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Post by WesD on Oct 26, 2017 14:08:52 GMT
I am looking at buying a new sword. I have owned one small sword in the past that I used to cut sticks and brush. It held up well for years, then finally broke. It is now a dagger and a knife. I have replaced that sword with a katana machete from Cold Steel. I am wanting to purchase a real and substantial sword that I can use on occasion for this same purpose. I would like a katana, but I'm not set on any particular style. I would prefer a two-handed sword, though. I like the length and weight of a katana. Whatever I get, I want it to look nice and function very well. It will spend most of its time on display, but I feel that a sword is pointless if you cannot do real work with it. Since I have no need to take it into battle sticks and boards will have to suffice. I am looking at this one. sbg-sword-store.sword-buyers-guide.com/Kaze.htmlWhat swords would you recommend? How far is too far to push a sword and what are reasonable expectations for performance? I am really wanting to avoid the expense of trial an error. Thanks a lot!
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Post by Faldarin on Oct 26, 2017 14:38:21 GMT
Hey, WesD.
If you're looking for something to cut brush with - or chop at trees - the cold steel is probably one of your better choices. You've already got it. However, if you're looking for a sword for this kind of 'hard' use? I'd not get a differentially-hardened blade. I would get something through-hardened.
In my opinion, if you're okay with that price range - you should check out either the Dojo Pro from Ronin, or a 9260 Huawei TH blade. It's not quite as pretty, doesn't have a hamon, but either of those would likely last longer for you.
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Post by Dalin Caulder on Oct 26, 2017 14:52:25 GMT
yeah, make sure the blade is made of appropriate steel. 9260, 5160 or in europe EN45 is supposed to be similar to 9260.
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Post by WesD on Oct 26, 2017 14:57:31 GMT
Thanks, guys. That's what I needed to know.
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Post by dchisenh on Oct 26, 2017 15:05:59 GMT
yeah, make sure the blade is made of appropriate steel. 9260, 5160 or in europe EN45 is supposed to be similar to 9260. Personally, I prefer 9260 or 5160 if I plan on seriously chopping. I'm not a fan of EN45 or the 10XX steels unless I'm SURE it's been heat treated by someone I trust to know what they're doing. If your intention is to chop brush, I'd take a look at the A.P.O.C. Survival Katana by Dragon King/Hanwei or the Tactical Katana by Scorpion Swords and Knives; both available through the SBG store. Do some searches on them to see what they can do and go with the one you like within your budget. It sounds like your set on a katana style blade, but if your goal is to chop brush, a nice machete is hard to beat.
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AndiTheBarvarian
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Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 26, 2017 17:51:28 GMT
There is not a big difference between EN45, 9260, 5160, 1060 or 1045 to 1095, T1 etc. for a sword blade, the heat treatment us much more important. But you often can deduce from the steel a maker uses to the probable heat treat. EN45 is a very good steel but usually used by a maker of decorative swords with bad or no heat treatment. Spring steels with 0,6 % carbon XX60 usually are used for through hardened and tempered swords (TH) with not so hard edges like a differentially hardened blade (DH) but with a much tougher blade. That's better for beginners and especially for "samurai gardening" (for which the katana machete is probably the best sword). Higher carbon content like in 1095, T1 etc. makes sense for differentially hardened swords. Of course you can through harden a 1095 blade and differentially harden a 1045 blade too. Thumb-rules: Steel type 5% - heat treatment 95%. TH = better for heavy cutting. DH = better for experienced cutters who know what they have and do.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Oct 26, 2017 22:02:01 GMT
I have a Kaze and it's a good sword. I would not choose one for that kind of use, though. The consistently most recommended katana for real tough cutting is the Hanwei Raptor. kultofathena.com/s_results.asp?search=hanwei+raptor&submit=SearchBear in mind that katana were built strictly to cut people, and meat and living bone is a lot different than wood and the like. The are prone to bending on harder targets or with poor edge alignment. Even the somewhat legendary Raptor will bend or break with prolonged and/or repeated abuse. Almost all swords of any type will. I do feel that it's the best choice for your intended tasks based on its reputation, though. Also, katana handles are absolutely more likely to break with that kind of use. On a Euro the handle components are usually epoxied and peened, with the tang running all the way through and even then they break. On a katana the tang is usually about 3/4's the length of the handle and held in by friction and bamboo pins. Not trying to dissuade you from getting one, just wanted you to be as well informed as possible.
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christain
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It's the steel on the inside that counts.
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Post by christain on Oct 26, 2017 22:37:56 GMT
Unless you are just dead-set on a Katana, go for the Hanwei/Tinker Norman. One of the best all-around 'chopping up backyard stuff' swords I've come across. It's not much to look at, but it's got a hella lot of bang for not a lotta buck. .....Chris
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Post by johnwalter on Oct 27, 2017 2:17:19 GMT
In a katana,I would recommend a Raptor.Tho keep in mind they are not designed for such use,but the Raptors are very tough swords. For your intended use,I would also recommend looking at the Hanwei Banshee.Very tough,versatile,and fun sword. Maybe a Hanwei Dark Sentinel.
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