The riddle of steel

Super steels will work as advertised... but then again, that doesn't mean they perform that much better than normal 10xx high carbon steels. Just that in certain conditions, they will. But never commensurate to the price. That's why the use of super steels will ultimately depend on how much you're willing to shell out just for a miniscule performance boost/knowledge that the steel is a tiny bit better than usual.

More often than not though, the use of these steels is a bit of a bragging/prestige thing.

There's a trade-off between "hard" and "tough". As-quenched, your steel is hard, but can be brittle. So you temper it, and increase the toughness, at the cost of losing some hardness.

A machete needs to be tough, so you temper for toughness, while retaining useful hardness. If it was a super-steel machete, it should be harder, while still being as tough. With suitable heat treatment, a super-steel machete would have survived everything your machete survived, and wouldn't have needed sharpening as often. If you found your machete was sharp enough, and you didn't need to spend too much time or effort sharpening it, you didn't need a super-steel machete.

For an example I can name some steels for, and put some numbers to: chef's knives. A chef's knife should be very hard, but doesn't need to be as tough as a machete, so it will be heat-treated to be quite hard. (A cleaver will need to be tough, and will usually be softer than a chef's knife.)

So what does a "super steel" give you here? For a chef's knife, X50CrMoV15 might end up with a hardness of 55-57HRC. An average super-steel, like VG-10, might give acceptable toughness at 60-61HRC. A top-end super-steel, like ZDP-189 (3% carbon!) might give you 66HRC. That's a huge difference in hardnesses. But plenty of people like their 55HRC X50CrMoV15 chef's knives. They'll cut. They just need to be sharpened more often, and won't support as acute an edge angle.

1776 has a thread in this section about a Steel rockwell-toughness chart.
There you can see with two steels heat treated to different hardness grades how lower-hardness tempering increases toughness and reduces hardness/wear resistance in the same steel.

Yeah, I learned much there too.
Also from Wikipedia all the steel and steelmaking history things.

I 've never heard that for a longer or more or less broader blade a certain steel is better than another.

I would rely on the steel, the bladesmith/producer usually works and is experienced with.
5160 seems to be good to work with, heat treating too.
Of course you don't want a 40" bidenhander with a katana-like diferrencial hardening.