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Post by demonskull on Dec 7, 2017 17:03:17 GMT
I was reading Brotherbanzia's post Raptor Claws a few minutes ago and realized I had no idea what making a kydex scabbard entails so I did a search on this site. I didn't come up with anything so I expanded to the web. I found these tutorials and thought I'd post them here as I can't be the only one without the knowledge. willowhavenoutdoor.com/general-survival/the-1-hour-custom-kydex-knife-sheath-in-your-kitchen/And this Youtube one: I'll give this a try after the holidays as I have a lot of knives, some without sheathes or ones that the scabbard quality isn't up to the quality of the knife.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Dec 8, 2017 13:11:10 GMT
That's pretty neat. I wonder if there would be a way to make a sword scabbard core with that stuff...without all the rivets? Might be something to do a little experimenting with. It could save a helluva bunch of wood carving.
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Post by RickDastardly on Dec 8, 2017 14:01:43 GMT
I've made a few and used a lot of kydex sheaths for knives. Even made a case for my binoculars. There's one thing I can tell you: I hate it for the way it can cause scratches on a blade.
If there's the slightest bit of grit gets in there, you get longitudinal scratch marks every insertion and withdrawal. There's no give to the plastic like with softer materials which the grit could sink into, but the grit tends to get slightly embedded into the plastic making it hard to get rid of. It just acts like an abrasive then.
The best way to use it IMO is to have an additional liner inside the kydex and use the kydex for (some) rigidity. thin leather, suede, felt, whatever.
There are loads of instructions on the web for bending kydex. I like to make a taco version, which folds around the spine rather than being riveted on the spine side. It's slimmer, neater and more rigid that way. Kydex is really easy to work with in a domestic oven, or carefully with a heat gun. You can glue kydex too with a solvent adhesive like is used for PVC.
Another option is to use Chicago screws instead of rivets to allow it to be opened up for cleaning.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Dec 8, 2017 14:46:32 GMT
That's what I was thinking for a sword scabbard core. Line it with wool felt or something. Seems like one ought to be able to cut one piece just slightly bigger than the blade, then another a little bit bigger than that. Mold your blade around the bigger piece, then lay the smaller piece on top and mold that to the blade. Then you will have a little bit of a rim of the bigger piece that you can heat and fold over the smaller piece. Then wrap the whole thing in leather and stitch. Instant scabbard. In MY WAY of thinking, anyway. Dang that was a lot of brainstorming in just a few minutes!!
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Post by Jordan Williams on Dec 9, 2017 3:33:32 GMT
Maybe it could overlap and be riveted, a long with a felt or cloth lining to prevent scratches, then coated in leather as well.
Edit; or maybe even stitched?
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Dec 9, 2017 15:42:44 GMT
I'm thinking something more along the lines of a 'second skin'. Avoiding the rivets is my entire mind-set at this moment. Stitching through Kydex? Possible, I guess, with some trial-n-error efforts. That would be interesting. I can see many members here that would like to leave their stock scabbards at home, and travel in a casing of almost indestructible material.
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Dec 9, 2017 15:55:39 GMT
This is neat-o......Really got my mind churning now. Dammit...as if I didn't have enough up there clogging the pipes. 'Tis alright though...I have beer. "Liquid Brain-O".....
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Post by Svadilfari on Dec 12, 2017 2:46:50 GMT
I've not tried it..yet..but how about this idea ? Instead of expensive Kydex..how about ordinary PVC conduit and a heat gun ? With a lil trial and error..heating the conduit and flattening out between two boards should produce a workable scabbard core that could be easily shaped and covered with leather for a more "traditional" look ? As for the grit problem mentioned..the same fixes could be used with PVC ?
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