear as a candidate? If you cut a hole in the shield and top it with your steel center boss, you could use the handle of the spear as the grip for your shield. Then, taper the end of the spear handle to fit a butt-cap on.
I made a short spear using a Windlass Long Blade Hewing spear and their tapered butt-cap. The cap alone is heavy enough to be used as a light mace on a 20-ish inch handle. 
My shield is about 16" in diameter, and the spear is about 5' long---so a bit out of proportions for your project. I did put them together on the floor though, and the overall look of the weapon is impressive...to say the least. I'll try to post a photo later, but don't get your hopes up. |
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Zen_Hydra
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Post by Zen_Hydra on Mar 19, 2019 21:18:25 GMT
After mulling over this topic, I must say I agree with Timo. A blunted butt-cap would be much safer for the user than a second spear head. Have you considered a Windlass Zulu Iklwa short spear as a candidate? If you cut a hole in the shield and top it with your steel center boss, you could use the handle of the spear as the grip for your shield. Then, taper the end of the spear handle to fit a butt-cap on.
I made a short spear using a Windlass Long Blade Hewing spear and their tapered butt-cap. The cap alone is heavy enough to be used as a light mace on a 20-ish inch handle.
My shield is about 16" in diameter, and the spear is about 5' long---so a bit out of proportions for your project. I did put them together on the floor though, and the overall look of the weapon is impressive...to say the least. I'll try to post a photo later, but don't get your hopes up. My intention is to have the spear haft serve double duty as the shield's center grip and reinforcing brace. I'll probably use ash for said haft to help keep weight down, and my intention is to use poplar for the shield planking. For the spear head I'm looking at smaller spear and javelin heads, again to keep the overall weight reasonable. If it isn't nimble enough to parry with, it doesn't achieve the primary design goal. I'll have to keep my eyes open for lighter weight butt-caps (maybe I can find an attractive buffalo horn tip to this end). |
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Mar 20, 2019 14:56:51 GMT
These have been used for years in the SCA, primarily on the west coast.
They have strengths and weaknesses, but you've already figured out that putting a spear on your shield can be problematic.
Also consider the spear shaft is a wonderful target to smack and torque the shield right out of your hand.
I personally LOVE fighting against these, but not with one, as I dislike the inherent weakness in the system and how our rules allow it to be used.
Just food for thought....oh, and NEVER NEVER use this unarmored, or one of the spear heads will impale you...
Just saying.
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christain
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Post by christain on Aug 24, 2019 21:56:25 GMT
A couple of really crappy shots of my ongoing shield project.  I should have taken photos from the very beginning, but oh well.... . You can imagine a circle of plywood with a hole cut in the center. 3/4'' treated plywood...14ga. steel boss by GDFB...upholstery-grade leather facing. The boss is just held in place with steel thumbtacks right now, until I decide if I want to use rivets or bolts in the final assembly. If I use bolts, the heads will have decorative file-work on them so they don't look so...'bolt-y'. The entire circumference will be surrounded by rope and held on by nails, ---also with file-work. The back shows the extra leather I have added as additional padding for the hand. The back will also be covered in the same leather as the facing, but suede-side out. The grip will be contoured hardwood, wrapped in leather that matches the facing. I may or may not add a forearm strap on one side. The shield is about 17" across. It may not be the prettiest shield out there, or 'historically correct'---but when it's done, it should be able to take most any punishment one could expect from a shield and then some. I didn't build it to be a wall-hanger. As for any decoration on the facing, I haven't decided. I may use a wood-burning kit to burn in some designs with Nordic runes, etc.---or I may cut out designs from contrasting colored leather and super-glue them on. Anyhoo----Here it is--------More to come.    Shameless glamour-shot------  |
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Zen_Hydra
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Post by Zen_Hydra on Aug 24, 2019 22:20:47 GMT
christainHave you considered using horseshoe nails, or other "rustic" nails for your shield construction? They aren't particularly expensive,and look pretty legit.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 24, 2019 22:28:35 GMT
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christain
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Post by christain on Aug 24, 2019 22:44:02 GMT
Zen---I may just do that.  Would save me some work. Thanks for the tip! Pgandy---The diameter across is right at 17'', but with the rope edging it will be about 18''. Weight as of now is about 3-1/2 to 4 pounds. When I finish, it will be around 5 pounds, + or- . It's a chunk, and built like a brick out-house. * The copper rivets look pretty good, but I'm going all-steel----probably machine bolts with file-work.* |
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I may just do that to the shield I'm STILL in the process of building. 
I mostly blame it on a couple of personal setbacks and plain ol' wintertime blues. The hard part's done though! 
But, this is Djinn's thread topic, not mine...... 
I should have taken photos from the very beginning, but oh well.... 
Would save me some work. Thanks for the tip! 
