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Post by Croccifixio on Mar 24, 2015 2:42:31 GMT
I'm currently writing a review of this sword in my spare time, but got a bit impatient with my writing so I'll ask this now. I've read Findlithui's tutorial on making a scabbard, specifically the leather-wrapping part. I had originally planned to do that on this basic scabbard. However, an artist friend to whom I showed this sword told me that I could also try carving and staining the scabbard, since it was quite thick and heavy. He said that the wood is neither soft nor hardwood, and might be a little rough to carve, but that he thought it would work better than a leather wrap (especially since it's already well-shaped and has side-rings for the suspension system). What are your opinions on it? Should I try my hand in carving (I'm decent with designs) or should I just go for Findlithui's leather wrapping method and just put a few risers for the design. Thanks in advance for your insights :)
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Post by Croccifixio on Mar 24, 2015 3:47:32 GMT
Well.... I wrote the tutorial :). If it were me? I would carve that core :). To wrap a core, one really wants to start out with something a bit thinner... leather will just ADD to the size. And it looks like you started out with nicer wood than basic poplar :). Carved cores are not odd... Ernie at Yeshua produces some AMAZING carved scabbards :). Ernie's always an inspiration. In fact, one of his own inspired this custom piece. It's a nice sword but the scabbard is too plain, so I was planning to follow your guide. But if you yourself think the wood's too thick (and honestly, the scabbard is pretty heavy - it's a weapon in and of itself!), then I'll try my hand at carving. At least my friend can help me out with that directly. :)
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 24, 2015 4:05:33 GMT
Carve it for sure. It's got a nice shape to it. I'd slim it down a little bit, maybe touch the bevels a bit to get the weight down some, Then, after you lay out the design you can remove even more to add contour and depth. Pic's make it look like theres plenty there to work with, and for carving; thats better than not having enough. For me it's pretty tough to beat a good wood scabbard.
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Post by Croccifixio on Mar 24, 2015 4:37:05 GMT
I'll show more pics of the scabbard itself. It's pretty thick so I have a lot of material. It will be my first time to carve anything though, so I'll keep things simple. Gonna borrow my friend's dremmel to do that. What kind of wood stain looks best for scabbards?
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Bryan Heff
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Post by Bryan Heff on Mar 24, 2015 11:23:57 GMT
That looks nice...I too would not go leather but perhaps some carving.
I did some very simple carving in poplar before and it turned out pretty nice. Just scroll work really (not carving per say) using a dremel etching bit. I am trying the same thing but this time on an oak scabbard and its NOT turning out so well. Oak I am coming to learn is odd in that it has super hard layers, then much softer, so very different hardness in the grain, what I suppose is the rings. So when the bit is carving along and you hit a ring section , it cuts too deep and just looks off. My 2 cents.
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Scott
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Post by Scott on Mar 24, 2015 11:25:30 GMT
Carve it. please post some pics when you're done. You might want to practice on a scrap bit first if you haven't done any carving before. I'm not sure about stains, but I like to finish wood with nothing but linseed oil. What type of wood is the scabbard made of?
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Post by WEWolf on Mar 24, 2015 18:38:28 GMT
That's a very nice looking scabbard already, the wood is very attractive. I believe with a little carving you could make it gorgeous.
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Post by Croccifixio on Mar 24, 2015 20:34:10 GMT
I'll practice a bit, I promise :) In the meantime I'll be designing/sketching what I'll eventually carve and posting it here.
Bryan, I'll keep that in mind. While I don't know what wood it is, I'll treat it as if it were layered.
I don't have linseed oil right now, but I do have lemon oil and mineral oil. Which one should I use? Or should I just buy linseed?
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 24, 2015 22:02:51 GMT
Just a guess but it looks like maple to me.
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Bryan Heff
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Post by Bryan Heff on Mar 24, 2015 22:08:48 GMT
Just a guess but it looks like maple to me. I agree with Chris. Def. does not look like Oak to me...I can say that with conviction at least.
Maple has a much more uniform grain, the "tightness" of it if that makes sense.
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Post by chrisperoni on Mar 24, 2015 22:11:55 GMT
Just a guess but it looks like maple to me. I agree with Chris. Def. does not look like Oak to me...I can say that with conviction at least.
Maple has a much more uniform grain, the "tightness" of it if that makes sense.
Yup, and it will be very smooth on the face and end
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Mar 25, 2015 1:32:28 GMT
Carve it. please post some pics when you're done. You might want to practice on a scrap bit first if you haven't done any carving before. I'm not sure about stains, but I like to finish wood with nothing but linseed oil. What type of wood is the scabbard made of? Danish oil gives a similar finish but is more water proof.
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Post by Croccifixio on Mar 25, 2015 4:36:49 GMT
I've asked the sellers what wood the scabbard is but they haven't been able to find out.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 25, 2015 13:44:47 GMT
I thought it looked like cherry.
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Scott
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Post by Scott on Mar 25, 2015 13:54:31 GMT
Carve it. please post some pics when you're done. You might want to practice on a scrap bit first if you haven't done any carving before. I'm not sure about stains, but I like to finish wood with nothing but linseed oil. What type of wood is the scabbard made of? Danish oil gives a similar finish but is more water proof. I've heard Danish oil is good, but I haven't used it. So far straight linseed oil has worked for me.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Mar 25, 2015 14:42:46 GMT
Danish oil gives a similar finish but is more water proof. I've heard Danish oil is good, but I haven't used it. So far straight linseed oil has worked for me. Straight linseed works to protect but needs maintenance, Danish oil is a hard drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form. "It can be applied to provide a hard-wearing, water-resistant satin finish, or as a primer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish. It is a 'long oil' finish: a mixture of oil and varnish: typically around one third varnish and the rest predominantly of oil When applied in coats over wood, Danish oil cures to a hard satin finish that resists liquid well. As the finished coating is not glossy or slippery, it is a suitable finish for items such as food utensils or tool handles, giving some additional water resistance." This means a greater resistance to sweat, water etc.
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Post by Gunnar Wolfgard on Mar 25, 2015 15:18:43 GMT
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