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Post by WVfishguy on Apr 13, 2018 20:45:16 GMT
This is the patina on my Cold Steel Viking axe using Chinese mustard: |
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Post by howler on Apr 13, 2018 21:14:21 GMT
This is the patina on my Cold Steel Viking axe using Chinese mustard: How cool. |
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Apr 13, 2018 21:17:23 GMT
Looks AWESOME! How did you get the mottled effect?
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Post by WVfishguy on Apr 14, 2018 4:25:23 GMT
I'm glad the large photo was able to be viewed - it really shows the mottling of the patina. Like I said before, this patina makes the steel pretty much rust proof. When I first did this, I did not expect it to be such a good rust blocker, but I have this finish on several weapons and I've NEVER seen any rust or discoloration on any steel treated in this manner.
I use the mustard from packets we get when we order Chinese food. This is Chinese style hot mustard. I smear the mustard on the metal, then take a paint brush and "paint" the mustard on the steel.
Then I use the brush to dab the metal with larger globs of mustard. Each mottled area is where the mustard is placed thickly. It took me a few times to get my technique down.
On this axe, I left the mustard on all night. The next morning, I placed the axe head in a sink of soapy water, let it soak for a while, and scrubbed the dried mustard off with a sponge.
The pattern is pretty much up to how you daub the mustard on. If you are very skillful, I'm sure you could get something like a pattern welded steel appearance. That's what I was shooting for.
I've used other types of mustard, but nothing works as well as the hot Chinese.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Apr 14, 2018 11:40:21 GMT
Cool...I'm going to try that. I have an old axe head in a drawer, just waiting for something to be done with it!  |
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Post by neuronic on Apr 14, 2018 12:40:13 GMT
Hmm... does this hold up?
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Post by WVfishguy on Apr 14, 2018 14:10:01 GMT
If you chop wood with it, you may have to retreat it. But in simple cutting and handling, it's as tough as gun bluing. Of course, it also depends on the steel you use.
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pgandy
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Senior Forumite
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Post by pgandy on Apr 14, 2018 14:18:36 GMT
The first time I looked my attention was focused on the patina and pattern. Today I went back and noticed the leather wrapping. I like that idea as it can hid the set screw.
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Post by WVfishguy on Apr 14, 2018 22:00:23 GMT
The first time I looked my attention was focused on the patina and pattern. Today I went back and noticed the leather wrapping. I like that idea as it can hid the set screw. That's exactly why I did that. |
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Apr 15, 2018 3:35:10 GMT
After reading many reviews, I tossed the CS hardware, set the head on the haft as solid as possible, drilled pilot holes, then hammered in two nails. Looks like a peened thru-pin, and is solid as a rock. Zero problems. The stock CS hardware is JUNK. |
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Post by bluetrain on Apr 22, 2018 12:55:40 GMT
I ran across a reference to a substance for giving metal a patina on another totally unrelated forum, although I don't think it works on ferrous metals, more for copper and brass apparently. It's called Liver of Sulphur. Although it probably has no application here, I thought the quotient of curiosity was too high not to mention. But then, I'd never heard of Chinese mustard, either.
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Post by solaris on Jun 19, 2018 16:54:26 GMT
This image has been featured in the SBG Article - How to Patina a Sword
I did a mustard patina on my Swamp Rat custom M9. I did a first attempt on a TOPS Tracker. Think of the design in terms of negative space. Where you put the mustard does not patina, but rather, the edge of the mustard patinas.
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