Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2008 13:24:51 GMT
I'm in the market for another Hand and a Half sword and this time around I want one that is built a tough as possible (for the under $300 price range anyway). I would love to hear from others as to their own experience. Which bastard sword have you found to be the toughest? Is there one that you have used for a great deal of cutting without any major problems? Any help and information is appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by ShooterMike on Jun 13, 2008 13:47:39 GMT
My Hanwei Hand-n-a-half Albrecht II has taken WAAAYYY more abuse than anyone would expect it to survive. I used it for a cutter and also for a tire pell sword for a good 6 months straight when I first got it. Everything is still tight as the day I got it. At the end of the following video you can see why I like this sword. It's endured all kinds of screwups! It has a hollow pommel, but that hasn't seemed to affect durability in this case. I have another pommel to install when it finally fails, but no need so far. ...But as always, your mileage may vary. As a second source, all the older ATrim swords I've gotten from Lee Reeves at The Armoury have been (so far) indestructible. And the handling is... ATrim! ;D The only hand-n-a-half he has on the website now is on the The Armoury Treasures Page, first at the top. It's listed at $325, which includes shipping, so it might be just a bit over what you want to pay. I have been sorely tempted to buy this sword. But I already have waaaayyyy tooooooo many.
|
|
|
Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jun 13, 2008 14:46:27 GMT
Mike, it's only 1 more. You can accomodate just 1 more. You know you want to, nay, need to...
& Yeah, I'll hapily endorse the Al II as well. I have zero complaints about mine. Well I'm scabby so I got the old Practical H&H and Sharpened it, taking the bevels right up to the spine - so it's enough like an Al II that a man on a speeding horse couldn't tell the difference. AnywayI'm very happy with it's durability. I like the stiffness. I've trimmed heaps of trees and driven it through 40 gallon drums, etc. It's a great cutter AND thruster. Two thumbs up.
|
|
|
Post by YlliwCir on Jun 13, 2008 18:42:17 GMT
I'll agree with Mike and Brenno, I haven't been able to break Al II either. Plus I just love the look of that blade. In the interest of full disclosure, Jason bent one on a test cut; www.swordsofvalor.com/cuttingtests2.htmlHowever, he stated it came sharp out of the box. Mine needed to be sharpened to cut well. In my opinion this probably contributed to the bend. (Now, I'll break mine, no doubt. ;D)
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2008 18:51:10 GMT
I like the look of the blade, but can't get past the pommel
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2008 22:56:45 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2008 22:58:32 GMT
I'm thinking anything by Gen2 and Darkswords will be good.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2008 0:40:02 GMT
Ooh that hanwei bastard looks very nice, but its a beast at 50" long.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2008 6:28:58 GMT
The toughest sword I have ever handled was the original Gen 2 Black Prince. Too heavy for most people's taste. Those are not being made any more. The current one sold under that name is much lighter.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2008 22:07:45 GMT
but it is oh so much sexier
|
|
|
Post by Brian of DBK on Jun 21, 2008 1:27:54 GMT
The toughest sword I have ever handled was the original Gen 2 Black Prince. Too heavy for most people's taste. Those are not being made any more. The current one sold under that name is much lighter. Once the grip is shaven down to a manageable size, it's quite a beautiful piece. This is one that I need for myself.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2008 21:56:37 GMT
Is there any chance Hanwei might be doing a solid pommel for the Al II like on their new bastard
|
|
|
Post by bpogue on Jun 23, 2008 12:56:02 GMT
Is there any chance Hanwei might be doing a solid pommel for the Al II like on their new bastard Yes! All models are going to solid pommels, although I do not know the time frame on the Al II. It takes time to re-do tooling, etc. It may already be solid, I have not been able to handle a newer one in a while. Of course, there were hollow pommels historically, just depended on what function and style dictated (large pommel on a small sword either has to be very thin or hollow, otherwise there's no blade presence). Blake
|
|
|
Post by ShooterMike on Jun 23, 2008 14:23:37 GMT
Just a point to consider... The pommel on the Albrecht II is based on a specific historical sword (Oakeshott's XVIIIa.1). However, the pommel on the Hanwei version seems to be ever so slightly larger than the original, based on the only known photograph of that original. I personally think the handling of the Hanwei version is very good, so I'd hate to see it changed too much. To me, it isn't the fact that the pommel is hollow that causes concern. The stainless steel these pommels are made of is among the hardest, most durable metal I've ever encountered. Just try drilling a hole in one. It will require a tungsten carbide bit (or two) to drill a single hole through the thin side of the Albrecht pommel. The thing I personally don't like about this construction is how the grip side opening is very large and the wood of the grip goes completely through the pommel. And a threaded rod is welded to the tang, then screwed into the thin, threaded rear opening of the pommel. It the rod bends to any degree, the rod's soft threads strip out and the pommel comes off. This could easily be corrected by keeping the pommel hollow, slightly reducing the size to more closely match the original, but closing up the grip-side opening to only allow the tang through the pommel. Make the tang extend all the way through the pommel in proper medieval sword fashion (like the Hanwei Edward III), and peen the end over. IMO, that would result in a near indestructible sword, while retaining the current good handling properties without requiring a complete redesign of the blade to work well with a solid pommel. Food for thought maybe?... But it might be difficult to communicate these instructions to the Chinese forge?
|
|
|
Post by rammstein on Jun 24, 2008 15:21:53 GMT
Remember when selecting your sword that many things need to be taken into account other than toughness. If touchness was the only criteria, starfire or badgerblades are heartily recommended. But I can almost guarantee that you'll not like them as they are large and cumbersome - but they're near indestructable.
I think what you mean by tough is that you want a good handling sword that cuts well AND is pretty solid and won't break on botched cuts. With that in mind, the darksword gothic might be up your ally. It's frighteningly strong and (when sharpened) cuts pretty well. And on top of that, it handles like a charm too.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2008 22:35:06 GMT
Ramm is right of course...I do want a tough sword, but one that can be handled well. I just didn't want to throw out one of those "Which is the best," questions as that is very subjective criteria.
I just want to avoid the problems that I ran into with my Cold Steel. I do not want to handle a sword with kid gloves...they are weapons of war and I like to do some pell bashing from time to time. I don't want some metal object that will fall apart.
My Windlass Sticklestad is peened, tough as nails and had held up without getting loose at all. Heck, the USGI machete is sold for about $20-$30 and can hold up to chopping down trees, you would think a $300 sword could hold up nearly as well. I know, i know, they are different tools for different jobs, but you get my point.
|
|