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Post by 1776 on Apr 28, 2016 2:16:25 GMT
Hello, My bare blade has not arrived yet (will arrive tomorrow though), but I was looking to get some advice on how to sharpen the blade. I bought this blade. I have files, a belt sander, a grinder, a couple random wet stones, and an old used (don't know how good or bad) steel. I've used the steel to keep my Spyderco folding knife sharp for a year now. And I've always used the files on my scythe and axes. I prefer to do things by hand, not with power tools. But if power tools are what is needed... than I guess I'll use them. Anyways, I heard the Windlass bare blades come pretty dull. And I've been wondering about knife, sword and axe sharpening for a while now. So I was wondering, I've heard about the Accusharp. Any good? Better or worse than a file? I've heard about using a belt sander. Good for knives? In general I'm just needing some advice on what to use to sharpen my blades (axes, knives, swords). I would really like to not throw any money at the problem, but if I must I must. The file always worked on my axes, never tried it on my knives though or tried it on a sword. Sorry about the disjointed text, my thoughts kinda ramble. Thanks 1776
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Apr 28, 2016 7:35:36 GMT
A file should work well. Clamp the blade down, with the edge just past the side of what you clamp it onto. File, then the other side. For a sword (which has a much longer blade), draw filing along the edge is the main thing. This might be a bit short for that.
After filing, then a stone (and/or sandpaper (wet-and-dry silicon carbide paper) and block). If the edge it starts with is close enough, then you can skip the filing.
An accusharp would work, if you're happy with an accusharp edge.
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Post by MOK on Apr 28, 2016 13:58:59 GMT
I used to start the edge on my Windlasses with an accusharp, but found out it was ultimately more work to clean up the resulting ugly mess than it was to do the whole thing with files right from the start. Accusharps are good for disposable knives. Don't use them on swords, axes, or any kind of blade that you actually like and want to keep. A slack belt sander like this is pretty great for swords if you work with them a lot. I think it still pays off to start with hand tools, because they're harder to make irrepairable mistakes with than power tools, so you get more room for error while you're learning. (Plus it's more fun! Or maybe that's just me.)
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pgandy
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Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Apr 28, 2016 16:10:53 GMT
You are probably going to get a variety of answers on this one. Personally I use several methods and usually on a single blade depending on what I want at the immediate moment. I don’t have electrical tools due to the import expense of the tool then the belts as needed for replacement. Depending on how much metal I wish to remove I may or may not use an AccuSharp. If I do it is ONLY to knock off corners for a quicker start. I never even come close to a final edge with an AccuSharp. Whether starting with an AccuSharp or not I usually use a whetstone with oil going the length of the blade for shaping. It is helpful at this point to clamp the blade down. Once I get things about like I want I switch to wet/dry paper beginning with 220 grit, again with oil. In fact I use a light oil throughout the entire process, menos the AccuSharp. I may put the paper on a flat surface using a slightly compressible backing such as a mouse pad and move the blade, or I may use a block with a compressible material depending and move the block. After I switch to paper I make my strokes toward the edge as opposed to the length of blade. Once the edge is sharp I begin using progressively finer paper. I find it helpful to change the direction of the strokes when I change grits such as 90° to the edge with 220 grit then change to say 60° with 340 paper. I continue in that direction until all marks from the 220 paper disappear. At the point I go to 400 paper and back to the 90° direction. This allows me to know where I am in the process. I progressively use finer paper until I get the degree of polish that satisfies me. Be prepared to use patience and don’t consider this an one evening’s project. There are other techniques that work well if you will accept a secondary bevel such as with Arkansas stones, ceramic, and diamond sharpeners for example. And ya, a file will work. Much depends on your patience and what you will accept. Good luck.
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Post by 1776 on Apr 29, 2016 20:31:02 GMT
Thanks for the answers guys! I'll try them out.
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