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Post by antoine99887 on Dec 14, 2017 21:35:29 GMT
Hey everyone, first post!
I just bought my first sword by Devil's Edge, a Gladius, I love it, but I was wondering what sort of maintenance it would require based specifically on my usage;
It came with a leather sheath, sharpened, etc. The handle and pommel are wood, the handle is bone, and the blade is 1095 high carbon steel.
I have read the sword care maintenance 101 in this section, but I haven't and don't intend to strike anything with the blade, or store it and never use it. Basically I keep it in the sheath and take it out once or twice a day to practice with it (very slowly) by myself, then just wipe it down very gently with a dry paper towel to remove dust and stuff. I'm very careful not to touch the blade to avoid any oils from my skin getting on it. I know everyone keeps saying not to use a leather sheath for LONG TERM storage, but can I use it the way I describe, perhaps moisture won't build up that way? Or do you think I should coat it in an oil and store it in some rolled up towels anyway, just to be 100% safe? I assume I can't wrap it in bath towels, right? I have a lot of those laying around (dry obviously), Lint free rags only? How often would I have to oil it considering my usage?
Also, can I use an oil such as avocado, olive, or almond, or should I just get renaissance wax like the guide says? Are those oils too heavy?
Thanks everyone!
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Post by antoine99887 on Dec 14, 2017 21:58:17 GMT
I store my blades in makeshift cardboard sheaths and handle them daily. I oil them about every two weeks or even less, rub them clean with alcohol before re-oiling. Never had a problem with rust. I would avoid the vegetable oils you mentioned, but instead use some kind of light mineral oil like WD40 or 3-in-one. Huh, ok sounds pretty simple, thanks
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Post by Verity on Dec 14, 2017 22:01:30 GMT
I store my blades in makeshift cardboard sheaths and handle them daily. I oil them about every two weeks or even less, rub them clean with alcohol before re-oiling. Never had a problem with rust. I would avoid the vegetable oils you mentioned, but instead use some kind of light mineral oil like WD40 or 3-in-one. Huh, ok sounds pretty simple, thanks even simpler: buy a KleenBore silicone gun and reel cloth (Amazon sells them or any gun shop or cabella’s etc)... wipe blade. Done. Alcohol wipe between oiling but I literally have never found an easier way to protect a sword than a gun & reel cloth
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Post by antoine99887 on Dec 14, 2017 22:05:28 GMT
Huh, ok sounds pretty simple, thanks even simpler: buy a KleenBore silicone gun and reel cloth (Amazon sells them or any gun shop or cabella’s etc)... wipe blade. Done. Alcohol wipe between oiling but I literally have never found an easier way to protect a sword than a gun & reel cloth Wow, I guess I was overthinking this
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Post by Verity on Dec 14, 2017 23:08:57 GMT
even simpler: buy a KleenBore silicone gun and reel cloth (Amazon sells them or any gun shop or cabella’s etc)... wipe blade. Done. Alcohol wipe between oiling but I literally have never found an easier way to protect a sword than a gun & reel cloth Wow, I guess I was overthinking this one sword is EASY to maintain. It only gets to be a “ritual” when you get into the dozens like some of us have done. 🤪
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Post by antoine99887 on Dec 14, 2017 23:35:14 GMT
Wow, I guess I was overthinking this one sword is EASY to maintain. It only gets to be a “ritual” when you get into the dozens like some of us have done. 🤪 Haha, yeah, I get it, cleaning one sword is enjoyable, but cleaning that many, maybe not
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Post by antoine99887 on Dec 14, 2017 23:37:13 GMT
^ EDIT
Sorry I can't edit, I forgot to ask, you say alcohol between oilings, how often would you suggest I oil it while using the gun & reel cloth method?
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Post by MOK on Dec 14, 2017 23:40:53 GMT
Some leather sheaths are bad for long term storage. Certain tanning processes can leave harmful residues in the leather; traditional vegetable tanned should be safe. Many cheap sheaths are very rough on the inside, causing the flesh to rub off and leave fine lint- or dust-like debris on the blade, which can attract and store moisture and cause spotty oxidation. Some have powdery residues of various kinds from production or storage; most of these are essentially harmless, but some can cause problems.
I store almost all my blades coated with plain ol' mineral oil (very lightly! once you've done spreading the oil everywhere, it's important to wipe off all of it that will come off so that only a very thin layer remains, sticking directly to the steel) in their sheaths and scabbards, and have never had any issues with oxidation or staining. I re-oil them (just wipe 'em down with an already oily piece of chamois) every time I use them, and otherwise maybe twice a year.
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Post by MOK on Dec 14, 2017 23:51:41 GMT
^ EDIT Sorry I can't edit, I forgot to ask, you say alcohol between oilings, how often would you suggest I oil it while using the gun & reel cloth method? Depends on the local climate and how you use your swords. You'll probably have to do some trial and (minor) error. For example, I live in a relatively dry place (not-quite-coastal Finland); I inspect each blade after using it, and if there are any visible marks or dirt on it I clean it with alcohol or acetone, then re-apply mineral oil. Otherwise I just look at them every now and then and clean and oil as needed. The key is just to keep a careful eye on things until you get a feel for what works - don't leave the sword unattended for weeks or months in its sheath until you know it does no harm, you know, just common sense. And never sheath it dirty!
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Post by bebut on Dec 15, 2017 0:03:21 GMT
In the desert I got away with leaving knives in sheaths, but it is a bad practice everywhere else. When TS Nate passed the coast this year, almost everything leather sprouted a nice coat of mold within a few days. Lightly oil things (the thinnest coating possible, wrap in in a piece of clean towel and put it in a drawer or gun safe. Gun oil, mineral oil, whatever is available.
It is good you are developing good habits that may serve you well, but Devils edge is not a museum quality heirloom. Use it have, fun, and give it the minimal cleaning and oiling it deserves. Where to watch out is long term storage, time flies by and what didn't do any damage in a month may show up in a year. Brownnels sells aluminum storage bags with a chemical tab to put inside. Sealed, it should keep you sword in great shape long term. They claim 3 years. They come in both rifle and pistol sizes so something should fit. You can also cut them down to make several out of one rifle case.
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Post by antoine99887 on Dec 15, 2017 0:06:10 GMT
Wow, lots of good info, thanks!
I just checked where I bought it and all it says is "The scabbard is crafted from stitched leather in a dark brown color. The brass hanging rings are fitted to leather bands that are fixed into position with stitches to complete the scabbard.", which is kind of strange since I thought it was just a sheath, since it's not rigid. Oh well, I definitely would notice if anything is not working for it since I handle it daily and inspect it closely.
Thanks again
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Post by antoine99 on Dec 24, 2017 19:04:11 GMT
Little follow-up question;
I just got my gun and reel cloth and 91% isopropyl alcohol, so I put some alcohol on a paper towel and wiped the blade down with it, then used a few more paper towels and dried it off, then I went over it a few times with the gun and reel cloth, which made it look quite nice, and put it back in the sheath. So this morning I checked it and it had a little bit of watery residue here and there, so I figured I made some sort of mistake. I'm thinking maybe:
1. Was I supposed to wipe off any excess from the gun and reel cloth with a dry paper towel? 2. Was I not supposed to store it back in the sheath after applying that stuff, maybe it makes it easier to sweat?
So I took some dry paper towels and dried the watery spots off (but I didn't remove the layer with alcohol, or reapply anything) and it looked fine, and put it back in the sheath to see if maybe the problem was excess use of the gun cloth.
I'm also going to order some lemon oil for the wooden guard and pommel, what about the bone handle though, I can probably just leave that?
Thanks
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Post by Verity on Dec 24, 2017 19:17:08 GMT
Little follow-up question; I just got my gun and reel cloth and 91% isopropyl alcohol, so I put some alcohol on a paper towel and wiped the blade down with it, then used a few more paper towels and dried it off, then I went over it a few times with the gun and reel cloth, which made it look quite nice, and put it back in the sheath. So this morning I checked it and it had a little bit of watery residue here and there, so I figured I made some sort of mistake. I'm thinking maybe: 1. Was I supposed to wipe off any excess from the gun and reel cloth with a dry paper towel? 2. Was I not supposed to store it back in the sheath after applying that stuff, maybe it makes it easier to sweat? So I took some dry paper towels and dried the watery spots off (but I didn't remove the layer with alcohol, or reapply anything) and it looked fine, and put it back in the sheath to see if maybe the problem was excess use of the gun cloth. I'm also going to order some lemon oil for the wooden guard and pommel, what about the bone handle though, I can probably just leave that? Thanks if your scabbard is wood with leather covering it should be fine. A LOT of excess oil may soak in to the wood but not too bad with a swipe or two of the cloth. If your scabbard is only leather be careful as the leather will really soak up the oil AND even worse attract moisture. As for the blade having some watery surface, that can happen, but most likely due to a bit of excess oil. You may ALSO not have cleaned it fully before applying and you have some beading on the surface. First time cleaning with alcohol do it a few times so you know you have bare steel. Some other oils the sword shipped with may be interacting. Whenever I get a new sword for the first time I will clean it with alcohol multiple times (and if a modern made blade I will also clean with original windex, the blue stuff with ammonia). Then when I have ensured NO residual oils that I know not the contents of, then I give it a couple or few swipes with the cloth. I’ll pinch the blade with the cloth between thumb and forefinger and run once down the fuller, then once pinched down each side of the edge bevel (using a fullered double edged longsword as an example). No more than that. I won’t obsessively wipe over and over because you’ll get too much on there and it’ll bead. Just make sure you have even coverage and very thin. Some minor beading will occur but ever so minor and nothing to worry about. For treating other parts... leather is best treated with “mink oil” which has more of a paste or wax consistency even though it is called oil. Be careful with grips as this can create slippery grips, which is bad if you plan to swing it 😂 Wood can be treated with lemon oil, or personally I like Tung oil as it does beautiful things with wood. Again, for grips be cautious as it can make a slippery surface. Bone or synthetic ivory should be fine and in fact you want that to naturally yellow over time.
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Post by antoine99 on Dec 24, 2017 19:25:08 GMT
^ Thanks!
I should have noticed a problem when I wiped it with the cloth and got some black residue on it, I forgot to even mention that. I guess I'll clean it a few more times.
EDIT: By the way, someone mentioned before making a sheath out of cardboard, can I just make a super minimalist sheath by getting two pieces of cardboard and letting it rest in between those? That's more appealing to me than the "wrap it in towels" method
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Post by Verity on Dec 24, 2017 20:00:22 GMT
^ Thanks! I should have noticed a problem when I wiped it with the cloth and got some black residue on it, I forgot to even mention that. I guess I'll clean it a few more times. EDIT: By the way, someone mentioned before making a sheath out of cardboard, can I just make a super minimalist sheath by getting two pieces of cardboard and letting it rest in between those? That's more appealing to me than the "wrap it in towels" method yeah your cloth should wipe clean. Residue means it isn’t clean. Can make a makeshift scabbard out of many things. :)
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Post by antoine99 on Dec 24, 2017 21:34:46 GMT
^ Thanks! I should have noticed a problem when I wiped it with the cloth and got some black residue on it, I forgot to even mention that. I guess I'll clean it a few more times. EDIT: By the way, someone mentioned before making a sheath out of cardboard, can I just make a super minimalist sheath by getting two pieces of cardboard and letting it rest in between those? That's more appealing to me than the "wrap it in towels" method yeah your cloth should wipe clean. Residue means it isn’t clean. Can make a makeshift scabbard out of many things. Haha, alright sounds good, thanks again
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Post by Dave Kelly on Dec 24, 2017 21:41:59 GMT
I beg your pardon! Restoration is a b****; maint is simple. You can knock out two dozen swords in a couple of hours if you are doing a simple maint. Don't have to overthink this stuff. If you are dry handling and not cutting there is very little you need to do. Leathers you can buy "leather grease" Picards or any product called Dubbin. Stuff probably goes back 3000 years (Olive oil and bee's wax; includes lanolin now). Wipe on and buff out. My preferred metal protectant is Militec 1. It's a slicone lube. Wipe on wipe of. Couple of times a year and no rust. Or you can use plain ole auto silicone spray for 3.00 a can. spray and wipe. Only issue I have found with silicone is that if your matal work is glazed, painted or plated and damaged, silicon can penetrate the coating and screw it up. That's why people like Renwax; petro based and no interaction with the item. Whatever. You're on the right track: ask questions and experiment.
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Post by antoine99 on Dec 25, 2017 4:24:55 GMT
Dear God, my OCD would not permit me to own anywhere near that many swords lol, I'd go crazy
Yes I am just lightly handling them, as in not actually hitting/cutting/stabbing anything, just practicing strikes and stuff like that. But you're right I'm just trying to get some good habits down.
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Post by MOK on Dec 25, 2017 9:01:10 GMT
BTW, I find cotton wool works MUCH better for the cleaning than paper towels or tissue.
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Post by Evad Yllek on Dec 25, 2017 10:52:55 GMT
Dear God, my OCD would not permit me to own anywhere near that many swords lol, I'd go crazy Yes I am just lightly handling them, as in not actually hitting/cutting/stabbing anything, just practicing strikes and stuff like that. But you're right I'm just trying to get some good habits down. OCD? Officer Correctional Discipline? Often critically difficult? Overbearing Chocolate Dromadery? Merry Christmas
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