|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 27, 2017 22:41:08 GMT
Not enough space to peen, maybe threading would work? Really don't want to grind down the blade shoulders as the makers mark is quite close to the tang. What would you knowledgeable folks suggest? It's been suggested to get a Smith to hammer the tang longer, but I want to see as many suggestions as I could. Posting this here as I think it fits a bit better.
|
|
LeMal
Member
Posts: 1,085
|
Post by LeMal on May 28, 2017 0:22:53 GMT
How historically authentic are you trying to be?
If it doesn't matter, what I've done in the same circumstance is cut threads, screw on alternating nuts and washers, slip that pommel cap on, and fill it from the grip end. (My preference is hot-melt adhesive, but a number of things, like epoxy, will work.
Then attach and shape the rest of what you find to be a satisfactory grip in front of that.
|
|
Alan Schiff
Registered
Manufacturers and Vendors
Posts: 464
|
Post by Alan Schiff on May 28, 2017 19:19:05 GMT
You can thread the tang and use a recessed nut, or you can get someone to build up some weld onto the end of the tang. You don't need to lengthen it very much.
Hope that helps, Alan
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 29, 2017 4:50:33 GMT
flintbow, the gilt on the pommel is still intact, I think someone just managed to break or carefully file down the tang. Perhaps it never had a grip But the blade is ground down in the belly and even seems slightly sharp. So I think it was simply heavily used in our American wars. You can thread the tang and use a recessed nut, or you can get someone to build up some weld onto the end of the tang. You don't need to lengthen it very much. Hope that helps, Alan I was thinking about doing that, (threading and recessing a tang nut, ala Hanwei Tinker) but wouldn't even know where to start. (Or who to ask) How historically authentic are you trying to be? If it doesn't matter, what I've done in the same circumstance is cut threads, screw on alternating nuts and washers, slip that pommel cap on, and fill it from the grip end. (My preference is hot-melt adhesive, but a number of things, like epoxy, will work. Then attach and shape the rest of what you find to be a satisfactory grip in front of that. Authenticity in construction doesn't bother me too much, although I'm not entirely sure what you mean. Do you mean sort of like shimming the pommel with nuts and washers?
|
|
LeMal
Member
Posts: 1,085
|
Post by LeMal on May 29, 2017 5:44:44 GMT
They act as a secured "internal pommel." If you want to think of it as "shimmed," it's the combination
of the nuts/washers and the space-filling feature of the holt-melt adhesive (or epoxy) inside the pommel cap that gives a secure pommel section. I.e. 1. Remove the pommel cap 2. Cut threads into the tang end 3. Screw a couple washers and nuts onto the threaded tang, alternating them. Make sure you use washers that are no larger than the aperture on the pommel cap (because of step 4). 4. Slip the pommel cap back over the nuts/washers 5. From the aperture (grip) end, pour hot melt adhesive in to be space-filling of the gaps between the nuts/washers and pommel cap. 5. Then make a grip in front of the secured pommel section, e.g. with wood slaps sandwiched around the tang, shaped as desired, cord- or leather-wrapped, whatever. (Quick pic but hopefully it helps visualise what I mean: )
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 29, 2017 7:08:55 GMT
Ahh now I see what you mean. Although I don't think there's enough material in the pommel where the tang goes through to form a stop that's sufficient enough.
I think a recessed nut may be my best bet, do you know the best way to do this or someone I could send it to?
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 29, 2017 7:11:23 GMT
How many MM of tang would be needed for s gold hot/cold peen?
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 29, 2017 16:48:51 GMT
I have a new grip from Tom Nardi on the way, (rayskin, wiring, wood core, and the leather washer all) so I've got the grip covered, but I am wondering if that could be used to make a plug, like going around the tang in the grip and over and around the tang, making a "peen" with it.
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 29, 2017 21:50:33 GMT
Here's what I'm thinking so far. The green is the putty like epoxy to act as plugs and and orange is the liquid epoxy. Now I just have to find American links or versions of the epoxy you linked me toooo
|
|
|
Post by berntk on May 30, 2017 12:41:51 GMT
As was mentioned in the thread before you moved it, the probably best way is to have someone with a hot torch and an anvil hammer the tang to stretch the metal a few mm (up to 1/4") and just repeen it normally. As Alan Schiff says, it's also practicable to weld on a lump on the peen end with MIG/TIG, and peen as usual. I'd see a metalworker; any mechanical workshop should be able to assist. No epoxy needed, and the repair will be indistinguishable from the original.
IMO, of course.
B
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on May 30, 2017 21:01:26 GMT
What about sanding down the pommel?
|
|
|
Post by Jordan Williams on May 31, 2017 3:25:20 GMT
What about sanding down the pommel? I thought about That, but decided against it as it would essentially get rid of one of the pommels more prominent features. I also thought about sanding down a tint amount of pommel and a tiny amount of blade, but after measuring I'd need to do m9re removal then I'm comfortable with to achieve that.
|
|