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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2008 13:03:41 GMT
I am fabricating a pommel from scratch for my del tin orcrist blade. 2 questions really. The end of the tang is square, should i grind it round then drill a hole in the pommel blank to fit? Second Should i counter-bore the butt end of the pommel hole to help the peen lock the pommel?
thanks in advance
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 11, 2008 15:07:57 GMT
I assume you do NOT have a milling machine - like me: I generally have the tang say 15mm wide. I'll drill 3 holes, then use a demel to join them, till I have a smooth oval shaped hole. Then I will use the belt sander to sand the end of the tang into an oval section bit by bit, until it just slides on all the way. It can be a slow process. <- Usually used for wheel pommels. You can see pics of that on my Falchion or Knightly.
Alternatively I will have a central hole, and then the other two holes which become oval only go half way through to key the pommel so it doesn't rotate. <- I Usually use for scentstoppers or viking type. (Domed top.) Though works fine for wheel pommel. You can see pics of that on my Leaf Bladed sword. This is also how I did my Dragon's Bane & Wallace.
Either is good. Just remember its easier to sand the tang down than to enlarge the slot once you have a nice shaped slot.
I do not sink the wood into the pommel.
You must have a key slot to stop it spinning.
Have fun.
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Post by brotherbanzai on Apr 11, 2008 15:40:22 GMT
If you are going to grind the peen flush with the end of the pommel after you've peened it then you will need to counter bore the hole in the pommel. Maybe a quick drawing will help. Here's what you want- Tang on the left, see though pommel on right
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2008 17:34:34 GMT
You are correct brenno, i do not have a milling machine, however i do have a heavy duty drill press and a machinest vice. i am planning to slot the handle end of the pommel to fit the tang where it widens out to prevent turning.
Brotherbanzai thats kind of what i thought thanks for the conformation.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2008 20:35:06 GMT
What I did for my proto-longsword, which ends at a rod, was to grind the rod flat to match the planes of the sword.
I drilled the pommel out for the thickness, then used a round chainsaw file on a drill to widen the hole side-to-side, but not at the flats. It was slow going, but fits perfect and doesn't wobble.
I then took a countersink bit to the end to the peen locks in better.
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