|
Post by Tiers1 on Jan 9, 2019 16:51:28 GMT
I am sure this is an absurdly simple question but please bear with me. I recently had a custom piece fabricated and all went well, right down to the wenge wood handle. The original piece that the weapon was modeled after had a wonderful polished wenge handle. However one little oversight was that my handle has a sort of dull natural wood finish. How could I go about getting a shiny sort of finish that shows off the grain? I recall shellac from home ec class and have seen dudes on forged in fire rubbing a whole handle down with superglue but something tells me that's not the way...
|
|
stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,647
|
Post by stormmaster on Jan 9, 2019 16:55:02 GMT
Something about polishing and sealing it should bring out the luster, I think
|
|
stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,647
|
Post by stormmaster on Jan 9, 2019 17:33:23 GMT
Look on my post about the sutton hoo, granted the black wood is ebony but alot shiner after polish, I believe Brian coated it with something like oil or something then sealed not 100% sure lol
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Jan 9, 2019 18:09:38 GMT
Not knowing the type of wood I’ll just make a general statement. Try sanding it with 600 grit with mineral oil progressing to 1200 or 1500 grit, still with the oil. After that rub in teak oil with fingers. Repeat the teak oil on a daily basis until satisfied. Tongue or linseed oil will also work. If you use linseed oil a vigorous rubbing with your palm will generate heat that in time will give an attractive polymerized surface. Personally I do not like those finishes created with shellac, varnishes, etc.
|
|
|
Post by MOK on Jan 9, 2019 19:40:54 GMT
Yeah, I'd use oil, too. With a good polish it makes the wood shiny and slightly translucent, which gives a much deeper luster than you'd get with surface treatments like lacquers and varnishes. Also it makes the wood itself moisture resistant, and it won't start drying and cracking with age. Almost any oil will work, IME, but they give slightly different hues (e.g. linseed oil will make it a little yellower, while mineral oil should just darken it slightly or not at all).
Also, if you want a nice smooth shiny surface, don't go straight to the ultra fine papers. Start with something fairly low, depending on the current finish, and go up gradually from there. Always sand in the direction of the grain. And moisten the wood before sanding to make the grain stand up.
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Jan 9, 2019 21:43:03 GMT
If you moisten with water in order to make the grain stand up, do just that moisten, a damp towel will do the trick. Then hit it with 000 steel wool. I know the process as dewhiskering. In fact, with age the grain may stand up on its own and need to be dewhiskered. This happens in time with my canes and I just hit the surface with 600 grit (finishing with 1200-1500 has been recommended and I use to do that but am happy with the 600) and mineral oil after using something like liquid Pledge to get the grime and sweat out. Whether you start with a courser grit would depend on the condition of the wood presently. Like MOK said, oil will prevent cracking with age.
|
|
|
Post by Tiers1 on Jan 10, 2019 15:06:21 GMT
Sounds good. Thanks for the advice!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2019 4:56:42 GMT
Wenge is a pain in the butt. I recommend using oil as a slurry with sandpaper. If you go the shellac route, cut it yourself. Homemade shellac is so much better.
|
|
|
Post by Madmartigen on Jan 13, 2019 7:24:54 GMT
Also do take care when polishing wenge, it can get quite toxic when breathed in.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2019 17:56:47 GMT
|
|