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Post by 28shadow on May 10, 2018 14:43:49 GMT
Something I did a while back before my injury put me out of the game. Was doing a Game of S.W.O.R.D.S. in one of the facebook groups and someone said it was impossible to do this on a water bottle with anything other than a Katana. Hence why I looked a little "haughty" after I did the thing...
If I ever get back into casual backyard cutting I'll definitely try this more with other types of sword and from different angles.
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Post by demonskull on May 10, 2018 14:46:43 GMT
Nice, you deserved to be a little haughty. What sword was it and who sharpened it ?
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Post by 28shadow on May 10, 2018 14:48:52 GMT
Nice, you deserved to be a little haughty. What sword was it and who sharpened it ? Cold Steel 1917 Cutlass and I sharpened it myself.
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Post by Jordan Williams on May 10, 2018 15:27:16 GMT
Nice. Wouldn't have expected the cold steel to cut so well.
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Post by 28shadow on May 10, 2018 15:39:45 GMT
Nice. Wouldn't have expected the cold steel to cut so well. Me either. This one in particular was a fantastic cutter after I redid the edge. It was still a two foot crowbar, but it was a razor sharp two foot crowbar.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on May 10, 2018 15:57:44 GMT
What angle grind on the edge? BTW very impressive cut. Now I need to find some bottles.
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Post by 28shadow on May 10, 2018 16:21:41 GMT
pgandy I used a 25/25 edge angle as guided by the normal worksharp sharpening system followed by 30 minutes with 1500 - 2000 grit wet-n-dry sandpaper strapped down to a wooden block. I find this method produces a very nice edge on whatever I use, although on machetes I will use a 20/20 guide and the sandpaper. Yesterday I started the process on my H/T longsword and found the results favorable, though not as good as on this cutlass. Both slice paper fine, that's the only test I do. I'm not brave enough to shave hair and definitely not brave enough to "hew" paper with no slice.
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on May 10, 2018 16:36:35 GMT
pgandy I used a 25/25 edge angle as guided by the normal worksharp sharpening system followed by 30 minutes with 1500 - 2000 grit wet-n-dry sandpaper strapped down to a wooden block. I find this method produces a very nice edge on whatever I use, although on machetes I will use a 20/20 guide and the sandpaper. Yesterday I started the process on my H/T longsword and found the results favorable, though not as good as on this cutlass. Both slice paper fine, that's the only test I do. I'm not brave enough to shave hair and definitely not brave enough to "hew" paper with no slice. Thank you. I had assumed something around 20° or less. I like 25° in general. One thing you might try down the road and that is to take a WS belt that has worn beyond practical use and otherwise in good shape and apply a polishing material to it. I know of people that use a paste such as MetalGlo. I use red jeweller’s rouge. If the 1500/2000 works for you fine by all means continue to use it, it is just that I think you’ll be happy with the worn out belt and find it easier. I used a leather strop w/the rouge before moving to the belt.
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Post by 28shadow on May 10, 2018 16:43:40 GMT
pgandy I used a 25/25 edge angle as guided by the normal worksharp sharpening system followed by 30 minutes with 1500 - 2000 grit wet-n-dry sandpaper strapped down to a wooden block. I find this method produces a very nice edge on whatever I use, although on machetes I will use a 20/20 guide and the sandpaper. Yesterday I started the process on my H/T longsword and found the results favorable, though not as good as on this cutlass. Both slice paper fine, that's the only test I do. I'm not brave enough to shave hair and definitely not brave enough to "hew" paper with no slice. Thank you. I had assumed something around 20° or less. I like 25° in general. One thing you might try down the road and that is to take a WS belt that has worn beyond practical use and otherwise in good shape and apply a polishing material to it. I know of people that use a paste such as MetalGlo. I use red jeweller’s rouge. If the 1500/2000 works for you fine by all means continue to use it, it is just that I think you’ll be happy with the worn out belt and find it easier. I used a leather strop w/the rouge before moving to the belt. They do have a high grit polishing belt that I use, it's very worn down after all this time, though I don't apply anything to it. I think it's a 5000 grit micron belt? It's the last thing I do after spending time on the sand paper. It gives the plastic motor of the machine plenty of time to cool down. I like MetalGlo, it's the primary pasty I use with the sandpaper. On the blade it mixes with the oil I use very well and gives a nice munitions grade rough 1500 polish that I find both aesthetically pleasing and resistant to bottle scratches.
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Post by legacyofthesword on May 11, 2018 5:52:39 GMT
Fricking awesome. I find it even more cool that you didn't use a draw cut (though I'm absolutely intrigued with draw cuts).
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Post by Jordan Williams on May 11, 2018 5:58:52 GMT
Fricking awesome. I find it even more cool that you didn't use a draw cut (though I'm absolutely intrigued with draw cuts). I did it tonight with my new Cutlass Machete (same blade shape as the one in the vid) using a draw cut. Definitely want to try it out with some of my antiques now. Wasn't nearly as clean as Shadows.
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Post by legacyofthesword on May 11, 2018 6:00:01 GMT
I did it tonight with my new Cutlass Machete (same blade shape as the one in the vid) using a draw cut. Definitely want to try it out with some of my antiques now. Wasn't nearly as clean as Shadows. Nice! Yeah, those draw cuts just fascinate me for some reason....
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Post by 28shadow on May 11, 2018 6:23:39 GMT
Indeed that was the hardest part. The CS cutlass couldn't get up to speed doing a draw cut, so instead I did a snap cut using the fingers as leverage. This kills the wrist.
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