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Post by austin41005 on Oct 27, 2018 22:19:56 GMT
What is the best steel for a battle katana both with niku 9260 spring steel or clay tempered t-10 as far as edge retention under stress and being able to hold up to the most punishment both from the same smith custom made to order with good reviews so heat treating will be of the same quality I've heard mixed reviews from both steels but would like to gather some more opinions before sinking that much money into a katana
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Post by Jordan Williams on Oct 27, 2018 23:36:34 GMT
It depends way more on the maker and heat treatment than steel type. For instance, someone might make a very well tempted 9269 blade, but be very bad at t-10 clay tempering, or vice versa.
With spring steel you might find yourself with a more durable blade, and with clay tempering you'll have a more traditional method of being made.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Oct 28, 2018 0:01:01 GMT
All things being equal I'd consider what your intended use is. Both are very good steels.
In the benefits department for each you're looking at a more forgiving blade that can take a bit more stress without taking a set with the TH 9260 blade. With the DH T10 you're looking at a harder edge, which will give you a sharper, finer edge that will last longer and be able to cut through harder targets with less relative edge deformation(comparatively and assuming good cutting practices are used). In the end, each has a slight plus in one way and a slight negative in the other, but as long as it's well made and used responsibly then either is just fine, so go with the one that speaks to you more.
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Post by austin41005 on Oct 28, 2018 0:18:44 GMT
Thank you for the input I think I've decided to go for the t10 clay tempered due to a harder and more fine and durable edge 9260 does look very forgiving and flexible but edge upkeep is much more challenging on swords than knives and more costly how do you guys feel about leather wrapping vs traditional wrapping for the tsuka
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Oct 28, 2018 2:49:17 GMT
Edge upkeep is a bit of a pain, yes, mostly due to trying to upkeep the finish. Since Japanese styled swords generally don't have a secondary bevel, you've got to polish the whole thing if you don't want ugly marring on the blade, and that can take a lot of time and effort. The TH 9260 wont instantly lose it's edge or deform like play doh or anything. 9260 is a good steel, but yeah, the T10 will take a better edge and keep it longer. I don't know if you've got a lot of experience with cutting(we've had brand new members who have years of cutting and formal training) but if you're relatively new I'd suggest watching some videos on proper cutting technique. One of my very favorite series' is on YouTube(here's the link: www.youtube.com/user/34R4K1/videos ). The best sword with the best edge won't last or perform if your technique is way off, so these help a great help. Also, if you are going to be cutting, be reasonable with your targets. Some folks cut stuff like 2 x 4's and cinder blocks and wonder why their sword is all messed up. Best of luck with your purchase. Feel free to share what you get with us, we'd love to see it. |
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Post by austin41005 on Oct 28, 2018 14:39:56 GMT
Edge upkeep is a bit of a pain, yes, mostly due to trying to upkeep the finish. Since Japanese styled swords generally don't have a secondary bevel, you've got to polish the whole thing if you don't want ugly marring on the blade, and that can take a lot of time and effort. The TH 9260 wont instantly lose it's edge or deform like play doh or anything. 9260 is a good steel, but yeah, the T10 will take a better edge and keep it longer. I don't know if you've got a lot of experience with cutting(we've had brand new members who have years of cutting and formal training) but if you're relatively new I'd suggest watching some videos on proper cutting technique. One of my very favorite series' is on YouTube(here's the link: www.youtube.com/user/34R4K1/videos ). The best sword with the best edge won't last or perform if your technique is way off, so these help a great help. Also, if you are going to be cutting, be reasonable with your targets. Some folks cut stuff like 2 x 4's and cinder blocks and wonder why their sword is all messed up. Best of luck with your purchase. Feel free to share what you get with us, we'd love to see it. I've had quite a bit of experience I took a couple of years of iaido which is like the tai chi of swordsmanship learning all the proper cuts and drawing techniques as well as different methods as well as kendo which is a direct descendant art of kenjuitsu where I was trained in different techniques and actually sparred it started as a hobby to help me adapt back into civ life from the military and then became an addiction lol after 6 years I've reached "mastery" at my schools at least so I figured it was time to treat myself to something really nice but each soke teaches different methods so I plan to relocate to learn more |
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Post by laionidas on Oct 28, 2018 18:20:17 GMT
It depends way more on the maker and heat treatment than steel type. For instance, someone might make a very well tempted 9269 blade, but be very bad at t-10 clay tempering, or vice versa. I fully support this statement. That said, if we don't know anything about the smith's abilities, I'd say T10 would be more suited for a blade with niku. The point of 9260 is that it can flex a bit more after all, and using it to build a comparatively heavy or stubby blade that won't flex, kinda defeats the point of it, whereas a T-10 blade with a hard edge and soft spine that will bend (rather than break) under stress, seems to be more suited for this type of blade geometry. However, if we assume that the smith's abilities are terrible across the board, or we simply don't trust him enough, I'd pick 9260, since it's a bit more forgiving. |
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Post by okamikensei on Feb 24, 2021 2:16:01 GMT
Why not just San mai them both together with T10 for the edge? I understand this might be extremely difficult to do, due to getting the right temperature needed to forge weld them considering T10 likely needs a much higher temperature but if it can be done I feel like in theory that would be one of the best combinations to use in a sword with 2 different steels. Just an idea, however crazy it might be. Do you think it's atleast possible?
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Post by dhampir on Feb 25, 2021 6:35:45 GMT
1095 and 9260 San mai would be alot easier for a Smith to forge. Have the almost the same effect
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Feb 25, 2021 7:06:08 GMT
Laminated sword blades made of steels with different carbon content made sense in former times with just rudimentary knowledge of heat treatment.
The optimal heat treatment for 9260 is different from the optimal heat treatment for T10/1095.
If you laminate both and heat treat them together the result isn't the best of both worlds, rather the opposite.
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Post by Stef on Feb 25, 2021 9:40:50 GMT
What is the best steel for a battle katana both with niku 9260 spring steel or clay tempered t-10 as far as edge retention under stress and being able to hold up to the most punishment both from the same smith custom made to order with good reviews so heat treating will be of the same quality I've heard mixed reviews from both steels but would like to gather some more opinions before sinking that much money into a katana battle katana implies that the others are not meant for battle.... |
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Post by Stef on Feb 25, 2021 9:42:13 GMT
It depends way more on the maker and heat treatment than steel type. For instance, someone might make a very well tempted 9269 blade, but be very bad at t-10 clay tempering, or vice versa. With spring steel you might find yourself with a more durable blade, and with clay tempering you'll have a more traditional method of being made. 1000% |
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Post by shepherd214 on Feb 27, 2021 0:45:26 GMT
Its kinda useless to bring up if one is made poorly and other is made well. why even compare the two. obviously a well made t10 DH will be better than poorly made TH blade. But both being made equally, I'd take the TH blade with niku. 1060, 9260, 1075, 1095, etc. wont take a set, only a few points difference in edge hardness, dont have to worry about bends and sets. if youre just collecting, buy whatever looks pretty to you. a well made t10 sword with niku will perform very similar.
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