Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 23, 2016 20:38:23 GMT
You make a good point. I've never actually held a wakizashi before. This blade is roughly 2' give or take.it has enough heft to aid in generating a nice thrust. But I doubt it could compare to an actual wak. I got the tip super pointy tho, so I would depend on that instead. Plus I used a sharpening stone and stropped it on leather to get it shaving sharp
|
|
|
Post by howler on Oct 23, 2016 20:38:29 GMT
Yes, a specialized cutter (wider/narrower) Chenese ko-katana (same weight as a regular katana...a tad over 2 1/2lbs). The idea is to strike the bad guy with incapacitating force in one blow coming out from a door, corner, behind something, etc... One must assume the bad guy may have a handgun, heavy leather clothing, people behind him. If you get a straight shot at the bad guy...he's DONE, with the others looking on in horror at the instant meat pile you just created. Maybe I stab the second person after the chop. You get the picture, which isn't pretty if you think about it. Anyway, I have been contemplating other bladed tactics. Rapier/dagger, pole arm, long spear, short spear, lance, longsword, regular katana, cavalry-infantry saber/dagger, machete in one hand and bowie in the other. If I go down, it will be because I had such a large selection, I couldn't make up my mind and was taken out by a cheap Chinese pocket knife. The truly silly thing is, I have a Springfield M1A, Colt AR15 carbine, Mossberg semi and pump shotguns, Glock 22, S&W 8-shot revolver, and more, so what am I doing fetishizing over arkaine bladed implements of destruction (including around thirty or so large bladed knives and heavy machete)? In short, I am a raving lunatic who is turning into a sharp, spiked version of Gollum. MY PRECIOUS! I recently invested in a 5000 lumen flashlight with a strobe function. Would be a great way to blind and confuse them, while you are seeing them perfectly If you can somehow rig that thing to turn on and off when your not close to it, the bad guy your lighting up will not know your location (the only reason I'm not wild about flashlights on firearms.
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 23, 2016 20:43:39 GMT
I recently invested in a 5000 lumen flashlight with a strobe function. Would be a great way to blind and confuse them, while you are seeing them perfectly If you can somehow rig that thing to turn on and off when your not close to it, the bad guy your lighting up will not know your location (the only reason I'm not wild about flashlights on firearms. I'll take my chances. He gonna be blinded and heavily disoriented, I'll see him perfectly. If I'm close enough that I would consider using it (as I would not use it until he got close) then I would probably close enough to strike. He eyes would be focused on the rapid blinking and I would be focused on my strike. One thing I learned at my old dojo that I kept with me was to use two methods to strike at once. In situations like this, it would apply well I would think. Kinda like how in a knife fight, it's good to strike with the off hand to distract while the knife hand immediately follows behind as he's dealing with the off hand strike
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 23, 2016 20:48:32 GMT
I also considered taping it to a spear and having the strobe on as I use rapid thrusts. I can imagine that to be extremely disorientating, especially if I come from around the corner. In the time they discovered my location, they will have many holes in them and I would be able to move out of the way
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 23, 2016 20:51:46 GMT
Imagine that. In the dark, you would only see a strobe light rapidly moving towards you, back and forth. You might not even notice the stabs cause of adrenaline. Before you know it, you got two or more deep holes in you
Apologies for three separate messages
|
|
|
Post by howler on Oct 23, 2016 22:16:20 GMT
You make a good point. I've never actually held a wakizashi before. This blade is roughly 2' give or take.it has enough heft to aid in generating a nice thrust. But I doubt it could compare to an actual wak. I got the tip super pointy tho, so I would depend on that instead. Plus I used a sharpening stone and stropped it on leather to get it shaving sharp Wakizashi is like 18" to 25" blade, while it appears that your blade is roughly tanto length (12" or so). The Ko-katana is a wakazashi length blade with a Katana size handle, instead of much smaller wakizashi handle). The idea is to make what you have work until you are able to upgrade (if you desire...and you WILL because your on this forum).
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 24, 2016 2:12:15 GMT
You make a good point. I've never actually held a wakizashi before. This blade is roughly 2' give or take.it has enough heft to aid in generating a nice thrust. But I doubt it could compare to an actual wak. I got the tip super pointy tho, so I would depend on that instead. Plus I used a sharpening stone and stropped it on leather to get it shaving sharp Wakizashi is like 18" to 25" blade, while it appears that your blade is roughly tanto length (12" or so). The Ko-katana is a wakazashi length blade with a Katana size handle, instead of much smaller wakizashi handle). The idea is to make what you have work until you are able to upgrade (if you desire...and you WILL because your on this forum). Definitely plan on upgrading. I already got a weird sword. Not sure what to call it. 2 1/2 foot blade and 2 foot handle. Definitely a good indoor weapon. Haven't actually measured it. Just grabbed a katana blade and made a handle cover almost half the length of the entire blade. Wakizashi length blade, nodachi like handle. I call it the ko-nodachi
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 24, 2016 3:16:41 GMT
A Nagamaki?
|
|
|
Post by howler on Oct 24, 2016 3:28:04 GMT
Wakizashi is like 18" to 25" blade, while it appears that your blade is roughly tanto length (12" or so). The Ko-katana is a wakazashi length blade with a Katana size handle, instead of much smaller wakizashi handle). The idea is to make what you have work until you are able to upgrade (if you desire...and you WILL because your on this forum). Definitely plan on upgrading. I already got a weird sword. Not sure what to call it. 2 1/2 foot blade and 2 foot handle. Definitely a good indoor weapon. Haven't actually measured it. Just grabbed a katana blade and made a handle cover almost half the length of the entire blade. Wakizashi length blade, nodachi like handle. I call it the ko-nodachi That actually sounds good...and deadly.
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 24, 2016 3:30:41 GMT
Yes that's the word. Thanks for the correction. I call it a Ko-Nagamaki. As it's still shorter than a katana. But it has a huge handle
|
|
|
Post by bluetrain on Oct 24, 2016 10:41:40 GMT
Adding to my comments about luck and fighting, I used to get in fights a lot when I was younger but I was lucky and only had to get stitches once. But eventually I figured out that if I was ever going to make it to the age I am now and stay out of jail in the meantime, I shouldn't get in fights. Although it is a good thing to win the fights you're in, it's usually better to avoid fighting in the first place, which is sometimes easier said than done. Unfortunately, sometimes you have to fight even if you haven't a snowball's chance of winning. Those are the times when running isn't an option, even if it is possible.
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 24, 2016 17:15:51 GMT
I agree with you on that. These days I avoid fights altogether. It just isn't worth it, even if you win. People are sore losers, and there is only so many times you can successfully protect yourself.
Plus I would like to stay out of trouble so I can become a gun owner and such. Maybe even a police officer one day. If the world goes down hill, I wouldn't want it to happen while I'm locked in a cage.
|
|
|
Post by bluetrain on Oct 24, 2016 17:45:36 GMT
The municipal bond market is sliding and there's a soft spot on one of our bathroom floors and I'm practically assured that's a sign of the end times. But Ford is coming out with a new pickup model, so I hope the end of the world doesn't interfere with that event.
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 24, 2016 18:39:34 GMT
I doubt it will happen anytime soon if it does happen. Ideally I'll be comfortably safe in the military by then
|
|
|
Post by Adventurer'sBlade on Oct 26, 2016 3:01:04 GMT
I doubt it will happen anytime soon if it does happen. Ideally I'll be comfortably safe in the military by then You might be safe, but I doubt you'll be comfortable.
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Oct 26, 2016 3:02:51 GMT
I doubt it will happen anytime soon if it does happen. Ideally I'll be comfortably safe in the military by then You might be safe, but I doubt you'll be comfortable. Slightly more than the guys outside I would hope 😂
|
|
|
Post by bluetrain on Nov 24, 2016 13:55:21 GMT
I just thought I'd add a few more comments to get this thread moving again, since it has been so interesting. I hope I'm not repeating myself too much.
First of all, a tactical sword is, or should be, a practical sword. In theory, all historical swords were practical sword, except for so-called dress or court swords and I suppose parade swords and so on. At any rate, our thinking about a practical tactical begins with historical examples. There are a thousand variations out there with about two thousand ideas of what they should be.
We could pick any of them and "modernize" it. I doubt that there have been any dramatic advances in metallurgy in the last 100 years as far as the materials go but weather-proof finishes available now are too good not to use. Likewise for scabbards. The most recent practical scabbards as used by militaries in the field (for swords) were leather-covered wood or even leather-covered metal. Some plastics now would presumably be better. But so much for the accessories.
Most of this is based on ideas that originated over a hundred years ago when a sword was still considered a combat weapon, although that was already controversial, as were bayonets. But the general feeling was that it the sword were retained, it had to be a real sword that you could cut and thrust with. This was the feeling in the US Army. There were a lot of assumptions and requirements. I will limit my comments to men on foot.
It was assumed that a man with a sword would be highly unlikely to fight another man armed with a sword. The sword should be light enough to be quick. How light and how quick are points of discussion. But it should definitely be a sword that you could cut with as well as thrust. That was soft of out of line with much thinking of the day. But on the other hand, some felt that the blade should be heavy enough so that the cuts were good. There was also the idea that the sword should be rather shorter than what most infantry swords were at the time, which was around 32 inches. Some felt the sword should be as short as 27 inches. It was just a matter handiness. At the same time, however, they wanted a longer grip, long enough for two-handed use, which is very surprising. All of this general describes what resulted in the experimental sword that was trialed before WWI, which I think was the 1905 or 1906 model. So far, so good. What is available right now that comes close? Or close to what you think is just about right?
Let me point out a couple of things. This is to be strictly combat weapon. No utility as a tool is expected. It should be as sharp as your best kitchen knife or you newest Buck pocket knife. Whatever else it might be, those are the essential requirements. We will assume away any issues with the scabbard.
I don't know what should be expected of a guard. Some swords had minimal handguards, others more enveloping. At least the handguard should prevent the hand from coming into contact with the razor sharp blade that we have specified. The grip may be more important and should be comfortable and non-slip. These days we could even hope for an adaptable grip like some handguns offer (interchangeable grip panels).
All of those things make up the wish list. What can we buy, now that we have saved up our $225 (our defense budget)?
There seem to be a fair number of swords that are highly practical, although we might have to nudge the price limit a little higher. Cold Steel is the first place to look. Keeping things generic, though, but still with things actually available, the first thing that comes to mind is a WWII Japanese NCO sword. The short comings are that it may not be the best thruster around but everything else is on the money. An original will set you back a little more, though. I did own one in my youth and although it seemed heavy to me at the time, it was everything you could ask for. You wouldn't want to do anything to an original but with a reproduction you could get the blade treated with something to make it less reflective and weatherproof. It even has a short blade. Other Japanese swords come to mind but that one is the most practical one, so you might as well start there. The biggest shortcoming was the weight of the scabbard but it was certainly stout.
Another good possibility is a modern (meaning pre-WWII, post Civil War) naval cutlass. Again about all that might be done is to get a modern finish on everything. Cold Steel did that but they went for a long blade on one version. We all have their own ideas.
The US Army officer's sword/saber is another good starting point. Cold Steel (who else?) supposedly make a good one but it needs to be toned down a little with a modern finish and the scabbard would have to have a sleeve. In fact, it may be the quickest of all of these.
Any other ideas?
|
|
|
Post by Derzis on Nov 24, 2016 14:51:46 GMT
Ontario Black Wind katana would have been my choice. If I can find one though ...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2016 16:03:28 GMT
Ontario Black Wind katana would have been my choice. If I can find one though ... They can still be found, but they're really expensive now, selling for 4-5 times the original price. I have one that I cut down to be my take on a modern wakizashi. I've yet to get close to finishing it. The original grind was very uneven
|
|
Ifrit
Member
More edgy than a double edge sword
Posts: 3,284
|
Post by Ifrit on Nov 24, 2016 23:26:30 GMT
I just thought I'd add a few more comments to get this thread moving again, since it has been so interesting. I hope I'm not repeating myself too much. First of all, a tactical sword is, or should be, a practical sword. In theory, all historical swords were practical sword, except for so-called dress or court swords and I suppose parade swords and so on. At any rate, our thinking about a practical tactical begins with historical examples. There are a thousand variations out there with about two thousand ideas of what they should be. We could pick any of them and "modernize" it. I doubt that there have been any dramatic advances in metallurgy in the last 100 years as far as the materials go but weather-proof finishes available now are too good not to use. Likewise for scabbards. The most recent practical scabbards as used by militaries in the field (for swords) were leather-covered wood or even leather-covered metal. Some plastics now would presumably be better. But so much for the accessories. Most of this is based on ideas that originated over a hundred years ago when a sword was still considered a combat weapon, although that was already controversial, as were bayonets. But the general feeling was that it the sword were retained, it had to be a real sword that you could cut and thrust with. This was the feeling in the US Army. There were a lot of assumptions and requirements. I will limit my comments to men on foot. It was assumed that a man with a sword would be highly unlikely to fight another man armed with a sword. The sword should be light enough to be quick. How light and how quick are points of discussion. But it should definitely be a sword that you could cut with as well as thrust. That was soft of out of line with much thinking of the day. But on the other hand, some felt that the blade should be heavy enough so that the cuts were good. There was also the idea that the sword should be rather shorter than what most infantry swords were at the time, which was around 32 inches. Some felt the sword should be as short as 27 inches. It was just a matter handiness. At the same time, however, they wanted a longer grip, long enough for two-handed use, which is very surprising. All of this general describes what resulted in the experimental sword that was trialed before WWI, which I think was the 1905 or 1906 model. So far, so good. What is available right now that comes close? Or close to what you think is just about right? Let me point out a couple of things. This is to be strictly combat weapon. No utility as a tool is expected. It should be as sharp as your best kitchen knife or you newest Buck pocket knife. Whatever else it might be, those are the essential requirements. We will assume away any issues with the scabbard. I don't know what should be expected of a guard. Some swords had minimal handguards, others more enveloping. At least the handguard should prevent the hand from coming into contact with the razor sharp blade that we have specified. The grip may be more important and should be comfortable and non-slip. These days we could even hope for an adaptable grip like some handguns offer (interchangeable grip panels). All of those things make up the wish list. What can we buy, now that we have saved up our $225 (our defense budget)? There seem to be a fair number of swords that are highly practical, although we might have to nudge the price limit a little higher. Cold Steel is the first place to look. Keeping things generic, though, but still with things actually available, the first thing that comes to mind is a WWII Japanese NCO sword. The short comings are that it may not be the best thruster around but everything else is on the money. An original will set you back a little more, though. I did own one in my youth and although it seemed heavy to me at the time, it was everything you could ask for. You wouldn't want to do anything to an original but with a reproduction you could get the blade treated with something to make it less reflective and weatherproof. It even has a short blade. Other Japanese swords come to mind but that one is the most practical one, so you might as well start there. The biggest shortcoming was the weight of the scabbard but it was certainly stout. Another good possibility is a modern (meaning pre-WWII, post Civil War) naval cutlass. Again about all that might be done is to get a modern finish on everything. Cold Steel did that but they went for a long blade on one version. We all have their own ideas. The US Army officer's sword/saber is another good starting point. Cold Steel (who else?) supposedly make a good one but it needs to be toned down a little with a modern finish and the scabbard would have to have a sleeve. In fact, it may be the quickest of all of these. Any other ideas? Matt Easton did a video about what sorts of edged were favoured during the era when swords has more use in the military. Not everyone preferred the smooth razor sharp edge. Many preferred a more jagged "almost serrated/saw like" edge produced by sharpening with a file, as it made cutting through fabrics easier. Some preferred convex so they were less likely to roll when cutting through bone. And lastly, some also did prefer the razor edge. Just adding this cause I'm pointing out that there isn't just one specific edge that's been favoured in history, even if forum hive minds would rather have us believing otherwise Not disagreeing. Just saying
|
|