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Post by 0rion on May 7, 2015 1:12:24 GMT
Making a small gladius for a "behind the shield" 2nd blade (is there a name for this?) I broke off the tang. The metal is from the blade of a snow removal plow. I'm sure its high carbon but not sure hiw high. I annealed it before grinding. Anyway, I've got a 110 welder. Do you think its worth trying to fix or will welding it back together make too structurally unstable for cutting?
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on May 7, 2015 2:50:22 GMT
Nope
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Post by chrisperoni on May 7, 2015 2:53:57 GMT
nope to which part if the question? I'm assuming you mean it's not worth welding, right?
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on May 7, 2015 3:41:34 GMT
Lol. Yeah. welding the tang will throw off the temper and basically render it useless. Esepcially if he annealed it. Unless he went through the entire HT process again, it's probably not gonna work.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on May 7, 2015 4:23:38 GMT
Depends on where the break is, if it's been annealed already he has to go through the hardening and tempering any ways. The tang of a sword really doesn't have to be harden or tempered. Don't see how you could break the tang if you had already annealed the steel.
A snow removal blade will most likely be 4130 or 4140 steel, not a real good steel to make a sword blade out of
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Post by aussie-rabbit on May 7, 2015 12:51:27 GMT
A snow removal blade will most likely be 4130 or 4140 steel, not a real good steel to make a sword blade out of Best described as adequate - by 110 welder I'm guessing you mean a standard arc welder, not a good choice, MIG or TIG would be better, either way you would need to clamp the cutting portion of the blade to a long piece of thick steel to act as a heat-sink, if the sword is short and your work is really good you may get away with it
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on May 7, 2015 13:05:57 GMT
If you know what you are doing with arc it can be did. Really need you see where the break is. But since you said snow remove blade I'm guessing it is fairly thin steel and not worth trying to fix.
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Post by 0rion on May 9, 2015 8:04:57 GMT
Thanks for the info guys. How do I post a pic here? I checked heat treating guide. And 4140 should be normalized before annealing. And then anealed at a lower temp then I did. Plus I hit it cold... Just wanted to do that one last lil tweak! D: Anyway I welded the lil sucker w a .35 flux wire fed. Then I heated it up in the forge to near yellow and forge welded the weld into shape. Then NORMALIZED. Then anealed. Then I ground it. Seems to be one piece again and I can hold it by the tang when grinding. Then I'll harden and quench and temper and sharpen it. Then swing it. I let you know what happens if I live.
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