Windlass' M1860 Officer's Model Sabre
Oct 28, 2018 15:18:36 GMT
Post by pgandy on Oct 28, 2018 15:18:36 GMT
This is not intended to be a review but my impressions of Windlass’ M1860 Officer Model Sabre. I’d been wanting a M1840 or M1860 for sometime as I had no sabres and had been eyeing Universal’s M1860s since they have changed to 1055 steel. Their price is $245. When ACC put their Windlass 1860 Officer’s Model on special for $90 I had to give it serious thought. With KoA’s listed PoB at 6½”, and with good handling qualities I remember reading about, and a selling price of $90 I bit, as by the time I received it the difference in price would be greater than the $90 vs $245. As it turned out the estimated $200 turned out to $240 while I had estimated the $245 would be $450-$475.
I have mixed feelings about the sword but due to the difference in price and the fact that I got the M1860 out of my system makes me lean to the positive mostly.
As for the negatives they are all subjective and have no bearing on the functioning save one. Before I could finish unwrapping I could tell something was wrong with the chape. As it turned out it was OK, just overly thick at 1/8” making it ¼” larger than the scabbard. The bands were not to my liking because instead of the outer surface being radius they had a rectangular cross section and had about a .15” perpendicular step from the scabbard. All of this destroyed the graceful curves that I admired. Windlass would have done well to put that excess brass into the hilt. There the guard is undersize and the bars bordering on the frail side. Whoever designed the grip must have had a brain fart as it is well undersize even for my size 8 hand. In addition it lacks proper geometer being about shapeless. Of course all of this had an adverse effect on handling. I corrected by using tape to increase the diameter and to put a small palm swell on the dorsal side and a larger one on the ventral.
Not all is bad as there are positives. All parts not only fit well including sabre/scabbard fit but appeared to be made correctly from a fabricating point; it is the design that is problem. The sword fits the scabbard nicely with no rattling or binding. It’s peened with a keyed pommel and well finished. There is no whip to in the blade. It has Windlass’ typical washed out main fuller, but the smaller secondary fuller is crisp. The etching is well done, it is just that I don’t like the style, but knew this beforehand so I can’t complain. I prefer an undecorated blade first and Universal’s style second.
I ordered it unsharpened in order to keep customs happy, and also I prefer my edge. I sharpened starting just forward of the etching and put a shaving sharp convex edge on the thing. The false edge remained untouched. I checked the edge before my fifth cutting session this morning and it still shaved. I put masking over the edge before returning the sabre and draw carefully with the edge up.
I am going to have to make an educated guess as I have nothing to compare. I find it handles well, probably better than other repos judging from the statics. Mine came with a PoB 3/8” greater than KoA’s 6½” and an ounce heavier but still about an ounce lighter than the originals. I find KoA figures generally have been on the conservative side. The blade is ¼” longer making it 34”. Also the grip length came with a welcomed ¼” more than KoA’s 3¾”.
As for cutting, I’ve used only the normal soft targets and it goes through them effortlessly, about like they weren’t there. Probably due to the curved blade that reminded me of an extended shamshir when I viewed it lying on the table from the butt the first time. I get the feeling that the blade is curved more like a M1840 that had a little more curve than the M1860. I find it a bit slow for fencing, but certainly not useless. As for giving point the curve makes it harder to give pin point accuracy. When giving point but I doubt any other M1860 repo would do better. Also I found another issue when giving point and that is penetration. Granted it was designed for cavalry use and no doubt the horse gave it additional power but I am not mounted. I used my standard penetration target which is two folded rugs over a heavy wall gallon jug with water. I was considering changing this as previously my swords gave complete penetration including my cutlass with its curved blade, but than they were designed to gave point. Not the M1860 OM. I made three attempts. The first made a 7/8” cut on the near side only. The next two didn’t even do that.
While I am glad to get the desire for a M1860 out of my system and especially with the price difference I do not hold this sword in any high esteem. It makes a fun backyard beater but little more.
I have mixed feelings about the sword but due to the difference in price and the fact that I got the M1860 out of my system makes me lean to the positive mostly.
As for the negatives they are all subjective and have no bearing on the functioning save one. Before I could finish unwrapping I could tell something was wrong with the chape. As it turned out it was OK, just overly thick at 1/8” making it ¼” larger than the scabbard. The bands were not to my liking because instead of the outer surface being radius they had a rectangular cross section and had about a .15” perpendicular step from the scabbard. All of this destroyed the graceful curves that I admired. Windlass would have done well to put that excess brass into the hilt. There the guard is undersize and the bars bordering on the frail side. Whoever designed the grip must have had a brain fart as it is well undersize even for my size 8 hand. In addition it lacks proper geometer being about shapeless. Of course all of this had an adverse effect on handling. I corrected by using tape to increase the diameter and to put a small palm swell on the dorsal side and a larger one on the ventral.
Not all is bad as there are positives. All parts not only fit well including sabre/scabbard fit but appeared to be made correctly from a fabricating point; it is the design that is problem. The sword fits the scabbard nicely with no rattling or binding. It’s peened with a keyed pommel and well finished. There is no whip to in the blade. It has Windlass’ typical washed out main fuller, but the smaller secondary fuller is crisp. The etching is well done, it is just that I don’t like the style, but knew this beforehand so I can’t complain. I prefer an undecorated blade first and Universal’s style second.
I ordered it unsharpened in order to keep customs happy, and also I prefer my edge. I sharpened starting just forward of the etching and put a shaving sharp convex edge on the thing. The false edge remained untouched. I checked the edge before my fifth cutting session this morning and it still shaved. I put masking over the edge before returning the sabre and draw carefully with the edge up.
I am going to have to make an educated guess as I have nothing to compare. I find it handles well, probably better than other repos judging from the statics. Mine came with a PoB 3/8” greater than KoA’s 6½” and an ounce heavier but still about an ounce lighter than the originals. I find KoA figures generally have been on the conservative side. The blade is ¼” longer making it 34”. Also the grip length came with a welcomed ¼” more than KoA’s 3¾”.
As for cutting, I’ve used only the normal soft targets and it goes through them effortlessly, about like they weren’t there. Probably due to the curved blade that reminded me of an extended shamshir when I viewed it lying on the table from the butt the first time. I get the feeling that the blade is curved more like a M1840 that had a little more curve than the M1860. I find it a bit slow for fencing, but certainly not useless. As for giving point the curve makes it harder to give pin point accuracy. When giving point but I doubt any other M1860 repo would do better. Also I found another issue when giving point and that is penetration. Granted it was designed for cavalry use and no doubt the horse gave it additional power but I am not mounted. I used my standard penetration target which is two folded rugs over a heavy wall gallon jug with water. I was considering changing this as previously my swords gave complete penetration including my cutlass with its curved blade, but than they were designed to gave point. Not the M1860 OM. I made three attempts. The first made a 7/8” cut on the near side only. The next two didn’t even do that.
While I am glad to get the desire for a M1860 out of my system and especially with the price difference I do not hold this sword in any high esteem. It makes a fun backyard beater but little more.