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Post by zsg1313 on Jun 14, 2018 21:12:53 GMT
Anyone use this in finish polishing? I was about to do a light lemon etch on a huawei and as I was going through the messy garage and came upon a 5lb bag of this I bought after reading a bladeforums post on darkening the ji. I found the old thread and decided what the hell why not. The hamon remains unchanged but the softer steel has a larger contrast and now I'm thinking of skipping the etch entirely but I'm curious if anyone else has used this or any other techniques for bringing out a hamon without an acidic etch. Thoughts? |
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Jun 14, 2018 21:16:18 GMT
Wow, I don't think that I'd do anything beyond that. I've never heard of doing that, but those results really look like they speak for themselves.
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Post by zsg1313 on Jun 14, 2018 21:26:31 GMT
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Jun 14, 2018 22:49:09 GMT
You got some really great contrast going there.
Thanks for the link, too.
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Jun 15, 2018 1:24:38 GMT
Stop there. Looks great.
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Post by treeslicer on Jun 15, 2018 3:24:16 GMT
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Post by zsg1313 on Jun 15, 2018 20:21:52 GMT
Same treatment, done to the Kaneie I have for sale.
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Post by zsg1313 on Jun 23, 2018 20:36:12 GMT
Same with a prezmek blade. This one already looked great but I used an 800 grit powdered abrasive beforehand.
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Post by zsg1313 on Jun 23, 2018 22:07:54 GMT
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Post by sacredcompass on Dec 8, 2019 1:47:01 GMT
Does the red kanahada or akako (red iron oxide aka jeweler's rouge) not work on 9260 spring steel? I bought that same 5 pound bag off Amazon from that article it was featured in and if anything, my blade got much lighter/polished instead of darker- I even used the same Hoppes #9 lubricant aerosol can from the guide to mix the powder.
I later tried using lemons w/ drops of Dawn soap to etch, the blade gradually became dark grey with the bottom half of my hamon (near the tsuba leading towards the middle) becoming a bright white in contrast. After multiple cycles of lemon then acetone, I keep getting the same results with only half the blade showing a hamon.
Used some mother's mag after the lemons and it instantly wiped all the grey oxidation clean and left my blade back at square one.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Dec 8, 2019 15:13:32 GMT
One thought.
I was under the impression powdered abrasives like this could cause silicosis. You may want to wear a mask if any of this stuff is airborn.
At least read the package for safety warnings...just in case.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2019 16:55:25 GMT
One thought. I was under the impression powdered abrasives like this could cause silicosis. You may want to wear a mask if any of this stuff is airborn. At least read the package for safety warnings...just in case. THIS. Anytime you use abrasives you should wear a mask and eyeglasses. Thanks for bringing this up. |
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Dec 8, 2019 17:09:08 GMT
Agreed, I spent years being stupid.
I wonder though, using a rag, oil and the powder, how much risk there is.
I mean compared to running a buffer or belt sander and making clouds of airborn dust....
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2019 17:22:08 GMT
If the material is paste, I would gather there is little risk of damage due to inhalation. Taking small precautions, no matter how unnecessary, never hurts.
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Post by sacredcompass on Dec 8, 2019 20:21:39 GMT
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Post by sacredcompass on Dec 16, 2019 22:27:10 GMT
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Post by zsg1313 on Dec 17, 2019 17:16:04 GMT
Does the red kanahada or akako (red iron oxide aka jeweler's rouge) not work on 9260 spring steel? I bought that same 5 pound bag off Amazon from that article it was featured in and if anything, my blade got much lighter/polished instead of darker- I even used the same Hoppes #9 lubricant aerosol can from the guide to mix the powder. I later tried using lemons w/ drops of Dawn soap to etch, the blade gradually became dark grey with the bottom half of my hamon (near the tsuba leading towards the middle) becoming a bright white in contrast. After multiple cycles of lemon then acetone, I keep getting the same results with only half the blade showing a hamon. Used some mother's mag after the lemons and it instantly wiped all the grey oxidation clean and left my blade back at square one. Sorry I didnt see this sooner. I have never worked with 9260, the blades i did this on were all T-10 or W2 steel. I actually was under the impression 9260 was typically through-hardened. |
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Post by sacredcompass on Dec 17, 2019 18:23:55 GMT
Does the red kanahada or akako (red iron oxide aka jeweler's rouge) not work on 9260 spring steel? I bought that same 5 pound bag off Amazon from that article it was featured in and if anything, my blade got much lighter/polished instead of darker- I even used the same Hoppes #9 lubricant aerosol can from the guide to mix the powder. I later tried using lemons w/ drops of Dawn soap to etch, the blade gradually became dark grey with the bottom half of my hamon (near the tsuba leading towards the middle) becoming a bright white in contrast. After multiple cycles of lemon then acetone, I keep getting the same results with only half the blade showing a hamon. Used some mother's mag after the lemons and it instantly wiped all the grey oxidation clean and left my blade back at square one. Sorry I didnt see this sooner. I have never worked with 9260, the blades i did this on were all T-10 or W2 steel. I actually was under the impression 9260 was typically through-hardened. The sword I worked on is a Kaze from Cheness, they're 9260 spring steel advertised as deferentially hardened. I bought it about 9 years ago as of now, the hamon always was an issue for me because they have pictures of what the sword looks like when polished on the purchasing page along with it's stats/geometry:  Looking at the work done here now, after having attempted this effect with lemons & vinegar makes me pretty sure this polish was done with ferric chloride. I'm also doubting the clay, heat treatment of my blade now as I still have half of my hamon not appearing correctly (a very dim grey) while the bottom half comes out a high-contrast, ashy grey color. The stats on the Kaze are as follows, according to their page: Blade Differentially Hardened 9260 Silicon Alloy Carbon Spring Steel. Overall Length (+ Saya) 42.5" Treatment Full Hand Forged, Clay Hardened, Water Quenched, Hand Polished Finish Tameshigiri Polish Blade Dimension 28" Length, 0.3" Width, 1.25" Height Sori (Curvature) 0.7" Weight 2 lbs 9 oz Tsuba/Fuchi/Kashira Blackened Cast Steel Tsuba with Antiqued Brass Fuchi/Kashira Balance Point 5" above tsuba (with fuller), 6" above tsuba (without fuller) Tsuka/Ho 11" Wood Tsuka Ito Brown Cotton Mekugi 2 X Wood (Double Pinned) Same Real Ray Skin Panel Wrap Saya 30.5" Black Glossy Lacquered Medium Hardwood |
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