I did this up in MS paint a few months back. It was a design for a short bastard sword that I liked. Ignore most of the references besides the stats, that was for reference to a manufacturer's existing blades for me to look at. My main inspiration for this was a sword I saw (and obsessed over) in Game of Thrones, used by Jorah Mormont from Season 5 onward. Originally I intended for the grip to be a spiral leather grip with brass wire, but it could totally be a normal leather wrap.
Overall, it's not a bad design. However, I think the fuller needs to be significantly thinner, the guard should be wider, and the grip should have some taper to it; also, looking at what I could find of Jorah's sword through Google Images, I'd say 6" would be good for just the grip (if it were grip and pommel, the grip might be 4" maximum, which would put the sword firmly in the one-handed class rather than a bastard sword).
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Post by Jordan Williams on Feb 8, 2018 6:10:50 GMT
I like it. I'm a big fan of reslly broad fullers and think the pommel looks like it fits the design. If you go with wire I'd go with the style used on the Windlass M1850 staff and field. One thick strand flanked by two smaller strands.
I wouldn't use Creations (AKA Starfire) swords for reference, they're notoriously awkward and overweight clunkers designed and built purely to be banged against each other on stage (and they look like it, too).
A point of balance too close to the hilt makes for a dead-feeling sword; try to hit something with a stick while holding it too close to the middle and you'll see what I mean. You'd typically want it something like four to six inches from the guard on a sword of this size and type.
Seven inches is just barely enough space for two hands. Which is fine if you think of this as a one-hander first and foremost, while most primarily two-handers have at least three hand-widths of grippable area (e.g. Filippo Vadi advices a grip measuring a full span, plus pommel).
You'll want the grip to be just a little more shapely. Straight tubes are common in pop culture, but in reality ergonomics is a harsh mistress you don't want to snub: if you can't get a firm but lively grip on the sword you can't make it do what you want it to. Waisted, barreled, tapering in width while growing in thickness - but very subtle, remember, we're mostly talking differences of a couple of millimeters - whatever as long as it's not a straight tube that requires a white-knuckled death grip to hang on to.
The pommel shape is very dramatic. Less pronounced taper would make it easier to hold. You can actually see plenty of pommels of this style on 16th Century blades of all kinds, from parrying daggers to zweihänders.
I'd make the guard a little longer, close to the full length of grip+pommel. It just gives that much more margin of error before you start losing fingers.
The broad fuller dictates a very thin and consequently flexible blade designed primarily for cutting (because the narrower the edge bevels are, the thinner the blade must be in order to still have a sharp edge), but at the same time the pointy tip needs a stiff and thus thick blade backing it up for it to be of much use; the two features kinda work against each other. You can combine a broad cutting section with an acute point, absolutely, but this isn't quite the optimal way to do it. Personally I'd give this either a very narrow fuller of half or two-thirds length, or even none at all; look at historical blades of Oakeshott type XVI and XVIII.
Cool design. I like a nice broad fuller, and I like a cut and thrust type sword. I'm more a fan of Anglo-Saxon Viking Era fittings to go with a broad fuller, but I think these work nicely. If this was available, I would be tempted.
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