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Post by redbeardrob on Feb 15, 2015 4:12:22 GMT
Hello!! I'm brand spanking new here. I just recently bought my first real carbon steel sword. I'm obsessed with Norse history and bought the Windlass Sticklestad sword because of the five star review here at the SWB page. I'm pretty excited about it, and like my love for guitars, I imagine that I'll be buying many more in the future.
First question, I read that it's not good to store your sword in the scabbard. Where else am I supposed to store it? It came with a suede wrapped wooden scabbard. Will it be ok to permanently store it in there if I regularly take it out and oil it?
What kind of oil are all you professional swordsmiths using?
And finally, do we talk about axes and other weaponry here too?
Sorry for all the new guy questions, but I figured the "beginners forum" would be the appropriate place until I can get more accustomed.
Thanks everyone! I'm happy to be here and learn what I can!
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Paul
Member
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,771
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Post by Paul on Feb 15, 2015 4:27:02 GMT
Welcome to the fun house. With storage it is best not to keep it in it's scabbard for long periods. What are you plans for storage, locked away or on display? There are lots for options for display, from tabletop stands to wall mounts. For oil I just use a 3in1 oil. www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sword-care.html
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Post by RicWilly on Feb 15, 2015 4:57:04 GMT
Welcome to the forum, Rob. I keep several swords in their wood scabbards with no real issues. I even keep a few in their leather scabbards, that's a little trickier but I have found it depends on the sword how that goes. I'd just check it every few days at first to see if it's discoloring the sword. If not leave it in there.
I'm no professional but I use CRC Heavy duty silicone spray I get for a couple bucks at the Walmart.
They talk about everthing except politics and religion here. Some can't handle that stuff. LOL
Jump right in and have fun.
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Post by William Swiger on Feb 15, 2015 7:59:32 GMT
Welcome to the forum.
Since I only display my swords and do not use them where I am currently living, I use Turtle Wax polishing compound on mine. Clean the blade with rubbing alcohol and apply a thin coat and buff it off with a cloth. Have never had any rust issues.
I don't store my medieval swords in leather scabbards but like Rick said, if you do, spot check the blade until you are sure the scabbard will not cause staining on the blade. No issue with fiberglass or wood core scabbards though.
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New Guy
Feb 15, 2015 8:57:51 GMT
via mobile
Post by RicWilly on Feb 15, 2015 8:57:51 GMT
To be clear, I don't encourage keeping swords in leather sheaths. I do this with a few of mine but I'm not real picky how they look, a bit of a stain doesn't bother me but rust is another matter. I have kept my Windlass Military sword/rapier in its leather sheath ever since I got it a few years ago with no ill effects. I have found it depends on the sword.
Wood scabbards I have not had any problems leaving my swords in. After all don't the kat guys display theirs in their saya?
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Post by Caboose on Feb 15, 2015 15:59:36 GMT
Just to echo what other people have said, I keep my swords displayed in their wood core scabbards. As long as they are kept oiled (and re-oiled often enough) you shouldn't have a problem.
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Feb 15, 2015 16:09:25 GMT
Welcome to SBG and your new obsession
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Post by MOK on Feb 16, 2015 10:24:07 GMT
Welcome aboard! The problem with keeping swords in their sheaths or scabbards is that chrome tanned leather often contains chemical residues that can oxidize steel, and any organic materials (e.g. wood and leather) can potentially trap moisture which, you guessed it, can oxidize steel. That said, I store all my swords this way and have never had any issues; all my sheaths are vegetable tanned leather, I keep the blades well oiled, and I suppose the relatively dry climate up here helps, too. It shouldn't be a problem for your particular sword, I think, but of course it's always good to check the blade now and then, just so if there is a problem you can correct it before any real damage occurs. For oil, any kind of light mineral oil should do. A very thin, uniform coat is what you want. Spread it over every single spot of the entire blade (and corrodible hilt components, too) and wipe off everything that comes off, using a soft, clean piece of cloth or chamois that you don't use for anything else. Re-apply every time you use the sword, and every few weeks or months depending on climate even if you aren't using it. This article on myArmoury.com might be worth reading, too.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Feb 16, 2015 12:20:27 GMT
Some other options for oil is anything that is good with firearms such as CLP Breakfree, light synthetic motor oil works as well, for storage you need some form of wax type coating, after cleaning with white spirits, paint thinner or other clear solvent apply a coat or two and buff, there are plenty of choices - Renaissance Wax etc. personally I use Johnson's floor wax
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Post by MOK on Feb 16, 2015 19:11:27 GMT
I stay away from stuff like motor oils because you can never tell what they'll do to the leather parts. Pure light mineral oil with no additives is harmless, IME.
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Post by redbeardrob on Feb 21, 2015 15:00:40 GMT
Wow! Thanks for all the replies everyone! Sorry it took me so long to get back here. My toddler keeps me busy.
I'll keep it in the scabbard for now. Being wood, it should be ok. I'm not going to leave it in there all the time. But I'll get it out quite frequently to admire it. Haha.
So where should I go oil shopping? I've seen the 3-in-1 recommended in various places. Home Depot? Or do I need to go to a blade shop?
Thanks again for the feedback!
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Post by redbeardrob on Feb 21, 2015 15:04:09 GMT
Some other options for oil is anything that is good with firearms such as CLP Breakfree, light synthetic motor oil works as well, for storage you need some form of wax type coating, after cleaning with white spirits, paint thinner or other clear solvent apply a coat or two and buff, there are plenty of choices - Renaissance Wax etc. personally I use Johnson's floor wax I've read lots of good things about Renaissance wax. I imagine that a wax would be better for display, but not in the scabbard. Correct? And what if I plan to use the word often? Wax isn't necessarily good for actual use either, it is?
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Post by MOK on Feb 21, 2015 19:57:50 GMT
Wow! Thanks for all the replies everyone! Sorry it took me so long to get back here. My toddler keeps me busy. I'll keep it in the scabbard for now. Being wood, it should be ok. I'm not going to leave it in there all the time. But I'll get it out quite frequently to admire it. Haha. So where should I go oil shopping? I've seen the 3-in-1 recommended in various places. Home Depot? Or do I need to go to a blade shop? Thanks again for the feedback! Well, pretty much any department store should have sewing machine oil (and maybe gun oils in the sporting goods), and every single hardware store worth anything at all carries several products recommended here. And of course, like everything else, you can always find this stuff online, too.
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Post by MOK on Feb 21, 2015 20:02:03 GMT
Some other options for oil is anything that is good with firearms such as CLP Breakfree, light synthetic motor oil works as well, for storage you need some form of wax type coating, after cleaning with white spirits, paint thinner or other clear solvent apply a coat or two and buff, there are plenty of choices - Renaissance Wax etc. personally I use Johnson's floor wax I've read lots of good things about Renaissance wax. I imagine that a wax would be better for display, but not in the scabbard. Correct? And what if I plan to use the word often? Wax isn't necessarily good for actual use either, it is? Pretty much. Ren wax is great for display and storage, but on a sword that sees regular use it's a bit of a pain, at least IMO; oil is just a lot more practical on a "working" sword.
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Post by Voltan on Feb 21, 2015 20:05:06 GMT
Silicone spray is what I use. I've never had any issues with rust.
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pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Feb 22, 2015 1:41:05 GMT
As far as storing in scabbards I don’t worry too much if it is wood and not so well sealed as to make it air tight, which I think applies to most scabbards. Leather is another issue as some tanning oils will attack metal. If you seal your blade air tight condensation will get it especially if it is subject to temperature changes. Let it breath.
I live in the tropics, Centro America in fact, where humidity is a problem, along with the rust that comes with it. I find light oils like 3-in-1 or WD-40 work in the short term, but don’t last. I was proud of myself when I was able to bring in some Renaissance Wax but changed my mind after the second rust encounter and no longer use it. Perhaps I used it wrongly by polishing the metal after the wax dried. I have found two things that work great. One is LPS-3, search Amazon. I used it decades back for my firearms collection. At that time it was much like cosmoline that I experienced in the military. It left a dark reddish-brown coating that never fully dried and would rub off on hands, clothing, or whatever, but gave outstanding results. A few years back I was in the US briefly and was able to purchase some that I brought back with me. It comes both in aerosol or liquid form. I use the liquid. They have since changed the formula. It is now a reddish-brown as it comes out but dries to a dry white coating. It is unclear to me if I am suppose to polish after it dries or leave the surface alone. I live it alone. I’ve been using it for two years without one spot of rust. When I say for two years I mean I applied it two years ago. According to instructions it is about time to reapply. The second method is that I use paste car wax. It is much cheaper for me to obtain and I have been using it on my lesser valuable pieces that I use such as machetes for about the same length of time, perhaps a few months longer with no visible rust. I leave this in place after drying as it is most visible and I know the surface is covered.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Feb 22, 2015 2:32:06 GMT
Silicone spray is what I use. I've never had any issues with rust. Silicon spray works well too I just avoid aerosols as they are wasteful and make me cough CRC make a Food Grade Silicone - Non aerosol, protective silicon sprays for salt-water fishing gear is also good if you have a fishing store near you.
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