|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Jan 2, 2016 20:22:27 GMT
As long as you build a small enough area insdie the pit using fire bricks you will be fine. A hair dryer will work just fine. Look up coffe can gas forge they work real well for small knives. I used one starting out to forge and heat treat knives. if you want you could do up to 12in in one.
If you really want I could rough cut out and heat treat you some blades for a small price. Then all you would have to do is grind in the bevel. Grinding a already heat treated blade is just fine as long as you don't let it get to hot. I do it all the time alot of the top makers do. I find it easier to grind a already heat treated blade.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2016 20:30:27 GMT
Thanks for the awesome offer ldriggers. Thats very kind of you. I might just take you up on that offer . while I am at it, I might snag one of your falcatas once they go up for sale
|
|
Mikeeman
Member
Small Business Operator
Posts: 2,904
|
Post by Mikeeman on Jan 2, 2016 20:34:00 GMT
^ Told ya these guys could tell ya more. Personally, I prefer to grind on un-hardened steel, but that's mainly because I like using files. I find them a lot easier to control than grinders. The only time I really mess with hardened steel is for the final polish. I like to do everything else before that. Plus, it's a little easier on my grinding belts if I grind the steel while it's soft. Everybody has different preferences. Find what works best for YOU. And the best way to do that is to just make stuff. It doesn't have to be perfect, just do the best you can. No matter how good or bad it is, you'll learn from it and do it better next time.
|
|
|
Post by chrisperoni on Jan 3, 2016 4:12:20 GMT
Love this stuff!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2016 23:41:18 GMT
I couldn't find a store with 1080 or 1084 in stock, so I ordered some 5160 and 1095 steel to experiment and practice heat treating on. I plan to try quenching in canola oil and brine
|
|
Mikeeman
Member
Small Business Operator
Posts: 2,904
|
Post by Mikeeman on Jan 7, 2016 0:01:12 GMT
Just FYI, 1095 is a super semprini to quench. I would definitely use oil on it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2016 0:31:14 GMT
Thanks good idea
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2016 0:34:39 GMT
I am going to make 4 or 5 small blades to test and see what works best. If all goes well, I may end up kydexing them and selling them, if anyone wants a blade made by a noob. My plan is to start with a simple kiridashi. It only requires some shaping and minimal grinding, so it shouldn't be heartbreaking if it cracked while quenching
|
|
|
Post by freq on Jan 7, 2016 3:49:37 GMT
so it shouldn't be heartbreaking if it cracked while quenching wanna bet ;) it never gets less annoying when it happens
|
|
Mikeeman
Member
Small Business Operator
Posts: 2,904
|
Post by Mikeeman on Jan 7, 2016 16:18:01 GMT
so it shouldn't be heartbreaking if it cracked while quenching wanna bet it never gets less annoying when it happens Agreed. Like my FiSBG submissions. I was ultra disappointed.
|
|
|
Post by Uncle Mack on Jan 10, 2016 2:38:37 GMT
Lots of great info here, fellas... Thank you for sharing.
I've been slowly working on a few knives and machetes, waiting until I had a batch to heat treat.
So here is my question: any downside to having the HT done for you? I'm fortunate to live near Detroit with quite a few heat treat companies. I talked with a guy (he came recommended) who will run steel through the HT and temper for $1.50/lb with no minimum (and a one week turn around time). I explained the application, what steel I used and my desired hardness. He even talked about how they spot warped steel and how they address it... Thoughts on DIY vs. having it done?
|
|
|
Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Jan 10, 2016 4:02:36 GMT
There is no downside to having HT done for you by reputable HT companies. 1) If you send in bulk the price is cheap for the service you're getting 2) Reputable HT companies do a cryo treatment which 2x, 3x, or 4x the performance of the steel (depending on the particular steel) 3) Have temperature controlled process
BUT...... 1) If you send one knife at a time then it might be cheaper to do it yourself 2) If you want total control of the hamon process you might want to do it yourself 3) Most HT companies have blade length limitations
I know of three HT companies (Peters, Texas Knife, and Buck). Neither one will HT a katana length blade with clay in a fast oil. Actually Peters' limit is a 24" cutting edge (for oil hardening), Texas knife only HT stainless steel, and Buck has a length limitation of 12" (for oil hardening). Peter's has a 50" total length for air hardening and Buck 36" long for air hardening.
|
|
|
Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Jan 10, 2016 4:04:24 GMT
... I'm fortunate to live near Detroit with quite a few heat treat companies. I talked with a guy (he came recommended) who will run steel through the HT and temper for $1.50/lb with no minimum (and a one week turn around time). I explained the application, what steel I used and my desired hardness. He even talked about how they spot warped steel and how they address it... Thoughts on DIY vs. having it done? Can you share here or PM me the names and contacts for the few HT companies? Thanks At this time I don't know anyone that can/will HT katana sized blades in oil/water/brine.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2016 13:38:36 GMT
How do I build a ground forge? What's the best set up for one? I will be using this to heat treat in only. Also, what can I use to hold quenching fluid? where can I get a good set of tongs to use during heat treat? Thanks, Bennett
|
|
|
Post by Uncle Mack on Jan 10, 2016 21:54:43 GMT
... I'm fortunate to live near Detroit with quite a few heat treat companies. I talked with a guy (he came recommended) who will run steel through the HT and temper for $1.50/lb with no minimum (and a one week turn around time). I explained the application, what steel I used and my desired hardness. He even talked about how they spot warped steel and how they address it... Thoughts on DIY vs. having it done? Can you share here or PM me the names and contacts for the few HT companies? Thanks At this time I don't know anyone that can/will HT katana sized blades in oil/water/brine. You bet! I just have to go there tomorrow. I drive by it 3x a week and stopped one day just out curiosity and asked about HT. I can't remember the name of the place. I do remember him saying they could HT up to something crazy like 60" pieces. I guess it makes sense; that is long for our needs but not for the auto industry/manufacturing.
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Jan 12, 2016 6:42:07 GMT
Tell you what I will do I will sale you my old coffee can forge. It has a new liner and coating for $10.00 plus 10.00 shipping. You will have to supply you own propane torch, the right torch will set you back $50.00. I forged a lot of knives using this forge.
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Jan 12, 2016 7:56:04 GMT
As far as tong go just use pliers, channel locks and locking pliers staritng out.
Quench just what ever is big enough for you blade length. A 5 gal plastic bucket will be fine, just don't touch the sides. Starting out I used a plastic coffee can, a 1 gal metal bucket and a 5 gal plastic bucket.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2016 11:26:58 GMT
Wow! That's a great offer fallen! Thank-you. Where would you recommend I get a propane torch from?
|
|
|
Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Jan 13, 2016 5:05:43 GMT
You will need the Berzomatic BZ8250 torch, it siad Mapp gas but works just fine with propane. Think I got my at Home Depot.
|
|