AndiTheBarvarian
Member
"Lord of the Memes"
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 10,324
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 31, 2019 16:39:34 GMT
My first swords were from Gen2/LA but from before Cas Iberia times, and I'm happy with mine (Maintz, Witham, Luzerne, Ranger).
But some of the other Gen2 models are a bit too heavy for their size.
Afaik Cas Iberia changed the tang construction from threaded tang with fake peened pommel to real peen.
It should be tougher theoretically but I've never heart that there were failures.
I've read somewhere the explanation for the "not battle ready":
The swords are made in the Phillipines in forges with a heat treatment that isn't standardized like other forges.
The problem is not a too soft heat treatment, this is no danger.
The problem is the possibility of a heat treatment that left the swords too brittle with the danger of breaking.
But there also were no reports that this really happened afaik.
I wish you good luck and much joy with your Black Prince
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2019 16:49:39 GMT
Lucerne
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2019 16:53:37 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian
Member
"Lord of the Memes"
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 10,324
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 31, 2019 16:54:37 GMT
Yup, confused it with the German city name (Luzern).
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2019 16:58:41 GMT
Yup, confused it with the German city name (Luzern). Swizzlers  |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2019 17:11:21 GMT
Should do fine; neither my Flame, my Ranger, nor my idontrememberthefragginname model (half-wired grip bastard sword, diamond cross sectioned blade) ever let me down or showed the slightest loosening...
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Post by snowbite on Jan 31, 2019 17:39:07 GMT
I was just looking at this sword yesterday. Please let us know how it performs.
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AndiTheBarvarian
Member
"Lord of the Memes"
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 10,324
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 31, 2019 18:28:03 GMT
I just found out they changed the Black Prince a lot compared to the older modell I knew.
The new blade looks much like my Lucerne on the pictures and that's a good idea.
The hilt looks much better too.
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Post by Gunnar Wolfgard on Jan 31, 2019 19:58:49 GMT
So edelweiss what does " Lucerne " have to do with this topic ? Just curious. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2019 20:06:54 GMT
So edelweiss what does " Lucerne " have to do with this topic ? Just curious. The Legacy Arms Lucerne Andi referenced as the Luzerne. You might as well be ask why I poke Andi. What would your interest in that have to do with the topic?  |
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Post by illustry on Sept 19, 2019 17:17:53 GMT
And so begins the sharpening process.... and then the polishing process. Yes indeed folks, we can put a man on the moon half a century ago but we can not get a properly sharpened sword out of the box. The geometry being a thick diamond cross section.. it's understandable to not be a razor but still it could have been a little sharper. I got it a lot better but not to my satisfaction yet. Curious if you've made progress on the edge and what you think of this sword now. Is it a keeper? |
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Post by illustry on Sept 19, 2019 17:32:33 GMT
thanks.
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Post by snowbite on Sept 19, 2019 18:39:05 GMT
This one is still on my short list to fill the XVa Oakeshott slot for me. CAS is out of stock until December. I know KoA has them in available, but I have a coupon code for CAS that I’m saving.
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Post by cearball on Apr 21, 2020 20:09:58 GMT
With the Lucerne I own my main gripe is the sharp edges on the pommel but the handle is long enough for two hands.
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Post by cearball on Apr 21, 2020 20:10:55 GMT
My first swords were from Gen2/LA but from before Cas Iberia times, and I'm happy with mine (Maintz, Witham, Luzerne, Ranger). But some of the other Gen2 models are a bit too heavy for their size. Afaik Cas Iberia changed the tang construction from threaded tang with fake peened pommel to real peen. It should be tougher theoretically but I've never heart that there were failures. I've read somewhere the explanation for the "not battle ready": The swords are made in the Phillipines in forges with a heat treatment that isn't standardized like other forges. The problem is not a too soft heat treatment, this is no danger. The problem is the possibility of a heat treatment that left the swords too brittle with the danger of breaking. But there also were no reports that this really happened afaik. I wish you good luck and much joy with your Black Prince What are we talking about in regards to a fake peen? Thanks |
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Post by illustry on Apr 21, 2020 20:31:15 GMT
tang is threaded and exposed end of that threaded tang is hammered on to give it a peened look. cearball
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Post by cearball on Apr 22, 2020 15:55:36 GMT
tang is threaded and exposed end of that threaded tang is hammered on to give it a peened look. cearball
I thought that might be what this was referring to. I mean that is still technically peened though right? Are there some major drawbacks to doing this? |
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Post by illustry on Apr 22, 2020 16:19:44 GMT
It depends. If the pommel is keyed on the tang (so pommel won't rotate) then that is good. If pommel is just "screwed" on to tang, not as good. That means if the threads are in the pommel itself, usually bad, because that means it can rotate, and that the tang is very narrow by time it meets pommel, creating a stress riser. If the threads are on a peen block, that is usually "better", because it suggests the pommel could be keyed. But it all depends on diameter of threaded area and amount of surface area of the threading and keyed or not. This will vary from piece to piece. At a high level, I prefer a build that is not trying to "disguise" something, yet is well built for what it is, regardless of the method of fixing the pommel to the tang. cearball |
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Post by cearball on Apr 23, 2020 17:28:03 GMT
It depends. If the pommel is keyed on the tang (so pommel won't rotate) then that is good. If pommel is just "screwed" on to tang, not as good. That means if the threads are in the pommel itself, usually bad, because that means it can rotate, and that the tang is very narrow by time it meets pommel, creating a stress riser. If the threads are on a peen block, that is usually "better", because it suggests the pommel could be keyed. But it all depends on diameter of threaded area and amount of surface area of the threading and keyed or not. This will vary from piece to piece. At a high level, I prefer a build that is not trying to "disguise" something, yet is well built for what it is, regardless of the method of fixing the pommel to the tang. cearball Thanks for the info. |
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