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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2008 1:03:48 GMT
So I'm planning on buying some steel and making my very first knife! I’m very excited to do so but I'm not sure of a couple of things. just to give an idea of what type of blade I plan to make I want it to have a sort of kissaki type point and very durable. I plan to make wooden fittings (handle and saya) for it as well kind of like a field knife. So first off for the blade I’m going to buy from admiral steel but they have 3 different types of steel HR 1095, CRA 1095, and HR 1075/80. Which would be best for this project? Next up I want the handle and saya to be extremely durable and I have read that the closest thing you can get to the traditional stuff is poplar which I have at the moment. But is it strong? If not which would you suggest? The blade resembling something like this not so much the fittings Thanks for your time and help!!!
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Post by brotherbanzai on Apr 12, 2008 1:35:46 GMT
Do you mean HR instead of HC? HR means hot rolled, it will have a thin coating of mill scale and CR means cold rolled and will not have scale. However I don't know if the hot rolled comes annealed which is probably what the A in CRA stands for. 1095 obviously has a bit more carbon than 1075 so it could be harder but also more brittle. Higher carbon=better for smaller blades. Lower carbon (1060-1080)=better for longer blades.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2008 1:39:53 GMT
yes HR lol typo
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2008 1:43:00 GMT
HR and CRa 1095 is only hot rolled or cold rolled annealed, same thing if you will be grinding it. It isn't known as a kissaki type tip, kissaki only means tip, you mean a japanese tanto style tip. Poplar will suck for the handle, but be good for the sheath, for a hard user I would go for hickory. The guard on that style knife is very integral to its construction, it works along the same lines as to how a file is secured in the handles, so you might want to think more about construction techniques.
BB, no steel is really inherently more brittle than another, if you leave 1045 fully hardened or just barely tempered it is as equally brittle as 1095 left fully hardened or barely tempered, the only consideration is higher hardness levels, which means you have to temper a little bit more with the higher C stuff.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2008 1:51:32 GMT
my local lumber yard doesn't carry hickory, is oak acceptable? by construction techniques what do you mean? because im still new to japanese style blades the word kissaki has a visual definition to me so i apologise for the confusion. and in that picture i only mean the blade not the handle or guard or sheath.
thanks for the speedy replies!
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 12, 2008 2:07:51 GMT
The pictured handle is the base of a hatchet handle. Thats also what i used for my first knife.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2008 2:20:14 GMT
my local lumber yard doesn't carry hickory, is oak acceptable? by construction techniques what do you mean? because im still new to japanese style blades the word kissaki has a visual definition to me so i apologise for the confusion. and in that picture i only mean the blade not the handle or guard or sheath. Oak is fine, you could find hickory in the form of a replacement sledgehammer handle, BEST source for hickory stock i have found. That type of construction is, the blade's tang is inserted into the handle and pinned, then the guard/bolster is pressed down, the inside is probably an hourglass or semi cone shape, which compresses the wood around the tang, and grips it tight, a very good style of construction, and even though they make it that much stronger and secure, the pins are not even needed. I'd say screw trying to do a tanto, which that blade shape would be, and make that knife instead. You could use it more for like camping and user stuff, more so than a tanto.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2008 2:35:17 GMT
i apologies for the constant onslaught of questions but I'm trying to do everything right the first time. I'm still very new to this i have only done 2 knives and fittings before this using the a sort of tsuka type handle (carving out 2 halves and gluing them together) with 2 pins. they were both strong and i guess by durable i mean that it will last, not that i will use it everyday. also i cant decide whether to get 1/8 thickness or 3/16 which would you suggest?
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slav
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Post by slav on Apr 12, 2008 4:46:06 GMT
Hey there.
I have been using 1095 from the start, and I love it. But the main reason I chose it is that I have been doing hamons ever since I started. 1095 is quite prone to cracking and stressing, so you have to make sure everything is just right (normalized, even stock removal, quench temp, etc.).
I would go with 1/8". I myself have been using 3/16", but I always seem to end up profiling my blades down to about 1/8" anyways, so why not start there? Also typically the bar comes a bit thicker than the stated dimension, so you'd have a little more than 1/8 to play with anyways.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2008 5:10:05 GMT
kk thx guys the order for steel goes out tomorrow!
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Post by brotherbanzai on Apr 12, 2008 14:59:09 GMT
Annealed steel will be easier to grind drill and machine than steel that has not been annealed.
As Slavia said 1095 is more prone to cracking during the quench so you must be very careful with consistency in the design and with your heat treat practices.
Sam, I'm assuming Darkslyde is going to be hardening and tempering his blade (or having someone do it for him). Properly hardened and tempered 1095 will be more brittle than properly hardened and tempered 1075. At about 1085 the metal is fully saturated with carbon, at above 1085 you have martensite + carbides. 1095 will hold an edge better than 1075 making it better for shorter blades. 1075 is tougher (greater resistance to breaking) than 1095 making it better for longer blades.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2008 17:18:51 GMT
OK well I'm getting a mixed message here. i do plan on doing the heat treat myself so which would be the best metal for a beginner?
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slav
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Post by slav on Apr 13, 2008 3:20:31 GMT
If you're thorough and take care, 1095 should be fine. You will probably crack a few blades no matter what steel you use. Go aheand and buy the 6 foot length of bar, it's worth it.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2008 3:46:11 GMT
OK 1/8x1-1/4x72 1095 HC has been purchased thank you guys!!!
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slav
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Post by slav on Apr 13, 2008 3:50:04 GMT
Good choice. Also you're not going to be in nearly as much risk of cracking if you intend to through-harden the blade anyway.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2008 4:01:09 GMT
yea i believe i will start with that for my first one but im sure i wont be able to resist attempting a DH blade eventually! because its going to be through hardened will i need to clay it in anyway?
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Apr 16, 2008 20:19:22 GMT
Good luck Darkslyde. You will do fine I'm sure.
But for F**ks sake read some books on knifemaking!!! They are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO useful!! Read one of those and you'd barely have to ask a single question here. Just do it! Do it do it do it do it do it.
DO IT!!
Custom knifemaking by Tim (or is it Jim, I can't remember offhand) Mc'Creight is a great book. 10 projects from stock removal paring knife to damascus steel dagger. You'll be like a pig in poo with that one.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2008 21:25:09 GMT
No you don't need to put clay it if you are through hardening it, and do what Matt said.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2008 21:29:38 GMT
yes yes ill try to make it to a library sometime soon but until then i guess i will get to be lazy
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2008 23:53:55 GMT
Lack of smiley makes me confused, that is a joke or not? If so, you have a piss poor attitude, and one I will not continue to help if that's the way you think. I am willing to help anybody, but if they can't even help themselves and do a little work on they're own, there is no need. No spoonfeeding allowed.
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