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Post by unlikely on Feb 15, 2017 20:38:46 GMT
I snagged a Jian for $40 off at KoA as it is blemished. I got it here today, it has very fine pitting around the sword, and the sword case itself is rusted in some places at the hinges-- I can only assume that it was placed somewhere humid and left there a long time. Is there a good way to remove pitting without harming the integrity of the blade? I guess I don't care all that much if some of the folding lines are lost in the process as they're difficult to notice in the areas where it's pitted anyways, but if it's avoidable I'd like to keep them in tact.
Edit: all of the ways I've been reading into seem to be applicable to knives but I think would be pretty bad for something longer. Is trying to remove the pitting even advisable?
I also intend to write a review for the jian once it's all cleaned up and functional, as it also needs to be sharpened and there's a slightly loose fitting that needs some tending to. Thanks for the help folks.
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Post by Verity on Feb 15, 2017 21:26:36 GMT
For non antiques or non-finished (blued etc). One trick that can work is wet (with water) aluminum foil. Then clean with mineral spirits or alcohol and a good oil wipe down.
Water and aluminum foil has a "sucking out rust" effect.
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Post by Verity on Feb 15, 2017 21:27:11 GMT
You could also opt to polish the rust out too.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 16, 2017 1:47:52 GMT
It depends on the depth of the pitting as to how aggressively you would want to attack it. Metal polish will do it. But if you start with metal polish you might very well spend more elbow grease than desired. A more aggressive approach would be wet/dry sandpaper used with a light oil such as WD-40. I would use a small sanding block with a compressible material such as a mouse pad between the block and paper. Probably started with 220 or 340 grit until the pits are removed, then progressively use finer papers to polish until you get the degree of shine desired. If you reach 1500 or 2000 grit and wish more shine switch to metal polish. You stated the sword needed sharpening. The sandpaper will do this also and you can kill two birds with one stone at the same time.
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Post by unlikely on Feb 16, 2017 3:14:24 GMT
It depends on the depth of the pitting as to how aggressively you would want to attack it. Metal polish will do it. But if you start with metal polish you might very well spend more elbow grease than desired. A more aggressive approach would be wet/dry sandpaper used with a light oil such as WD-40. I would use a small sanding block with a compressible material such as a mouse pad between the block and paper. Probably started with 220 or 340 grit until the pits are removed, then progressively use finer papers to polish until you get the degree of shine desired. If you reach 1500 or 2000 grit and wish more shine switch to metal polish. You stated the sword needed sharpening. The sandpaper will do this also and you can kill two birds with one stone at the same time. Thank ya', sir. The pitting is extremely shallow (it's actually difficult to discern via touch, but it is clearly visible).
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Mar 26, 2017 23:32:45 GMT
For non antiques or non-finished (blued etc). One trick that can work is wet (with water) aluminum foil. Then clean with mineral spirits or alcohol and a good oil wipe down. Water and aluminum foil has a "sucking out rust" effect. How do you do that? The water wont rust the blade?
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Post by vermithrax on Mar 26, 2017 23:43:37 GMT
For non antiques or non-finished (blued etc). One trick that can work is wet (with water) aluminum foil. Then clean with mineral spirits or alcohol and a good oil wipe down. Water and aluminum foil has a "sucking out rust" effect. How do you do that? The water wont rust the blade? I would imagine an alcohol cleaning is done after to remove the water.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Mar 27, 2017 0:39:40 GMT
How do you do that? The water wont rust the blade? I would imagine an alcohol cleaning is done after to remove the water. Don’t confuse rust with pitting. Pitting is the result of rust and it’s entirely possible to remove rust while the pitting remains. True water causes rust. Alcohol will dry water and I used that method many times in the lab to speed up drying glassware. And to really get it clean and dry rinse with ether afterwards. Both of which is more expensive and time consuming than necessary in your case. Dry the water with a good grade of paper towel. This absorbs better than say a cotton cloth. Then apply a water displacing oil. WD-40 is very good for this. In fact the WD stands for water displacing.
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Post by vermithrax on Mar 27, 2017 0:44:57 GMT
I would imagine an alcohol cleaning is done after to remove the water. Don’t confuse rust with pitting. Pitting is the result of rust and it’s entirely possible to remove rust while the pitting remains. True water causes rust. Alcohol will dry water and I used that method many times in the lab to speed up drying glassware. And to really get it clean and dry rinse with ether afterwards. Both of which is more expensive and time consuming than necessary in your case. Dry the water with a good grade of paper towel. This absorbs better than say a cotton cloth. Then apply a water displacing oil. WD-40 is very good for this. In fact the WD stands for water displacing. pgandy, are you a fellow scientist? I am a 20 year molecular biologist (sort of well known) so I caught your lab reference.
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Ifrit
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More edgy than a double edge sword
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Post by Ifrit on Mar 27, 2017 0:46:38 GMT
My only issue with WD 40 is the smell. I like it, but i don't got a scabbard for this sword so i just keep it on my bed. Might smell up my sheets
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Post by vermithrax on Mar 27, 2017 0:52:24 GMT
Singer machine oil is odorless at least to me. But former boxer and nose broken 6 times, so I don't smell so well.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Mar 27, 2017 0:58:36 GMT
There are others out there such as Break-Free, CLP, amongst the many. WD-40 is probably the easiest and cheapest to obtain. Also due to its low surface tension will probably flow into the cracks and out of the way places better.
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Mar 28, 2017 4:13:58 GMT
I tried the aluminum foil trick without water and it did a great job. The pittng and the rough spots are still there but it aint rust coloured anymore, and the guard is nice and shiney
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