shing
Registered
Posts: 11
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Post by shing on Mar 31, 2017 19:26:40 GMT
Looking at Gaffer's guide but it isn't really clear about the top and bottom. I have a H/T Viking that I want to re-wrap. Do I skive the top and bottom of the wrap? And if so how far in should I go? How much overlap should I have? If I end up with too much can I trim it off? Do I wrap the skived part under the other leather? Obviously I'm not removing the handle so it seems to make things more complex. Sorry for all the questions to anybody that's willing to assist.
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Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
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Post by Ifrit on Mar 31, 2017 19:56:28 GMT
You skiv under the top part of the leather. I would do both sides, personally. But perhaps someone else would chime in their preference as well
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Mar 31, 2017 20:00:28 GMT
You skiv under the top part of the leather. I would do both sides, personally. But perhaps someone else would chime in their preference as well I skiv both sides of the leather to make it thin and pliable enough to overlay one piece over the other without making it bulge out. There are others on this page with much more experience than me like Brendan Olszowy and Huer-Ta off the top of my head who would be able to give you much better advice.
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Post by Bryan Heff on Apr 4, 2017 13:33:30 GMT
I also skiv both ends. Just go as thin as you can at the very edge so when its glued that seam almost disappears. I have come to find that I really sharp filet knife works pretty well to skiv...if you don't have a good "official" skiv.
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Apr 4, 2017 22:57:17 GMT
I also skiv both ends. Just go as thin as you can at the very edge so when its glued that seam almost disappears. I have come to find that I really sharp filet knife works pretty well to skiv...if you don't have a good "official" skiv. I bought some skiving knives and found that a really sharp Protech I own does a much better and finer job. I'm sure a good and sharp fillet knife would be great as well.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Apr 5, 2017 13:29:57 GMT
I skive both overlaying ends (on the side) that form the seam but usually not the top and bottom end that contact guard and pommel.
I leave the leather overly long (sticking out past the end of the grip, onto the pommel) because especially more complex grip shapes (waisted profiles for example) require some weird leather shapes that are nigh on impossible to nail before wrapping. The guard side is easily lined up but the far end I just leave longer than necessary, wrap the grip (followed by the cord overwrap) and trim off the excess once the leather has dried.
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shing
Registered
Posts: 11
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Post by shing on Apr 7, 2017 19:31:21 GMT
Thanks for the tips. I used some 2-3oz leather on a windlass ulfberht. Used the Super Skiver but it seems like a hang of alot of work to skive. Glued it on and cord wrapped it last night so will unwrap tonight. Crossing fingers.
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