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Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 27, 2016 22:34:46 GMT
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Post by chrisperoni on Nov 28, 2016 4:09:34 GMT
I have that 1st one you linked to but I've never seen it used for blades nor do I think it's any good for that. The belt can be tilted vertically but the large bumpers on each side make plunge line grinding no bueno I think, and it's crap for bevels and sharpening I know. Not sure if there is even a decent selection of belts for that size. It is great though for woodworking handles and scabbards.
The 2nd one you linked to is super small and expensive. You can do better with a 1x30 with a sanding disc on the side, and those can be found for 50 to 100 usually.
I've been looking at finding a cheap grinder that I can have a go at customizing. So far the cheapest grinders I can find that are known and used for blades though start around 500 bucks. Too much for me. There's some stuff by grizzly and trick tools that I keep reading about; look up those brands.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 28, 2016 12:25:17 GMT
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Post by Voltan on Nov 28, 2016 18:21:23 GMT
This is the Kalamazoo model 2FS72M. It's a 2x72 with a 1/2 hp motor and an 8" contact wheel. I got it through Jantz supply. With shipping it was just a hair over $800. I did have to modify the platen though, as it is wider than the belts, and rounded on the corners, as you'll see in this first pic: I had a couple of 1" platens lying around from my 1x30 machines. I cut off the bottoms, and used high-temp JB Weld to mount them to the Kalamazoo's platen: The added platens firmly in place after the JB Weld fully cured: The belt lined up over the new/modified platen: Good to go: Now, I don't know if this would be an adequate machine for grinding sword blades or not. I won't be making anything much longer than 20" overall length with mine, but for that purpose, with the modified platen, I think it will serve me well. Keep in mind, I'm somewhat of a beginner still myself...
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Nov 28, 2016 18:34:12 GMT
Your are better off buying a Pheer PH409 or PH454. It will be more money but money well spend.
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Post by Voltan on Nov 28, 2016 18:35:35 GMT
Oh yeah, try talking to L Driggers (fallen) as well. Not sure what your budget is, but if you can manage to spend more than I could, he uses a Pheer grinder that is similar in design, yet less expensive than the highly sought after Bader BIII. The Pheer grinders are just a little more than I could afford at this time. Edit: Looks like Fallen chimed in 30 seconds before I clicked "post."
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Nov 28, 2016 18:57:26 GMT
Northridge is another one that can be upgraded to a tilting machine later. I plan on getting one if I can get my sales up. But first will be a mill/drill, forge press and power hammer. I'm getting older, still plenty strong now but sooner or later age is going to catch up with me.
There is also Esstem sure I mispelled that.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Nov 28, 2016 19:03:49 GMT
I hardy ever use a angle grinder any more since I got my 2hp VFD drive Pheer. With the right belts it is faster and I can get more even bevels.
If you just have to a cheap machine look into the Craftsman 2x42 I made a lot of knives on my. Still use it to put the final edge on my blade.
Remember send your blades to me to be heat treated.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Nov 28, 2016 22:08:57 GMT
All great replies, I'm on a pretty tight budget though. I think I might go for an angle grinder, I've used one to reprofile a blade before, so I have somewhat of an idea how to use one. Where's a good place to buy steel from?
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 28, 2016 22:10:20 GMT
One problem with the Kalamazoo is that it's seriously underpowered for big blades. If you want to grind sword blades and not take forever, you need more than 1hp. I have 1.5hp and variable speed, that's really what you need to work efficiently. And I can't stress enough how immensely helpful a variable speed drive is. I don't know what I'd do without. Certainly can't get even fuller terminations with the belt running at full speed ;)
@ Voltan: The thing with your modification is that you now can't grind lengthwise on the platen... at least not a large surface. But that's exactly the way you get long bevels flat. Not an issue on knife blades but for longer stuff, absolutely. I suggest you glue on a metal platen over the entire length of the original platen (or screw it on with countersunk bolts).
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Post by chrisperoni on Nov 29, 2016 3:20:42 GMT
The craftsman 2x42 is the one I'm waiting to have back in stock near me.
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Post by johnyblaze999 on Nov 6, 2018 12:46:25 GMT
This is seemingly an old thread, but I'll add my two cents. I have three 2x72 grinders. One is out of production, one I made from scratch and a KMG recently purchased from Beaumont Metal Works.. I don't like to waste money and I did a lot of reading up and studying before I bought the KMG. I believe the KMG grinders are considered to be a good bang for the buck option. You get a very good machine for the money. Check out this site for a list of 11 different 2x72 grinders available. mechanicguides.com/best-belt-grinders/If cost is a concern there will be many grinders that will get crossed off the list. Pheer, Grinder-In-A- Box, Kalamazoo, Coote, Grizzly and all have there merits and are lower cost options. You can find plans for making your own grinder or for some shop made grinders on eBay. There is a lot of opinion and personal preference involved with rating any one machine. The KMG I bought is a very solid machine and you can buy them set up many different ways. I'm not trying to sell you on a KMG because there are many good grinders out there but costs are all over the board. Check out page 17 of this thread for how I saved some money setting up the KMG I bought. www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=3859&start=240You can buy your own motor and wire the machine yourself. Great advice on saving some money for belts. Belts are not cheap and they don't last forever. You'll need several of each grit to start. I use 36, 60, 120, 220, 320 grit belts and do quite a bit of hand finishing also. Belts are constant cost if you are busy making knives. Good luck. Let us know what you end up with and how you like it.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Nov 6, 2018 13:53:16 GMT
Yeah, old thread and didn’t notice until I was posting. Much will depend on your budget restraints, and some degree on the extent that you use it. I have a Work Sharp KO model. I have reprofiled blades as well as sharpened a host of different blades. While light for commercial use it works very well for my needs. It has a guide that is adjustable from 15°-30° which works great for kitchen knives, machetes, and some sword blades. It also works free hand when the case arises. It also has a guide for scissors and shears that I find useful. The price won’t break the budget and best of all there is a blade grinder attachment that will add more versatility and I had planned on adding but to tell the truth I’ve managed without it. I keep it boxed setting on the dining room table making it easily assessable.
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