|
Post by Verity on Aug 9, 2017 2:19:52 GMT
You are correct about the rounding the corners, that is why I said “slightly” compressible. When I tried the stone on the katana I got a hair line contact area and this hair ling would change on each pass. With the mouse pad, and not all are the same and I have discard quite a few, I was able to satisfactorily cover the area below the bo-hi. Below is a Windlass Javelin head someone gave me and typical to Windlass the details were somewhat washed out. I sharpened it and redefined the ridge better than the factory using a mouse pad. If my padding was soft enough to allow the paper to pass over the ridge line, or if you will wrap to some degree around the ridge, yeah then I would have rounded things off and lost the definition I was looking for. “Slightly” compressible is the word. There are many methods and what works for one may not work for another. I have several methods and at times find it necessary to change depending on circumstances. No one method works all the time for me. I think we essentially are saying the same thing... :) The spearhead looks great btw.
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Aug 9, 2017 2:25:59 GMT
I think we essentially are saying the same thing... :) The spearhead looks great btw. Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by MLanteigne on Aug 9, 2017 2:56:17 GMT
This is...daunting lol. Well once I get the practice sword in the mail I'll get a block of hardwood and start practicing. How do you guys attach the sandpaper to the block of wood...tape? And are you using a lubricant of any kind?
|
|
|
Post by Verity on Aug 9, 2017 3:39:00 GMT
This is...daunting lol. Well once I get the practice sword in the mail I'll get a block of hardwood and start practicing. How do you guys attach the sandpaper to the block of wood...tape? And are you using a lubricant of any kind? I use masking tape. And yes I use mineral oil
|
|
|
Post by treeslicer on Aug 9, 2017 4:20:47 GMT
One thing I do, to follow (or produce) a curved contour (niku) easily and reliably, is to use an old credit or gift card (flat areas of it only) as a semi-flexible backing for abrasive paper/cloth. I also produce my own ultra fines by picking up dried hato or jito uchigomori slurry off the face of a nagura stone onto a piece of blue disposable shop towel, t-shirt material, or an optical cleaning cloth. What combination I use depends on the stage I'm at and what I'm doing. Not to insult anyone's intelligence, but be extraordinarily careful in handling swords while polishing. IMHO, the barehanded nonchalance shown toward edges in some videos shouldn't be copied by beginners. When you polish the blade with one hand and steady with the other, hold the blade from behind the mune, and never curl your fingers over the edge, Better yet, hold it (or clamp it) by the nakago, and use a steadying bench of some kind made to suit your own work style.
|
|