Innovative New Moisture Control?
May 22, 2016 12:10:01 GMT
Post by Deleted on May 22, 2016 12:10:01 GMT
LET ME START BY WARNING THAT THIS POST IS COMPOSED OF CHEMISTRY AND IS VERY LONG. THIS IS JUST MY OPINION AND IS A THEORY, SO CORRECT ME WHERE POSSIBLE BUT DO NOT TRY TO WAGE A WAR AGAINST ME ON THIS BASIS.
The inspiration for this came from my experimentation to look into a technique that was mentioned in a thread on our very own SBG Forum, in Sword Training Techniques. The experiment will be posted under the same category. The original thread upon which the experiment was based was End him rightly...? Pommel throwing in Gladitoria MS KK5013. The experiment is (EXPERIMENT HYPERLINKED HERE).
Onwards to the purpose of this thread…………………
Well, as every sword lover knows, swords require EXTREME care. I for one prefer swords as an extension to my own self and to my expression once they are unsheathed. Although I have never practiced Wai Kru while training in Krabi Krabong and Muay Boran as it is intended to be performed (It has parts to respect the ancient Thai gods, which I could only imitate but not do whole-heartedly due to my own religious stance. But I hold no grudges to any view on this topic and no offense is meant. Even my Kruu understood the reason and I only performed Wai Kru to learn the moves, so no wars here please). I do not know how any reader might consider their swords, but a sword has the habit of always keeping your attention sharp (no pun intended), by nicks and cuts every now and then..
The greatest enemy to a sword, no matter of what culture or descends, is undoubtedly the ugly four lettered word, RUST!
Before I present what I think is the ultimate solution to this problem, we need to understand Rust.
BASICS OF RUST & THE PROBLEM:
Rust is essentially used to describe the oxides of Iron i.e. hydrated iron(III) oxides Fe2O3•nH2O and iron(III) oxide-hydroxide (FeO(OH), Fe(OH)3). There are several kinds of other such disintegrations on other metals. Although they are erroneously known as rust, they are different processes and will not be described here. For Example, in underwater concrete pillars, the Rebar produces Fougèrite, otherwise commonly known as Green Rust. It is unlikely, however, that you would have to live underwater for days, with no protection from open water, with your trusty sword at your side. The most extreme is where you may have to fight underwater or either you or your sword suffers an unfortunate underwater incident, in which case it is most likely a quick dip or a short soak at best.
Re-aligning back to the path where we were, Rust would consume ANY Iron or its alloy, no matter in what stage (Ferrite/Austenite/Cementite/Graphite/Martensite), no matter what class of steel (Crucible/Carbon/Spring/Maraging/Tool/Weathering/Alloy/Stainless), no matter what microstructure (Spheroidite/Pearlite/Bainite/Ledeburite/Tempered Martensite/Widmanstatten Structures), and no matter what iron-based material (Cast Iron/Gray Iron/White Iron/Ductile iron/Malleable Iron/Wrought Iron). Given enough time, and O2, any mass of iron will completely disintegrate into powder rust.
The equation for general rusting is this:
4 Fe2+ + O2 → 4 Fe3+ + 2 O2−
Before I jump to what I mean to present, you may go through the following if you wish, though it is not mandatory and is only there to fill the gluttony of a few who, like myself, crave knowledge in all forms and are not afraid or disappointed of their own inquisitiveness:
1. Rust Prevention
2. Rust Removal
We generally do not allow the above reaction from occurring when we use oils, waxes etc. This provides a barrier to the oxygen. However, have you never wiped the dust and MOISTURE off the blade beforehand? Indeed you have (if you still have swords remaining), probably with some alcohol, since that allows perfect drying to occur. And you regularly re-oil the blades, mostly to keep the oil clean and to prevent small pockets of moisture from forming in the oil, due to cohesive forces between water molecules and hydrogen bonding between water molecules and the hydrophilic/hydrophobic nature of oil which causes the immiscibility of water and oil. These pockets could damage the blade. But the above equation does not satisfy this bizarre shunning of water when relation to rusting, now does it? Here comes the indirect nature of water in formation of rust. First the equations as follows=
+The (Lowry-BrØnsted) Acid-Base Reactions:
Fe2+ + 2 H2O ⇌ Fe(OH)2 + 2 H+
Fe3+ + 3 H2O ⇌ Fe(OH)3 + 3 H+
+The Dehydration Equilibria:
Fe(OH)2 ⇌ FeO + H2O
Fe(OH)3 ⇌ FeO(OH) + H2O
2 FeO(OH) ⇌ Fe2O3 + H2O
It becomes apparent that Water is a CATALYST here, meaning it is regenerated and constantly damages the blade! A drop of water will rust a ton of iron if it does not evaporate. The Acid-Base equations also show why we never leave a blade that is touched unclean, since the water in the sweat and the slightly acidic nature of the sweat contribute to this heterogeneous catalysis.
Therefore, no matter how well-oiled the blade, you have to care for it (maybe if you can afford it, you could get a vacuum cupboard and drive away everything so it couldn't be harmed. But then again, the decrease in pressure could damage the blade at microscopic levels, which will cause a dreadful shatter under repeated use).
So, how do we minimize this care factor? After all, we did oil the blade and cannot keep it in the scabbard/Saya for too long, now can we? We can't tell the air to kill the moisture without using expensive chemicals and equipment, or can we?
MY THEORY AND THE ORIGINATION OF THE IDEA:
One day, while doing the Experiments mentioned at the start of this gargantuan post, I took a break and went to my local University Lab (My Mother's and her Sister's Influence. Mom is a Marine Botanist, Her Sister is an Inorganic Chemist, so these things are trivial to access for me). I asked for a random practical I had been planning for a while, which involved the Grignard Reaction. The reaction is intolerant to water, so we need to remove water initially from the solvent reagents, the rest of the reaction can proceed without interference from water vapor due to the protection by the vapors of the reaction.
The water is generally removed from the solvents by use of solid desiccants e.g., Silica Gel.
The idea came to me when I reviewed my experiment notes 3 hours later.
My idea is simply this: WHY NOT USE A DESICCANT TO PROTECT FROM MOISTURE?
Desiccant are hygroscopic substances that adsorb water, thus moisture is prevented.
We could essentially keep the oiled sword on a stand in a case that had a desiccant lined on the bottom! The oiled sword would be protected for MUCH longer, in a single application of wax or oil. You could even keep your scabbard etc with the sword in the same case, thus preventing molding and warping of say, wooden scabbards due to water absorption!
Best Part? The desiccant is lying in the boxes your shoes came in, the medicine bottles with your capsules or tablets in them, the garment boxes from those expensive designers and what-not! Surprised? Where are they? The little sachets, packets or cylindrical containers with the words DO NOT SWALLOW. That's where you would find the desiccant. You can remove it from the packets or just line the packets as they are. The desiccants aren't even toxic in small amounts like a packet or two, and at most can cause dehydration, depending on amount consumed. Hell, the common desiccant found here is Silica Gel, which is inert and non-toxic! That doesn't mean you don't care and keep it within reach of children (what's your sword doing in their reach ANYWAYS!!!)
So, just oil it up a bit after thorough cleaning, put your stand in a special case or a cupboard etc, a small place which is clean and where you can put 15-20 packets at least, evenly spaced and spread, the more the better, and forget about your sword and scabbard etc, for about even a period as long as 6-7 months, and the sword will not be affected! The more the desiccant, the better the protection. Wanna go overboard? Pad the bottom with the little buggers!
A common question that might be in your mind right now, what if it gets really humid and the desiccant is fully saturated? How do I tell I need to replace the desiccant without risking the sword? You could replace it every 2 months, depending on humidity levels in your area (you probably take too much care of your sword if you live in a very humid area). Or you could skip the replacement part for maintenance. The people who make these desiccants for these common things want to be able to tell when too much water vapor is present, to improve shelf life of the products. The gel changes color to either very dark or black etc, so observable color change is the best indicator! Plus, it's Re-Usable, heat in the oven for 1-2 hours at 250 oF, and they are good to go! A word of caution though, some varieties do not change color, they crack or break. Do Not re-use them EVER!
You could even try with a large amount of nails, say, 2 groups of 20 each. Place one group without desiccant near to a window or any place where you have humidity. Place the other group at the same place at a bit of a distance, and wait for a few weeks. The result is in front of you. And you didn't even oil them! (Be careful not to use stainless steel screws, but iron nails. Although stainless steel will rust, it takes a LOT of time and EXTREME conditions)
A Wiki Page for Caution, it quotes:
Silica gel is non-toxic, non-flammable, and non-reactive and stable with ordinary usage. It will react with hydrogen fluoride, fluorine, oxygen difluoride, chlorine trifluoride, strong acids, strong bases, and oxidizers. Silica gel is irritating to the respiratory tract and may cause irritation of the digestive tract, and dust from the beads may cause irritation to the skin and eyes, so precautions should be taken. Crystalline silica dust can cause silicosis but synthetic amorphous silica gel is indurated, and so does not cause silicosis.
So, used Silica IS dangerous for CONSUMPTION!
Let me know what you guys think!
The inspiration for this came from my experimentation to look into a technique that was mentioned in a thread on our very own SBG Forum, in Sword Training Techniques. The experiment will be posted under the same category. The original thread upon which the experiment was based was End him rightly...? Pommel throwing in Gladitoria MS KK5013. The experiment is (EXPERIMENT HYPERLINKED HERE).
Onwards to the purpose of this thread…………………
Well, as every sword lover knows, swords require EXTREME care. I for one prefer swords as an extension to my own self and to my expression once they are unsheathed. Although I have never practiced Wai Kru while training in Krabi Krabong and Muay Boran as it is intended to be performed (It has parts to respect the ancient Thai gods, which I could only imitate but not do whole-heartedly due to my own religious stance. But I hold no grudges to any view on this topic and no offense is meant. Even my Kruu understood the reason and I only performed Wai Kru to learn the moves, so no wars here please). I do not know how any reader might consider their swords, but a sword has the habit of always keeping your attention sharp (no pun intended), by nicks and cuts every now and then..
The greatest enemy to a sword, no matter of what culture or descends, is undoubtedly the ugly four lettered word, RUST!
Before I present what I think is the ultimate solution to this problem, we need to understand Rust.
BASICS OF RUST & THE PROBLEM:
Rust is essentially used to describe the oxides of Iron i.e. hydrated iron(III) oxides Fe2O3•nH2O and iron(III) oxide-hydroxide (FeO(OH), Fe(OH)3). There are several kinds of other such disintegrations on other metals. Although they are erroneously known as rust, they are different processes and will not be described here. For Example, in underwater concrete pillars, the Rebar produces Fougèrite, otherwise commonly known as Green Rust. It is unlikely, however, that you would have to live underwater for days, with no protection from open water, with your trusty sword at your side. The most extreme is where you may have to fight underwater or either you or your sword suffers an unfortunate underwater incident, in which case it is most likely a quick dip or a short soak at best.
Re-aligning back to the path where we were, Rust would consume ANY Iron or its alloy, no matter in what stage (Ferrite/Austenite/Cementite/Graphite/Martensite), no matter what class of steel (Crucible/Carbon/Spring/Maraging/Tool/Weathering/Alloy/Stainless), no matter what microstructure (Spheroidite/Pearlite/Bainite/Ledeburite/Tempered Martensite/Widmanstatten Structures), and no matter what iron-based material (Cast Iron/Gray Iron/White Iron/Ductile iron/Malleable Iron/Wrought Iron). Given enough time, and O2, any mass of iron will completely disintegrate into powder rust.
The equation for general rusting is this:
4 Fe2+ + O2 → 4 Fe3+ + 2 O2−
Before I jump to what I mean to present, you may go through the following if you wish, though it is not mandatory and is only there to fill the gluttony of a few who, like myself, crave knowledge in all forms and are not afraid or disappointed of their own inquisitiveness:
1. Rust Prevention
2. Rust Removal
We generally do not allow the above reaction from occurring when we use oils, waxes etc. This provides a barrier to the oxygen. However, have you never wiped the dust and MOISTURE off the blade beforehand? Indeed you have (if you still have swords remaining), probably with some alcohol, since that allows perfect drying to occur. And you regularly re-oil the blades, mostly to keep the oil clean and to prevent small pockets of moisture from forming in the oil, due to cohesive forces between water molecules and hydrogen bonding between water molecules and the hydrophilic/hydrophobic nature of oil which causes the immiscibility of water and oil. These pockets could damage the blade. But the above equation does not satisfy this bizarre shunning of water when relation to rusting, now does it? Here comes the indirect nature of water in formation of rust. First the equations as follows=
+The (Lowry-BrØnsted) Acid-Base Reactions:
Fe2+ + 2 H2O ⇌ Fe(OH)2 + 2 H+
Fe3+ + 3 H2O ⇌ Fe(OH)3 + 3 H+
+The Dehydration Equilibria:
Fe(OH)2 ⇌ FeO + H2O
Fe(OH)3 ⇌ FeO(OH) + H2O
2 FeO(OH) ⇌ Fe2O3 + H2O
It becomes apparent that Water is a CATALYST here, meaning it is regenerated and constantly damages the blade! A drop of water will rust a ton of iron if it does not evaporate. The Acid-Base equations also show why we never leave a blade that is touched unclean, since the water in the sweat and the slightly acidic nature of the sweat contribute to this heterogeneous catalysis.
Therefore, no matter how well-oiled the blade, you have to care for it (maybe if you can afford it, you could get a vacuum cupboard and drive away everything so it couldn't be harmed. But then again, the decrease in pressure could damage the blade at microscopic levels, which will cause a dreadful shatter under repeated use).
So, how do we minimize this care factor? After all, we did oil the blade and cannot keep it in the scabbard/Saya for too long, now can we? We can't tell the air to kill the moisture without using expensive chemicals and equipment, or can we?
MY THEORY AND THE ORIGINATION OF THE IDEA:
One day, while doing the Experiments mentioned at the start of this gargantuan post, I took a break and went to my local University Lab (My Mother's and her Sister's Influence. Mom is a Marine Botanist, Her Sister is an Inorganic Chemist, so these things are trivial to access for me). I asked for a random practical I had been planning for a while, which involved the Grignard Reaction. The reaction is intolerant to water, so we need to remove water initially from the solvent reagents, the rest of the reaction can proceed without interference from water vapor due to the protection by the vapors of the reaction.
The water is generally removed from the solvents by use of solid desiccants e.g., Silica Gel.
The idea came to me when I reviewed my experiment notes 3 hours later.
My idea is simply this: WHY NOT USE A DESICCANT TO PROTECT FROM MOISTURE?
Desiccant are hygroscopic substances that adsorb water, thus moisture is prevented.
We could essentially keep the oiled sword on a stand in a case that had a desiccant lined on the bottom! The oiled sword would be protected for MUCH longer, in a single application of wax or oil. You could even keep your scabbard etc with the sword in the same case, thus preventing molding and warping of say, wooden scabbards due to water absorption!
Best Part? The desiccant is lying in the boxes your shoes came in, the medicine bottles with your capsules or tablets in them, the garment boxes from those expensive designers and what-not! Surprised? Where are they? The little sachets, packets or cylindrical containers with the words DO NOT SWALLOW. That's where you would find the desiccant. You can remove it from the packets or just line the packets as they are. The desiccants aren't even toxic in small amounts like a packet or two, and at most can cause dehydration, depending on amount consumed. Hell, the common desiccant found here is Silica Gel, which is inert and non-toxic! That doesn't mean you don't care and keep it within reach of children (what's your sword doing in their reach ANYWAYS!!!)
So, just oil it up a bit after thorough cleaning, put your stand in a special case or a cupboard etc, a small place which is clean and where you can put 15-20 packets at least, evenly spaced and spread, the more the better, and forget about your sword and scabbard etc, for about even a period as long as 6-7 months, and the sword will not be affected! The more the desiccant, the better the protection. Wanna go overboard? Pad the bottom with the little buggers!
A common question that might be in your mind right now, what if it gets really humid and the desiccant is fully saturated? How do I tell I need to replace the desiccant without risking the sword? You could replace it every 2 months, depending on humidity levels in your area (you probably take too much care of your sword if you live in a very humid area). Or you could skip the replacement part for maintenance. The people who make these desiccants for these common things want to be able to tell when too much water vapor is present, to improve shelf life of the products. The gel changes color to either very dark or black etc, so observable color change is the best indicator! Plus, it's Re-Usable, heat in the oven for 1-2 hours at 250 oF, and they are good to go! A word of caution though, some varieties do not change color, they crack or break. Do Not re-use them EVER!
You could even try with a large amount of nails, say, 2 groups of 20 each. Place one group without desiccant near to a window or any place where you have humidity. Place the other group at the same place at a bit of a distance, and wait for a few weeks. The result is in front of you. And you didn't even oil them! (Be careful not to use stainless steel screws, but iron nails. Although stainless steel will rust, it takes a LOT of time and EXTREME conditions)
A Wiki Page for Caution, it quotes:
Silica gel is non-toxic, non-flammable, and non-reactive and stable with ordinary usage. It will react with hydrogen fluoride, fluorine, oxygen difluoride, chlorine trifluoride, strong acids, strong bases, and oxidizers. Silica gel is irritating to the respiratory tract and may cause irritation of the digestive tract, and dust from the beads may cause irritation to the skin and eyes, so precautions should be taken. Crystalline silica dust can cause silicosis but synthetic amorphous silica gel is indurated, and so does not cause silicosis.
So, used Silica IS dangerous for CONSUMPTION!
Let me know what you guys think!