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Post by freq on Sept 12, 2015 5:20:37 GMT
had a piece left over from a handle off another blade so i decided to try a friction folder here are the results started by chain drilling holes down one side then over the top and part way down the other side then filed out the middle pinned the blade in and ta da friction folder
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Sept 12, 2015 13:04:45 GMT
Pretty cool. I like your peening the pin idea. I guess if it gets a little loose you can peen it a little more. The following four friction folders are the first ones I made (early this year). I used a table saw and a sled to channel out the wood. I have done it two ways, where I stop before the end of the wood, and where I cut a slot from start to end. I call them integrals but I'm not sure if that is the right term. It's tricky making the scales so I tend to design the shape of the blade to match the cut in the scales because I have more control with the blade than the cut. I don't use stop pins because the tab on the top of the blade serves that purpose (full open or full closed). Higonokami style friction folder. Beautiful deep-red Bloodwood and it's an integral. O1 tool steel, Rc 60, 0.11" thick, 4.25" cutting edge, 9.25" open length. Hammered finish on spine, tab, and pivot. Hand rubbed finish blade. Higonokami style friction folder. Unidirectional carbon fiber and it's an integral. O1 tool steel, Rc 60, 0.11" thick, 3" cutting edge, 8" open length. Hammered finish on spine, sides & tab. Polished blade. Charred oak and it's an integral, O1 tool steel, Rc 60, 0.11" thick, 3.5" cutting edge, acid fallout finish. Hand rubbed finish. .
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Sept 12, 2015 13:07:48 GMT
If you don't have the means of cutting out a slot then you can glue two or three pieces together as I did with this one. The "spacer" material is made with two very thin black G10 liners and a slightly thicker white G10 liner. The combined thickness of the three G10 liners is slightly thicker than the blade to provide the needed gap. O1 tool steel, 0.11" thick, desert ironwood burl, 3" cutting edge. It's a cross between a friction folder and a higonokami. Black and white G10 liners. Hammered finish on the blade, spine, tab, and pivot. .
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Post by freq on Sept 14, 2015 10:56:57 GMT
awesome work there digs makes mine look real rough by comparison.lol how did you do the tab on top of the blade soldered or welded im guessing? as for peening it kind of had to as notch was a bit rattly but worked out ok, hasnt got a stop pin in it either i made the back slot into the stop pin
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Sept 14, 2015 11:39:40 GMT
awesome work there digs makes mine look real rough by comparison.lol how did you do the tab on top of the blade soldered or welded im guessing? as for peening it kind of had to as notch was a bit rattly but worked out ok, hasnt got a stop pin in it either i made the back slot into the stop pin I started with >0.3" thick bar of O1 and ground the blade out but left the "tab" part untouched. It's very wasteful as 66% of the steel is lost but I don't know how to solder or weld. And I only started forging a few months ago. I'll post a vid for ya this week. Regarding your first FF, I'm sure yours will clean up nicely with a little more time and effort. I spent a lot of time working on mine. But yours has a nice rustic look as is. The scales look very ergonomic.
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Post by freq on Sept 14, 2015 12:57:27 GMT
rustic thats a nice way of saying rough lol, thinkin this one is gonna stay "rustic" but will try different approach on next one (im sure ill have another go ) might try softer wood than aged red gum that would probably be a good start, as for welding im not that great at it myself but its a super handy skill in this type of hobby, but if you can get away without it more power to ya. look forward to seeing your way of doing things
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Sept 14, 2015 15:18:43 GMT
rustic thats a nice way of saying rough lol, thinkin this one is gonna stay "rustic" but will try different approach on next one (im sure ill have another go ) might try softer wood than aged red gum that would probably be a good start, as for welding im not that great at it myself but its a super handy skill in this type of hobby, but if you can get away without it more power to ya. look forward to seeing your way of doing things Here is a crappy vid I recorded a while ago but never posted to YT because I wasn't happy with it. Best if you play it at 1.5x speed.
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