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Post by bpogue on Jun 12, 2008 21:13:34 GMT
I couldn't let Shootermike have ALL the fun, and with a defunct Bastard Sword hanging around (after filing down the peen to show you all that indeed it did have a solid pommel now!) I thought it was a good opportunity to let the creative juices go... So, my intentions were; to shorten the blade until the fuller went under the guard, make a slightly longer grip with a bit more taper to it, figure how to do cord risers and the leather wrap. I took off WAY more tang the Mike, as can be seen here half complete: Here it is finished: A 3/4 shot of the shoulder: And finally the thickness: I used a dremel with the reinforced cutoff discs to make the long cut and used a round carbide grinding bit with a high speed ... (I need to look it up). This allowed me to get the round shoulder I wanted. I left the tang wide enough so I could press fit the guard on, b ut this didn't turn out right. I'm not sure why but after hammering it on I was able to loosen it up a bit. Plan B entailed using copper wedges to seat the guard. I cut up some pipe and hammered the pieces into little wedges. Then inserted them between the guard and tang and using a punch filled the space up, nice and tight. The pommel hammered on quite nicely, no need for wedges. I don't have any pics of the handle making, unfortunately. I took a length of 1 1/4" ash pole and split it on my table saw (a band saw would work MUCH better). Then I traced the tang on the two halves and started chiseling. Once complete I glued up the sandwich using gorilla glue and wrapped it with twine. The next day I used a flat and half-round rasp to shape the handle the way I wanted it. I used twine for the risers (with marginal success) and re-used the original black leather grip wrap (which didn't make it all the way around in the middle). I did a dry fit test earlier without the risers that worked... oh well. I'll have to re-do the wrap eventually. This is OK because the handle actually needs to be shortened by 2-3". The two blade nodes are way out of whack currently. The node on the handle is at my pinky finger, it should be at the top. Here are pics of the handle and grip all wrapped up for drying: And another showing that I haven't peened it yet: More to come tomorrow...
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Post by ShooterMike on Jun 13, 2008 2:12:23 GMT
Hey Blake, that looks like it's gonna turn out nice... VERY nice! I'm really glad to hear that you're also working on adjusting the rear node. I was wondering about how to move that. I can hardly wait to see how it turns out and just how you're able to move the node. This is exactly what I want to do to mine when I get some extra time.
Please keep a running post on the progress and keep us in the loop on all that you try on this project. Interested folks want to know... ;D
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Post by Brian of DBK on Jun 13, 2008 2:46:39 GMT
Very cool Blake. I've always wanted one of those swords. You could always send the sword to me, and I'll do the grip for you
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Post by bpogue on Jun 13, 2008 13:00:12 GMT
Thanks guys, Mike, I need to consult with someone who knows what they're doing to actually move the rear node. My gut says to shorten the grip a bit, but I'm unsure by how much... Brian, Thanks! It's been good seeing your progression in the customization market. If it was for me and I wanted something really nice I'd send it your way in a heartbeat... but this is an exercise in learning for me so I want to figure these things out for my own Okay, so wrap is dry, pics: And another: The profile (I'm pretty happy with this): From the side, pooch in the middle needs to go: And now the BAD So, I've learned a few things. Twine makes a decent outerwrap for a really rustic, used look. On the other hand it makes a not-so-good riser material, it was too hard making the ends stand up correctly and stay in place. I need to read up on risers... The bulge in the middle is excessive and seems unnecessary now, it will be gone with the next iteration. Wood glue is hard... I'm going to have to destroy every bit of the grip to re-shape the handle underneath. Blake
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Post by jpfranco on Jun 13, 2008 14:10:20 GMT
That is a nice looking custom job pal. +1 karma
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2008 14:12:21 GMT
Leather is a better option for riser material
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jun 13, 2008 14:39:40 GMT
Ah, BW, you've been listening. YES, Leather cord is the only choice for risers - because it doesn't fray. Try making a clean join with anything else and you're pushing it up hill. Leather joins smooth and crisp.
Another trick with risers is to hold them in place with sticky tape till the glue dries.
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Post by bpogue on Jun 13, 2008 16:12:56 GMT
Thanks JP!
BW, Brenno, thanks for the tip on using leather. I need to find a local source... Also, I'm guessing linen cord is the preferred cord wrap?
I was testing out some other prototypes and decided to give this one a go, cut up a few bottles OK with the factory edge. It's much more manageable now, that's for sure.
So, instead of shortening the grip first I'm going to play with the distal taper of the blade to see if I can move the nodes around. I'm going to make the tip lenticular and take a good bit off, leaving it pretty chunky from the fuller to the guard. It'll take a while since I only have files to do the work...
Blake
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2008 14:50:14 GMT
This is really cool. It's an inspiration to those of us who like to toy with things but aren't quite that experienced.
By the way, how long is the blade now?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2008 15:05:59 GMT
Pogue: If you can find a beading store they sell thin leather strands, either that or I am sure you can buy them off the net. Leather is the best option because it is pliable under the hand and will last a long time, it will also mold itself to the leather wrap alot better.
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Post by bpogue on Jul 8, 2008 16:17:38 GMT
Updates to the grip: Here is the re-shaped grip wrapped in cotton (need to get linen cord...) Profile: Quarter View: Here are the risers, I used a bit of leather cord upside-down for the central riser but felt it was too thick for all of them. I soaked the cotton string in glue and wrapped it twice tucking the start and end under the wrap. Held all in place with painters tape until dry: I then wrapped it in chamois leather and wrapped the parts between risers in the cord again. The chamois was good for learning but I'm doubtful on it's long-term hold up. And now for the money shots. Dye to be applied (any color recommendations?) then trimming and bees wax to finish:
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Post by bpogue on Jul 8, 2008 16:29:08 GMT
ncavin, Here are the current stats:
Overall: 46" Blade: 36" Handle: 10" Grip: 8" CoP: ~23 1/4" PoB: 4 1/2" Weight: 3lb 8oz
BW, Thanks for the tip! Michaels near me carries some Tandy leather and remnant bags but nothing suitable. They had plenty of cord though.
Shootermike, I gave my grinding skills a go at the shop down at CAS. I've got the tip lenticular and a good bit of the blade shaped better for this length, but it's still off the mark...
Blake
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Post by Deleted on Jul 8, 2008 16:50:45 GMT
Great beans of coolness Blake...looks good...you have been busy with it again. Do we get a looky at it this evening at longsword group? Bet bladesmith Will may be able to help with the node....suggestions anyway.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 8, 2008 17:02:27 GMT
Looks great! The new proportions are very nice - excellent work.
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Post by septofclansinclair on Jul 8, 2008 17:58:37 GMT
Blake - I always thought that a green dye would look good next to darker hilt and pommel. Just my preference!
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jul 9, 2008 1:12:45 GMT
Looks great Blake!
The notes of percussion won't move around much more, with only minor reshaping. You can probably feel where the hilt node is when you strike the pommel.
For fine reshaping of the blade that won't generate heat, drawfiling is the go. It's great for edges and tips, and for smoothing out any bumps.
Draw Filing: Use a new 2nd cut Mill File. Its the type that only has teeth on angle, not crossed. Hold it perpendicular to the blade, and just draw backward and forward. Don't use much pressure, just weight it very lightly. Tips: *Lubricate the File often with Chalk - you know the metalworking type that you use in the workshop to mark things up - the hard translucent stuff. *Dust of the filings often, so they don't get trapped under and cause gouges. *Once shaped, sand up with 180 grit on a small block.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 24, 2008 9:43:42 GMT
This is much like what I would like to do (when I can afford a sword). It looks fantastic, wish the whole sword was pictured tho'
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Post by Jeff K. ( Jak) on Dec 24, 2008 16:56:53 GMT
WELL!! Ringpommel, thanks for bringing this thread back from the dead! I completely missed this one origionally. Its strange because the other day I was looking at mine and thinking a newly shaped (and better fitting) grip would do wonders for this sword. Great job Blake...I especially like your placement of risers. Id like to see a finished shot if you have one...thoguh I think I will go for oxblood dye.
Luckily when I cut mine down last year I cut very little off..just enough to tighten up the guard...now the gears are turning! I noticed on mine that the pommel is lopsided...I imagine its the same with all of them. Does anyone have or know where to get spare pommels? I think A scent stopper on this sword would do a lot for it.
Thanks Jeff
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Post by Deleted on Dec 25, 2008 6:40:33 GMT
I don't think post's like this should ever die . Shootermike did one as well ( he may still be messin' with it). I hope one day for new photos and updates form both, even more so I hope to show my OWN ;D.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 25, 2008 6:48:59 GMT
Excuse me FROM both (dang keyboard)!
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